Texas star 500v Surgery

[Se7en]

so i decided that i was choking my Texas Star Amplifier because i been using a 10 gauge quick disconnect between the amp and 4AWG wire in the mobile. i went to the almighty Fry's electronics in town only to find out 5' of 4AWG wire is $24.00 USD. i called up a local stereo shop and they hooked me up with fine strand (high quality) oil resistant wire 8' of each color black and blue ( no red ). for $5.00 USD im stoked ( i only wanted 2' lol ). so i will post a photo of the crappy disconnect iv been using and the wire Texas star uses and the wire i have. ill keep updates on how its going. currently in the mobile i have, 6' of 4AWG from battery to where amp rests. i was not able to find any Anderson connectors & did not want to wait 7 day to have it shipped. so ill just permanently solder the amp in. after i get the pig tails on this amp.

if your wondering what that plug is on the back of the amp where a (CW key hole, used to be) i added a quick plug for any PC fan to be used. i have a 70CFM fan on there wired to the on off switch. + it helps keep the car cool down there on hot summer days like today.

 

[Se7en]

i left the fuses where they were..... here it is all done.

i hot glued the inside of the wires and out since i dont have any plugs where the wires goes through.

 

[Se7en]

all in all it worked out as i planned. iv gained more amps and it seems to not be starving like it was. There's a local by me that says i put the ground cable in the wrong place and that i should jump each ground spot on the transistors to the ground cable.... i really don't want to mess with the transistors as there is nothing wrong with them but if its true will someone one point it out as to why that should be done and why Texas Star did not do it?

 

[TonyV225]

Its fine the way you have it

 

[loosecannon]

the fuse setup is the biggest thing starving these amps.

bypass the two internal fuses and add your own externally and you will gain more watts out.
made a difference of about 50 watts on my DX400.
LC

 

[Se7en]

in the REAL RF world. 50w more of max output will not see a difference.

amp works great.

 

[mackmobile43]

in the REAL RF world. 50w more of max output will not see a difference.

amp works great.

I've discovered 250 watts pep on a 2x4 by removing all inline fuses, that by itself is 25% more power and it does make a difference.

 

[W5LZ]

mackmobile43,
I once put two watt meters on the output of a radio, both read the same power. That means I was putting out twice as much power, right??
- 'Doc

 

[AudioShockwav]

The way you have it hooked up is fine.
If you are going to run the amp hard at all I really think the fuse holder`s will fail.....regardless if you get that extra 50 or so watts.
I have seen 350 HDV`s stop working because the spring that holds the fuse tight inside the holder heat up and lose temper.
The 500V is two 350`s with two fuse holder`s.
It is a very common thing.
There is nothing wrong as long as you make sure to fuse it externally.
You still have safety protection, and you eliminate one possible future problem that many people run into.
You should be good to go if you address that Issue.

( on edit....I really really would put a grommet around each wire where it goes thru the case)

73
Jeff

 

[AudioShockwav]

One more thing .... the wires that you are going to feed the fan , Run the wires through ferrite core, even if it is one of the split one`s like radio shack sell`s....might save a problem with RF later.

That two pin connector that you pulled out, those thing are notorious for being total crap, take a razor knife and shave the plastic/rubber cover off the part where the wire attaches to the metal pin, if you are lucky and got a "good one" it will be soldered to the pin...most of them the wire is just shoved in and then the plastic is molded around it.
I have had them that you could feel the connector heat up with your hand in use.

73
Jeff

 

[TonyV225]

One more thing .... the wires that you are going to feed the fan , Run the wires through ferrite core, even if it is one of the split one`s like radio shack sell`s....might save a problem with RF later.

That two pin connector that you pulled out, those thing are notorious for being total crap, take a razor knife and shave the plastic/rubber cover off the part where the wire attaches to the metal pin, if you are lucky and got a "good one" it will be soldered to the pin...most of them the wire is just shoved in and them the plastic is molded around it.
I have had them that you could feel the connector heat up with your hand in use.

73
Jeff

Ive got some that are melted!!!

 

[Se7en]

The way you have it hooked up is fine.
If you are going to run the amp hard at all I really think the fuse holder`s will fail.....regardless if you get that extra 50 or so watts.
I have seen 350 HDV`s stop working because the spring that holds the fuse tight inside the holder heat up and lose temper.
The 500V is two 350`s with two fuse holder`s.
It is a very common thing.
There is nothing wrong as long as you make sure to fuse it externally.
You still have safety protection, and you eliminate one possible future problem that many people run into.
You should be good to go if you address that Issue.

( on edit....I really really would put a grommet around each wire where it goes thru the case)

73
Jeff

on the third photo. why was the wire soldered at the back of the fuse holders rather than on top where the wire originally was? are the fuses by passed? i may open the amp back up and remove the fuses i really think there crap and will fail soon would rather do it now than later. and where do i get wire holders for the holes for 4 gauge wire >?

 

[AudioShockwav]

Don`t remove the fuse holders.
If you take the wire that you soldered to the two tabs on top of the fuse holder `s , and move them to the pins as shown in picture #3 that bypasses the fuses.
They provide a good place to attach the wires.
You should be able to get an assorted package of rubber grommet`s from radio shack or any electronics parts store.

73
Jeff

 

[Robb]

Aren't the 'blade' type of fuse the kind that is preferred - after eliminating the old style ones?

 

[Se7en]

ok, so i removed the wire from the top tabs and soldered it where the redwire from the board attaches to. i also removed the fuses since now there by passed. this time i think my solder job looks better . im also going to remove the black wire and re do it. one more thing, couldn't find wire stoppers so what i did is used a zip-tie on the inside and the outside so any sort of tugging (which shouldn't happen) will stop it from putting stress on the solder or board. pics coming soon.