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Would You Hook Up Your Mobile Big Radio to This?
- Thread starter jdchet
- Start date
What brand/model of truck?
What type antenna system (Single or Cophase)?
How tall & what antenna type (design).
You were parked FAR away from external influences?
Trailer (type) attached?
What type antenna system (Single or Cophase)?
How tall & what antenna type (design).
You were parked FAR away from external influences?
Trailer (type) attached?
Hooked to a flat with a load of drywall.
Reefer trailer parked next to me.
You might soil yourself if you knew what the antenna was........Let's just say I'm not hooking up a big radio to it!
JD
I'd hate to spoil it...
But, we've seen them down at my old shop - they're "multipurposed" antennas and the former Boss wouldn't sell them - they are not meant for power - no matter what one may say...
The one I've also have had the joys of dealing with are the new HIDDEN ones that you can order that come with the rig.
Surprised to see your rig not have one already incorporated in - they are offering Fiberglass cabs with antenna's Sirius and XM, along with new 940MHz CB's - already incorporated into the nose, Cab and sleeper - you just hook up the type of connector, to the type of radio it's supposed to work. Simplifies install.
You know you're Meter shows the "narrowness" the tuned bandwidth is...
But, we've seen them down at my old shop - they're "multipurposed" antennas and the former Boss wouldn't sell them - they are not meant for power - no matter what one may say...
The one I've also have had the joys of dealing with are the new HIDDEN ones that you can order that come with the rig.
Surprised to see your rig not have one already incorporated in - they are offering Fiberglass cabs with antenna's Sirius and XM, along with new 940MHz CB's - already incorporated into the nose, Cab and sleeper - you just hook up the type of connector, to the type of radio it's supposed to work. Simplifies install.
You know you're Meter shows the "narrowness" the tuned bandwidth is...
Attachments
It's the antenna built into the truck. I was surprised at the somewhat decent readings on the analyzer! That little mole on the roof is a satellite radio antenna left by the previous driver.
JD
JD
Unfortunately - UK version was banned since the late 1980's - it's been taken over by Cellular technology...
But the radio did exist...
I was just playing (a little) it was a long time ago...My Dad actually owned one from that era - bought it for a novelty since he was in the service and had friends in the UK at the time.
I had to explain that theirs was FM and it being 934 MHz was already lost to the Mobile Phone.
But the New trucks are going Stealth in Antennas - no more thwacking your way into the drive only to hear a loud SNAP from you trimming their entrance trees, at the same time sacrificing your new Whip to the cause.
Freightliner-brand “hidden antenna” is molded into the composite-bodied cab above the windshield.
HIRSCHMANN “Thin Film” Antenna
Looks like a loop of 14-g fine-stranded wire in Saran Wrap.
A mile on a good day. 1/2-mile most of the time, but I’ve been able to overcome that problem with 75W and a DSP Speaker.
How, you ask?
I wasn’t the one in the Freightliner. Was able to continue to converse up to about 2-miles because that driver could hear me, and I had the ears to hear him.
Audio clarity at his end was good. Just not strong.
No fade, just an abrupt cessation.
Post #111 of the 579 Install Thread shows the Procomm mounts I used on a new model Cascadia with 7’ SKIP whips.
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HIRSCHMANN “Thin Film” Antenna
Looks like a loop of 14-g fine-stranded wire in Saran Wrap.
A mile on a good day. 1/2-mile most of the time, but I’ve been able to overcome that problem with 75W and a DSP Speaker.
How, you ask?
I wasn’t the one in the Freightliner. Was able to continue to converse up to about 2-miles because that driver could hear me, and I had the ears to hear him.
Audio clarity at his end was good. Just not strong.
No fade, just an abrupt cessation.
Post #111 of the 579 Install Thread shows the Procomm mounts I used on a new model Cascadia with 7’ SKIP whips.
.
.
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That's been my experience talking to others using the stock hidden antenna. The PC78 was picking up the "skip goobers" on ch19 yesterday!
JD
Hence the Question mark "?" -
So you know - we have had drivers bring in rigs with resistors on similar sticky's
They're used for in the drop lot comms' - didn't want CB, just the ability to work the Base shack for the required guidance thru the lot. Very short range - some were stuck inside the Window.
