Here’s a job I’ve put off a while: 1990 35’ SILVER STREAK Sterling Travel Trailer and a competent Eleven-Meter Radio for stationary use.
Part One: It may be I can get underneath the exterior-skin from the interior (double-hull; inner & outer aluminum skin) without cutting at random by removing a flush-mount ceiling fixture. Depending on what I can inspect from there would be which direction from that fixture to cut a hole.
Coax would snake down the interior wall space — hopefully no horizontal crossmember problems I can’t access & remedy from near the floor — and enter cabin behind couch to then turn forward to Radio & Power Center.
Thinking I may use the BREEDLOVE puck mount originally bought for the Dodge. A lay-over with a riser to mount a 102” whip. (I use a telescoping ladder to get on/off roof).
Looking over my stores, I have the sealant to use for aluminum (silicone is verboten), so the relatively minimal opening to make I’m assured of “no leak”. Given location found I don’t foresee problems in getting an antenna mount placed.
There’s a center to this forward area where distance to bow + starboard + port vertical walls would be close to the same. The rearward ten feet features a roof vent which opens via tilt. The antenna could lay across it for travel without affecting its operation (pad + hook).
Part Two: Is the rest of the installation for which I see no reason to start a second thread.
Specifically, how to set power. RVs have an unusual electrical system in that they’ll run many demand-items on either 12V (deep cycle pair) or 120V from shore power.
A PROGRESSIVE DYNAMICS 45A converter was an early change I made after purchase. It’s mounted forward under the 12/120 breaker panel and initial thought is that I’d run power from the deep-cycle pair to the radio/amp combo.
On a vertical rise of three feet with a one foot offset are the breaker panel, and converter under false cabinetry atop which will be Radio/Amp. Run to BATT pair is forward a few feet to the trailer tongue.
Don’t know yet if this is a good idea. I may need to use a separate power supply and run a dedicated power cord separate from the trailer wiring altogether (My trailer is set for 30A service).
I may try what I figure will be The Trailer Radio (Galaxy DX-99v2) by itself or with an RM ITALY KL-203. I’d prefer to use the KL-7505v (30A fuse), but that may be pushing against luck with the current components.
I need to re-read the AIRFORUMS, “Ham Radio in an A/S”, thread and associated to get a better idea about best practice for power, generally. QRZ and wherever else. (Suggestions?)
I’ve ideas for an antenna farm on the roof and a variety of radio types. Other antennas separate from the vehicle are likeliest for big boy stuff.
A 75A power supply with dedicated shore-power wiring is a separate set of problems I’ll not address at present. Bigger radios and amps stuff.
Thus:
1). An AM/SSB rig with some fire in the wire to a quarter-wave vertical whip is the thing for now.
2). Q first up is power via deep cycle trailer batteries where a 45A converter is present to keep them charged up. Limitations? Good idea or bad?
Your experience and advice is hereby solicited. Thanks
.
Part One: It may be I can get underneath the exterior-skin from the interior (double-hull; inner & outer aluminum skin) without cutting at random by removing a flush-mount ceiling fixture. Depending on what I can inspect from there would be which direction from that fixture to cut a hole.
Coax would snake down the interior wall space — hopefully no horizontal crossmember problems I can’t access & remedy from near the floor — and enter cabin behind couch to then turn forward to Radio & Power Center.
Thinking I may use the BREEDLOVE puck mount originally bought for the Dodge. A lay-over with a riser to mount a 102” whip. (I use a telescoping ladder to get on/off roof).
Looking over my stores, I have the sealant to use for aluminum (silicone is verboten), so the relatively minimal opening to make I’m assured of “no leak”. Given location found I don’t foresee problems in getting an antenna mount placed.
There’s a center to this forward area where distance to bow + starboard + port vertical walls would be close to the same. The rearward ten feet features a roof vent which opens via tilt. The antenna could lay across it for travel without affecting its operation (pad + hook).
Part Two: Is the rest of the installation for which I see no reason to start a second thread.
Specifically, how to set power. RVs have an unusual electrical system in that they’ll run many demand-items on either 12V (deep cycle pair) or 120V from shore power.
A PROGRESSIVE DYNAMICS 45A converter was an early change I made after purchase. It’s mounted forward under the 12/120 breaker panel and initial thought is that I’d run power from the deep-cycle pair to the radio/amp combo.
On a vertical rise of three feet with a one foot offset are the breaker panel, and converter under false cabinetry atop which will be Radio/Amp. Run to BATT pair is forward a few feet to the trailer tongue.
Don’t know yet if this is a good idea. I may need to use a separate power supply and run a dedicated power cord separate from the trailer wiring altogether (My trailer is set for 30A service).
I may try what I figure will be The Trailer Radio (Galaxy DX-99v2) by itself or with an RM ITALY KL-203. I’d prefer to use the KL-7505v (30A fuse), but that may be pushing against luck with the current components.
I need to re-read the AIRFORUMS, “Ham Radio in an A/S”, thread and associated to get a better idea about best practice for power, generally. QRZ and wherever else. (Suggestions?)
I’ve ideas for an antenna farm on the roof and a variety of radio types. Other antennas separate from the vehicle are likeliest for big boy stuff.
A 75A power supply with dedicated shore-power wiring is a separate set of problems I’ll not address at present. Bigger radios and amps stuff.
Thus:
1). An AM/SSB rig with some fire in the wire to a quarter-wave vertical whip is the thing for now.
2). Q first up is power via deep cycle trailer batteries where a 45A converter is present to keep them charged up. Limitations? Good idea or bad?
Your experience and advice is hereby solicited. Thanks
.