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Voltage Booster

Apr 26, 2021
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I own a Jeep Gladiator that the average voltage run from about 12.8 to 13.6. I was wondering if there is an external variable booster or power supply to help raise and keep constant. Thanks in advance in helping a novice. I’m pretty good with talking on them and just ok with installing.
 

Modern vehicles control the alternator with the car's computer. It will vary the output to help motor efficiency which causes the voltage to vary from time to time. On some cars, there is a sensor that the positive battery cable goes through. The car audio guys have the same problem but I am not sure what they do to fix it.
 
It’s an RCI99N4 with 8 feet of 8 gauge wire going straight to battery. I know I should know the amperage draw but I don’t.
 
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Is that voltage measured at the battery or at the radio? Walcott recommends 40A continuous, so with 8 foot of 8ga wire, you will lose about 0.43v to the wire.
 
There is a solid state device called a DC to DC converter that can help. They come in various input/output voltage and thru amperage variations. You could also use a two tier system involving a regular 12 VDC to 120 VAC inverter, and then use that 120 VAC to power a converter to 15 VDC.......
Avoid systems which claim to boost voltage by using a big capacitor as they only give you a voltage boost for the first few seconds after you key up the radio !
 
You could also use a two tier system involving a regular 12 VDC to 120 VAC inverter, and then use that 120 VAC to power a converter to 15 VDC.......
Might run into problems with that approach. SMPS's have efficiencies around 85%, and DC to AC inverters should be assumed about the same without spending big bucks. .85*.85=72% efficiency, so now, without even considering how much farther from the battery will be convenient to install all of that, the cables need to be much bigger than they are now just to make up for the loss in efficiency. On top of that, finding a quiet SMPS that plays nice with a typical inverter is a dice roll, unless you drop big bucks on a pure sine wave inverter.

It would be easier to learn about that particular alternator setup (computer controlled smart regulator or a self-contained regulator) and see what it takes to trick it. If it is a smart one with computer control, it might be as simple as a trip to the shop to have the computer reconfigured. That may not even be necessary as there will still be a sense lead coming off the battery, it just goes to the computer instead of the alternator, so the diode approach is still applicable.

First step, determine the type of alternator. What year is that Gladiator? Lets look up the alternator.
 
finding a quiet SMPS that plays nice with a typical inverter is a dice roll, unless you drop big bucks on a pure sine wave inverter.
Agreed. I've spent big money to get RF quiet inverters and SMPS's here, and I've sent more than a few back for a refund when they weren't as quiet as advertised !
I understand about the efficiency of these things too.........

Looking at the original post I'm wondering why 12.8 to 13.6 volts is a problem ? If the wiring is heavy enough and there is plenty of amperage getting to the radio and/or amp that voltage range should be fine.
If the goal is to eek out another few watts from the radio or amp it's a pointless exercise as those few extra watts aren't noticeable on the receive end. So I do wonder if there is really a need to get the voltage higher.
 
That would certainly enable the radio to put out a few more watts, but it will drastically shorten the life of the jeep's battery ! 14.8 volts all the time will boil a battery dry in short order.
It will not boil a battery dry, my F150, Explorer, Fusion all charge at 14.5 - 14.9 volts. The F150 just had a 12 year old battery changed, the last battery in the explorer was 7 years old when changed.
 
Agreed. I've spent big money to get RF quiet inverters and SMPS's here, and I've sent more than a few back for a refund when they weren't as quiet as advertised !
I understand about the efficiency of these things too.........

Looking at the original post I'm wondering why 12.8 to 13.6 volts is a problem ? If the wiring is heavy enough and there is plenty of amperage getting to the radio and/or amp that voltage range should be fine.
If the goal is to eke out another few watts from the radio or amp it's a pointless exercise as those few extra watts aren't noticeable on the receive end. So I do wonder if there is really a need to get the voltage higher.
Well, that answers that. The “boosted” voltage is me thinking about keeping the watts up. I’m obviously no expert but just some things I’ve heard about. I was also thinking it would help keep power to the radio when powering on. When voltage is below about 13.8, it may take a few clicks of the power know to turn on. Thanks for all the info, it has really helped.
 
I'm no auto expert here and today's modern computer controlling may have an effect as mentioned above - you'll have to do the research on your engine - but back in the day at least most engines had a separate Voltage Regulator working alongside the alternator and they were 14V. A radio buddy would replace his with a 15V Regulator ..... presumably available at most auto parts stores. NAPA may be a better dealer for these but may be a common item anywhere.
 

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