Had a persistent "flutter, flutter, clop, click" coming from a General Lee radio on receive and transmit.
Sounds like PLL trouble. Sure enough, a quick listen to the 16 MHz PLL output reveals the VCO is the source of the noise. Another quick listen to the 10.25 and 14.01 crystals took them off the list of possible causes. Both are steady as a rock.
Changed the PLL chip.
No change.
Changed the 7310 PLL mixer/offset oscillator chip.
No change.
Then my idiot light began to glow dimly. Put the 'scope onto the power-supply pin of the PLL chip. Sure enough, the 9-Volt supply is flicking up and down a tenth of a Volt or so in step with the receiver noises it's making.
Now my idiot light is on bright enough to light up the room.
Which gets me to the real point of this. When the 2-transistor regulator in this kind of radio works like it should, it works just fine. Seldom any need to mess with it.
When it screws up, I have no desire to find out why. The fix is easier than finding the exact component that's the culprit.
Just remove the PNP power transistor and replace it with a 3-terminal regulator. If you have a 7809T, that will do the job just fine. I only stock the 7808T, so it gets a 7/10 of a Volt boost by placing a diode between its ground pin and the pc board ground. Close enough to 9 Volts.
I had a hard enough time finding the all-plastic version of this chip. Finding the 9-Volt version looked like even more work, so I just stock this one. You can use the metal-tab version if you also come up with a mica insulator, shoulder washer and a bolt that's long enough. The factory screw is only long enough for the plastic-tab part. The all-plastic part saves labor.
The left-most leg of the new regulator is the input. The on on the right is output, and the center leg is ground. Almost opposite of the original part. The output pin is the easiest. Just cock the new part towards the rear, and lay it along the trace where the old transistors's center leg was attached.
The output pin needs a wire to extend it. It's the pin towards the rear of the radio, and the solder pad towards the front is where it needs to connect. The short red wire does this, with a sleeve to insulate the lap splice.
The lighting sucks on these two shots, but it shows the anode (not banded) end of the 1N4001 diode lap-soldered to the regulator's center lead.
The sleeve protects the diode from touching anything it should not. The cathode (banded) end goes to ground near the big filter cap.
Sure enough, the radio's PLL quieted down just like it should with a new regulator.
And if I had 'scoped the PLL's power supply first, it would have saved some money and trouble.
Some days are like that.
73
Sounds like PLL trouble. Sure enough, a quick listen to the 16 MHz PLL output reveals the VCO is the source of the noise. Another quick listen to the 10.25 and 14.01 crystals took them off the list of possible causes. Both are steady as a rock.
Changed the PLL chip.
No change.
Changed the 7310 PLL mixer/offset oscillator chip.
No change.
Then my idiot light began to glow dimly. Put the 'scope onto the power-supply pin of the PLL chip. Sure enough, the 9-Volt supply is flicking up and down a tenth of a Volt or so in step with the receiver noises it's making.
Now my idiot light is on bright enough to light up the room.
Which gets me to the real point of this. When the 2-transistor regulator in this kind of radio works like it should, it works just fine. Seldom any need to mess with it.
When it screws up, I have no desire to find out why. The fix is easier than finding the exact component that's the culprit.
Just remove the PNP power transistor and replace it with a 3-terminal regulator. If you have a 7809T, that will do the job just fine. I only stock the 7808T, so it gets a 7/10 of a Volt boost by placing a diode between its ground pin and the pc board ground. Close enough to 9 Volts.
I had a hard enough time finding the all-plastic version of this chip. Finding the 9-Volt version looked like even more work, so I just stock this one. You can use the metal-tab version if you also come up with a mica insulator, shoulder washer and a bolt that's long enough. The factory screw is only long enough for the plastic-tab part. The all-plastic part saves labor.
The left-most leg of the new regulator is the input. The on on the right is output, and the center leg is ground. Almost opposite of the original part. The output pin is the easiest. Just cock the new part towards the rear, and lay it along the trace where the old transistors's center leg was attached.
The output pin needs a wire to extend it. It's the pin towards the rear of the radio, and the solder pad towards the front is where it needs to connect. The short red wire does this, with a sleeve to insulate the lap splice.
The lighting sucks on these two shots, but it shows the anode (not banded) end of the 1N4001 diode lap-soldered to the regulator's center lead.
The sleeve protects the diode from touching anything it should not. The cathode (banded) end goes to ground near the big filter cap.
Sure enough, the radio's PLL quieted down just like it should with a new regulator.
And if I had 'scoped the PLL's power supply first, it would have saved some money and trouble.
Some days are like that.
73