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Trouble with Cobra 2000

Eastside,

Are you using a PEP meter when the watt readings were taken? Just curious.


I do have an asymmetrical modulation mod I have created that makes the Cobra 2000's sound great on the air, without flat topping or distorting. Robb, you have my thanks for mentioning this!


There's a simple transmit alignment you can perform that may get you some more output.

First of all, find a C945 out of a junk radio, and reinstall it at TR24.
Next, make sure TR26 (also labeled a C945) is not cut or removed. If it's cut or removed, replace it.
Also make sure R131 is intact. It's a 10k ohm resistor. If it's cut or removed, replace it. The color bands will be brown, black, orange, gold.

If all of the above components are in place, we can do a simple transmit alignment.

You will need a small flat head precision screwdriver for this, and it has to be either ceramic, nylon, or some type of plastic. It cannot be metal.

If you have one, hook up your power meter, set it to the 10W scale, set the radio to AM channel 20, mic gain all the way down.

Next, locate L45 and L46. They will be located in the back left hand corner of the main board, close to the final section. Key up the radio. With the small screwdriver, GENTLY adjust the slugs in these two metal cans for maximum deadkey.

Next, locate L38. It'll be a larger slug that's just right of the C1969 final. It will have a bigger slot, so you'll need a slightly larger flat bladed screwdriver. Key the radio, and adjust L38 for maximum deadkey.

Over time, these may have fallen out of adjustment, and re-adjusting these a bit can get you some more output, both on AM and SSB.

Let us know how you get on.

If you want info on my asymmetric modulation mod, and other tips and tricks, I'll be glad to share that info with you.

Good luck and happy tuning! :thumbup:


~Cheers~
 
Since you are getting a 2 watt dead key and modulate to 6 watts it really sounds like an alignment issue.
As others have said you will need to adjust the transmitter starting at the mixer.

If you do not have a proper tool to align the coils with you can make one. Never use anything metal to turn the small coils. For one it will break them, two, metal changes the inductance.

Take a round wooded tooth pic and sand it down to fit the slot. After you have the shape right dip the tooth pic in super glue and let dry.
 
When checking the bias...do you set the dmm in ac or dc.....i know these radios were designed to operate both ways?
 
When checking the bias...do you set the dmm in ac or dc.....i know these radios were designed to operate both ways?

just noticed what you posted. the only AC voltage goes to the power supply only.the radio its self is DC voltage. the AC voltage only goes into the large transformer at the power supply.
 
I tried checking the bias and not getting a reading?
 

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Eastside,

Are you using a PEP meter when the watt readings were taken? Just curious.


I do have an asymmetrical modulation mod I have created that makes the Cobra 2000's sound great on the air, without flat topping or distorting. Robb, you have my thanks for mentioning this!


There's a simple transmit alignment you can perform that may get you some more output.

First of all, find a C945 out of a junk radio, and reinstall it at TR24.
Next, make sure TR26 (also labeled a C945) is not cut or removed. If it's cut or removed, replace it.
Also make sure R131 is intact. It's a 10k ohm resistor. If it's cut or removed, replace it. The color bands will be brown, black, orange, gold.

If all of the above components are in place, we can do a simple transmit alignment.

You will need a small flat head precision screwdriver for this, and it has to be either ceramic, nylon, or some type of plastic. It cannot be metal.

If you have one, hook up your power meter, set it to the 10W scale, set the radio to AM channel 20, mic gain all the way down.

Next, locate L45 and L46. They will be located in the back left hand corner of the main board, close to the final section. Key up the radio. With the small screwdriver, GENTLY adjust the slugs in these two metal cans for maximum deadkey.

Next, locate L38. It'll be a larger slug that's just right of the C1969 final. It will have a bigger slot, so you'll need a slightly larger flat bladed screwdriver. Key the radio, and adjust L38 for maximum deadkey.

Over time, these may have fallen out of adjustment, and re-adjusting these a bit can get you some more output, both on AM and SSB.

Let us know how you get on.

If you want info on my asymmetric modulation mod, and other tips and tricks, I'll be glad to share that info with you.

Good luck and happy tuning! :thumbup:


~Cheers~

Tuning L45 L46 L38 really helped a lot...thanks
Its swing about 15 watts on ssb and on am 4 watt carrier swing to 8 watts......i tuned the bias to must out put too....becuz i could not get a reading on my dmm?
 
I tried checking the bias and not getting a reading?
It's not hooked up properly. You have 3 red sockets to choose depending on the type of measurement, and one black socket. The black lead always stays in the black socket.
 
It's not hooked up properly. You have 3 red sockets to choose depending on the type of measurement, and one black socket. The black lead always stays in the black socket.

So the black neg wire stays in the com and the red goes to the 400 mA ?
 
yer right....i just had it set wrong.

I got the bias set now......i got the final bias adjusted at 60 mA as per alignment spec.....but could only get the driver bias to 40 mA....te specs say 30 mA...but 40 was as low as it would adjust.
 
Sounds like it is working much better now.
This radio might get you to learn how to do alignments, because it has responded to some adjustments so far. Did you check r131 and tr26 to see if they are present/unclipped as Xit13 pointed out? Did you look at that link I posted earlier to see what mods may have been done to it?
 
Sounds like it is working much better now.
This radio might get you to learn how to do alignments, because it has responded to some adjustments so far. Did you check r131 and tr26 to see if they are present/unclipped as Xit13 pointed out? Did you look at that link I posted earlier to see what mods may have been done to it?

Yes on the link.....no i have not looked for the mod limiter r131 yet.....but i am familiar with 131

Yes...i am learning.

Yup...131 has been clipped....it is still in there...prolly could solder it back together.
 

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