You can now help support WorldwideDX when you shop on Amazon at no additional cost to you! Simply follow this Shop on Amazon link first and a portion of any purchase is sent to WorldwideDX to help with site costs.
The Feb 2025 Radioddity Giveaway Results are In! Click Here to see who won!

Reply to thread

Message

Carefully scrape the anode wire clean so solder will stick, extend it if needed to reach through the solder hole in the cap and resolder it. If you have to extend the wire, use a small enough wire so that it easily wraps around the existing one. Otherwise it may come unsoldered when resoldering the cap. Crazy glue the cap on before soldering. Be careful the existing glue in the cap does not place stress on the glass and the wire fits through it easily. If not, open the glue up with a small pick or screwdriver. That tube can be saved.

PS: Your tubes will celebrate their half-century birthday next April! That's according to the 7513 date code I see on one. They still have an appearance that makes full output a possibility. Clear glass and bright white porcelain insulators are an indication they have not suffered from extreme electron bombardment that would have discolored them and made them darker. In the rare event they are weak, they have worked an enormous number of very easy hours.

<blockquote data-quote="Shockwave" data-source="post: 844923" data-attributes="member: 10882">Carefully scrape the anode wire clean so solder will stick, extend it if needed to reach through the solder hole in the cap and resolder it. If you have to extend the wire, use a small enough wire so that it easily wraps around the existing one. Otherwise it may come unsoldered when resoldering the cap. Crazy glue the cap on before soldering. Be careful the existing glue in the cap does not place stress on the glass and the wire fits through it easily. If not, open the glue up with a small pick or screwdriver. That tube can be saved.PS: Your tubes will celebrate their half-century birthday next April! That&#039;s according to the 7513 date code I see on one. They still have an appearance that makes full output a possibility. Clear glass and bright white porcelain insulators are an indication they have not suffered from extreme electron bombardment that would have discolored them and made them darker. In the rare event they are weak, they have worked an enormous number of very easy hours.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Shockwave, post: 844923, member: 10882"] Carefully scrape the anode wire clean so solder will stick, extend it if needed to reach through the solder hole in the cap and resolder it. If you have to extend the wire, use a small enough wire so that it easily wraps around the existing one. Otherwise it may come unsoldered when resoldering the cap. Crazy glue the cap on before soldering. Be careful the existing glue in the cap does not place stress on the glass and the wire fits through it easily. If not, open the glue up with a small pick or screwdriver. That tube can be saved. PS: Your tubes will celebrate their half-century birthday next April! That's according to the 7513 date code I see on one. They still have an appearance that makes full output a possibility. Clear glass and bright white porcelain insulators are an indication they have not suffered from extreme electron bombardment that would have discolored them and made them darker. In the rare event they are weak, they have worked an enormous number of very easy hours. [/QUOTE]

Top Bottom