You may have seen the "wacky" project with a Bump-Bump roger beep-in-a-box. Might never build another of those.
This one is a bit less wacky. Have enough parts to build six of these.
Nearly all of them are already promised, so that may be all of them that ever get built. Not trying to sell them here. Not today, anyway.
Depends on how expensive they are to build. Once I have a record of the labor we spent to make six of them I'll have a way to decide.
The first one always takes a lot more time, since you're working out where to put things and how best to fabricate stuff. Besides, I don't like selling unhatched chickens. Bad juju.
This toy plugs into the transmitter socket of a Browning receiver and an external transmitter of your choice.
Why? Several possible reasons. Browning transmitters get more expensive to restore every year. The 'ping' is inside the receiver, not the transmitter.
People have asked for this trick off and on for decades. This is not the first incarnation, but the result of lessons learned from the previous attempts. The first version, circa 1999 had two coax pigtails on it, and a socket for the antenna coax.
Too clumsy. Needed its own wall-wart for power. Nice try.
Next attempt was to install the whole thing inside the Browning receiver. More compact, but a lot of trouble to install. And using an original Browning transmitter required setting a switch for 'factory' or 'other' type transmitter.
This one is powered by the receiver. You have to add ONE black wire (or the color of your choice) to pin # 3 of the transmitter socket. This wire lets the adapter 'borrow' the 6.3-Volt AC heater power from the receiver. No more wall wart.
This has one additional advantage, simplicity. Turn OFF the Browning receiver, and the box becomes a barrel connector. If your external transmitter is a transceiver, like a Cobra 29, a Yaesu FT-101 or a RCI2995, it will now be connected to the antenna all the time.
Turn on the Browning receiver and the relays inside the box go "click", and the green LED comes on. The antenna is now connected to the Browning's antenna socket. The external-transmitter radio gets connected to the antenna only when you key the mike. The green LED goes dark while you're keyed and the red LED tells you that it's working this way.
And if you fancy using the factory Browning transmitter the normal way, just unplug this toy and hook up the stock transmitter the normal way.
Shot more pics of the assembly process, but this post is already getting long.
Time to write up a "how to" with the schemo and parts list. You'll probably have one sooner by just building your own than waiting for us to build some and market them.
73
This one is a bit less wacky. Have enough parts to build six of these.
Nearly all of them are already promised, so that may be all of them that ever get built. Not trying to sell them here. Not today, anyway.
Depends on how expensive they are to build. Once I have a record of the labor we spent to make six of them I'll have a way to decide.
The first one always takes a lot more time, since you're working out where to put things and how best to fabricate stuff. Besides, I don't like selling unhatched chickens. Bad juju.
This toy plugs into the transmitter socket of a Browning receiver and an external transmitter of your choice.
Why? Several possible reasons. Browning transmitters get more expensive to restore every year. The 'ping' is inside the receiver, not the transmitter.
People have asked for this trick off and on for decades. This is not the first incarnation, but the result of lessons learned from the previous attempts. The first version, circa 1999 had two coax pigtails on it, and a socket for the antenna coax.
Too clumsy. Needed its own wall-wart for power. Nice try.
Next attempt was to install the whole thing inside the Browning receiver. More compact, but a lot of trouble to install. And using an original Browning transmitter required setting a switch for 'factory' or 'other' type transmitter.
This one is powered by the receiver. You have to add ONE black wire (or the color of your choice) to pin # 3 of the transmitter socket. This wire lets the adapter 'borrow' the 6.3-Volt AC heater power from the receiver. No more wall wart.
This has one additional advantage, simplicity. Turn OFF the Browning receiver, and the box becomes a barrel connector. If your external transmitter is a transceiver, like a Cobra 29, a Yaesu FT-101 or a RCI2995, it will now be connected to the antenna all the time.
Turn on the Browning receiver and the relays inside the box go "click", and the green LED comes on. The antenna is now connected to the Browning's antenna socket. The external-transmitter radio gets connected to the antenna only when you key the mike. The green LED goes dark while you're keyed and the red LED tells you that it's working this way.
And if you fancy using the factory Browning transmitter the normal way, just unplug this toy and hook up the stock transmitter the normal way.
Shot more pics of the assembly process, but this post is already getting long.
Time to write up a "how to" with the schemo and parts list. You'll probably have one sooner by just building your own than waiting for us to build some and market them.
73
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