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Stinger Board Real Output??

Milkman suggested a mod to increase power output,

What should the power be before the mod??

These are my original outputs into a dummy load
input 3.5 watts swings to 6 watts
Amp output carrier only 9 watts
Amp out with 1000Hz modulation 18 watts

Thanks Plumber-G
 
You've got a brick...

The schematic shows the FET's use "zener" to protect themselves but they only last so long then poof.

Buy a fresh set of 4 MOSFET's and install - and be ready to make another trip to the store for any diodes or spare parts that may have caused the failure can cause it again.

Considering you have only 9 watts developing into a load, that last one you have is weak.

Make a choice...put it off to the side and just buy another if they're still around - it's easier...
 
I think since I have it apart I will pull the mosfets and check them out, just to see whats what. New mosfets are about 15 for the 4 and the unit brand new is $49 + shipping from Italy or Hong Kong.
Does anyone know of a better pallet amp to install in a old base station?? I also have a 13 amp power supply to power a larger unit
 
I think since I have it apart I will pull the mosfets and check them out, just to see whats what. New mosfets are about 15 for the 4 and the unit brand new is $49 + shipping from Italy or Hong Kong.
Does anyone know of a better pallet amp to install in a old base station?? I also have a 13 amp power supply to power a larger unit
Either the mosfets used in the amp are 13n10's - or more likely IRF-520N's; but RM Italy calls them 'RM-3'. But they are the same thing as the other mentioned mosfets and will work the same way. In either case, they are about a buck apiece, or just slightly more. These are not high end RF devices. In fact, these mosfets weren't even originally designed for RF use, they were designed for switching power supplies. But some goobers discovered that they do work as RF devices @ 27mhz.

So don't spend more than $5-$7 for four devices. Otherwise, you aren't getting anything better and someone is just scamming you. Just the facts . . .
 
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Hello
As Handy Andy said I have a brick <GRIN>
But this project won't beat me, once I get it working it will probably wind up in the junk bin.
But it is a great learning experience
I replaced the mosfet with IRF530N which is supposed to be the replacement for the IRF520N. Now I have absolutely Nothing, Nanda for output during transmit.

I have 13 volts to the drain of the mosfet, nothing to the gate or source, My thought is that the top three things that would cause this are bad relay, bad tr1 or bad Tr2
I know there is a way to trace the incoming signal and or voltages to find out where the signal or power stops?? I was thinking about trying to get a voltage from the collector of TR1 or collector of TR2 also thought it might be a good idea to try and trace the signal from the input of T1 back to the source with a O-scope?? I am not exactly sure what I would find at those points and could use a little schooling on how to do this.

I have considered using a hammer to make final adjustments but I know how that would turn out

I posted the schematic below
Thanks for the help
Stinger-Board.jpg
 
Never heard that the IRF530 was a replacement for the IRF520.
Is there a link you have that states it works in an rf circuit?

You had a gate voltage at the beginning of this repair. If all you did was remove the mosfets and replace them; then what caused the gate voltage to quit? Did you have the chance yet to double check your work?
 
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Never heard that the IRF530 was a replacement for the IRF520.
Is there a link you have that states it works in an rf circuit?


https://www.el-component.com/mosfets/irf520n

Doesn't say it will work in a RF circuit but says replacement.

I double checked my work and here is the correct voltages
Gate 1.95v
Drain 13.2v
Source 0v

I am measuring with a voltmeter to ground and source is grounded, should have 0 voltage
If the relay was bad the we would have voltages but no output??

Is there a way to test the relay without removing the relay??

Thanks
 
https://www.el-component.com/mosfets/irf520n

Doesn't say it will work in a RF circuit but says replacement.

I double checked my work and here is the correct voltages
Gate 1.95v
Drain 13.2v
Source 0v

I am measuring with a voltmeter to ground and source is grounded, should have 0 voltage
If the relay was bad the we would have voltages but no output??

Is there a way to test the relay without removing the relay??

Thanks
Disconnect the coax and the DC power. Jumper 12 Vdc to the coil of K1 and read the resistance across the contacts, When energized the contacts should read nearly ZERO Ohms,

Coax input to R4.
 
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Disconnect the coax and the DC power. Jumper 12 Vdc to the coil of K1 and read the resistance across them, When energized the contacts should read nearly ZERO Ohms,
Hey Tallman; isn't the freq range unusable for the IRF530? I don't recall. The spec sheets use a 1mhz test and doesn't show max freq/rf; so I don't recall if these devices will even work @27mhz. We know the IRF520 will.

Plumber G:
My advice - FWIW - DON'T quit!
This is a simple schematic and it is a good starting point to learn. You must get down and learn what all the parts are on the board, what the function of each part is exactly, and start to form an idea of how they all work together to what end. But don't quit, since giving up is too easy and you will be rewarded if it works knowing you set it right. No one said you will all get this right away and know it overnight. You may get close to understanding how this thing works and how it breaks - even if you never use it again after you fix it. The next challenge just became that much simpler - regardless if it is a toaster or a radio.

Keep on truckin' . . .
 
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Hey Tallman; isn't the freq range unusable for the IRF530? I don't recall. The spec sheets use a 1mhz test and doesn't show max freq/rf; so I don't recall if these devices will even work @27mhz. We know the IRF520 will.
.
You have to examine all of the parameters like gate capacitance, and rise time will be the most important. The way IR use to number their parts was like the 520 would handle 50 or so volts Drain to Source. then the IRF530 would work with 100 VDC. It was more for the voltage with stand rating. Those changes usually meant differences in response times and input capacitance. Compare the rise times of the two parts. Different Manufacturers will have different specifications for the same part number. IRF will be different from SGS, or Vishay and so on. And sometimes they will vary from batch to batch from the same manufacturer. Also they say some of these readings are typical.
 
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