I agree 110 percent.
Remove bandswitch and associated crap. Remove tank coil for all but 10 meters. Move tap on tank coil for 10 meter position about 3/4 of an inch. Optimizes it more for (upper) 11 meter and lower 10 operation, rather than 11 only amp.
Now you have a really UGLY hole in the front. No matter, here we go with another slick mod.
Remove input bandswitch, and retune it for 11 meters while your at it. I won't explain how, if you don't know, get out of your amp. Now, here's the trick part, remove the bias pot from the back, and put it in the place of the input bandswitch.. VOILA, instant changable bias, front panel control, monoband amp, etc.
DON'T do this for hillbilly joe's amp, or it will be killed quickly. I usually go farther and also put a Grid I meter in with the wattmeter.. This requires another scale, and the switch for the meter mounts in the back, where the bias knob used to be.
Bias knob adjustability is a MUST for the 6 guys using tubed exciters. Any variation in the drive level (especially carrier) must be taken into account, and this makes quick radio changes (from the Eagle to the Tram) easy.
Wanted to add an old mod of mine, if anyone is interested.
I think Black Ambassador still has the first one I did like this. Made it a two piece (seperate power supply) with a HUGE oil filled cap in it... Nice amp.
--Toll_Free