These were drivers that used comms but didn't want to deal with mounting and much of the headaches you'd have to deal with so they used these .. similar to a loop terminating resistor ....
See @Slowmovers post
Mid-2018, Ft. Smith, AR. Tanker.
My thread at T-R, 2017+ Cascadia Evolution, covers that install. (Never got to mike5511 trick of mirror-attached lucite ring to steady the whips. Several of us were using PVC due to 100-mph wind load across the Plains).
I ran a Galaxy DX-99v2 + RM ITALY KL-7505
and kept it under 200W. (Radio Carrier sat on passenger seat).
Had a helper so I could angle those 7’ antennas to just under 14’.
Final version had coax running to engine vent (had to remove panel over door hinge area) and bring coax in thru door-wiring cover with a v-cut.
Toroid-ferrite was an early version of a CMC choke.
Memory may be a little off since three years and three other tractors driven since then. That thread written concurrent with use. All 579s after that.
If I could hear them, they could hear me.
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I have the same mount on the way from Bob's CB. Also have 4 ground straps coming from Amazon for door hinges. Already have coax and a roll of heavy duty VELCRO to mount radio on top of dash. Probably going to get power off of fuse box feed. Going to start with my 5' Skipshooter. Might try a 10" riser from a Wilson 2000 I have laying around. I don't think I'll need 7 footers as this truck is a mid roof pulling flatbed. The quest begins anew! Luckily there is a boatload of info on installs in these Cascadias!
JD
JD
Height is Might. Have to get above tractor. To 14’ has worked for me the past 250k miles. Higher the better. Especially if you aren’t going to run cophase.
That thread on T-R is 270-posts.
Recommend you run POS/NEG in split-loom to windshield base then down A-pillar floor and then have cable come up to those fuse panel studs. I had to trim the covers over them “slightly”. Least physical interference all around.
3% Voltage Drop calc = 20A with 10-AWG at 15’.
8-AWG will be slightly better at keeping losses to .04V (I don’t remember what Positive TYPE of fuse I used, may be in that thread. That’ll be the biggest loss).
The WORKMAN TP-8 at the A-pillar is an easy way to hide the install work when radio put away (see Radio Transport Case thread). Think “stub” or “pigtail”. Must keep circuit length short. Otherwise using fuse panel for POS/Neg means a 25’ circuit. And 6-AWG to run 20A. Which is not at all easy to work with compared to 8-AWG.
Workman also makes that QD in 10-AWG (TP-8). IMO, how well you fuse the Positive and can keep TTL length short will be the Voltage magic of whether 10 or 8 can be used assuming the QD also used.
Where to ground the Negative is another question. I ran to fuse panel stud, but that’s not ideal (obviously). Can probably get behind A-pillar to hit steel.
I have a big ol’ chunky M-31 snap ferrite I use for 12V at receiver or POWERWERX 12V Distribution. Hard to say it helps in a big way. But the M-61s used on other lines DO seem to help (again, treating both ends of every line).
You “could “ run the coax out thru an unused air line knock-out to take it over to antenna. I use marine cable glands for this.
If you’re going to wind a coax choke at antenna, it ought to be encased in something (tape).
If I’m next in a FL I’ll use the P-E MC-1-50-500 Coax Choke at the feedpoint. But will have to weatherproof them to some extent.
I have the P-E CMNF-500 at the receiver. Both ends of coax treated. Whether or not you’d want to try a Bandpass filter is separate (needs own ground).
Will want some cable extensions to get power + audio to the W-M Speaker. Velcro speaker base to bin lower edge in front of shock cords over driver left shoulder at its rearmost point, plus (2) zip-tie arrangements around shock cords, pulled tight. It’ll lean out, but not come loose.
This speaker location is almost as important as the speaker design itself. CB radio reception is thus distinct from all other sound (audio). Easier to get the (8) variables set, PLUS the sound from it DOES NOT get lost with both windows open in the rain at 50-mph on the radio with another driver trying to find the receiver driveway entrance.
Any other location leaves too much performance on the table.
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