It occurred to me that someone might complain if I continued my Pride rebuild thread to the point where it becomes available for sale. Seems like the 'for sale' section is where it should move to now that it's finished and ready for a new home.
So here is the final form of the thing. Finally got the "basement" finished, and it's a little too hot for its own good. I'll probably need to dial it back some.
This amplifier is for sale, but there are restrictions. First, I won't ship it. This means the buyer must claim it in person.
Not the prettiest specimen I ever saw, but not terrible. Only one extra hole in the face, at least. The center knob on the front panel is grid bias, allowing you to reduce the carrier level of a radio that has no control for this . The RCA jack below the words "Bias Adj" is a hard key input, so you can use it on sideband with a radio that has a linear-keying relay. And if you don't care about sideband, so what?
Next flaming hoop to leap through is the buyer must bring the radio he'll use, and even more important his WATTMETER.
Sounds a bit odd, but if the buyer is going to overdrive the amplifier and cause it to fail prematurely, I'll see for myself how much excess drive wattage he'll be using. Gives me a way to predict how many days, or weeks the tube will last before it goes "POOF!", or "SNAP!". Best size radio is what was common around 1974 or 1975. A carrier around or less than 3 Watts and no more than 13 or 14 Watts PEP with modulation. And if the radio really is the right size, the next item of interest is HIS wattmeter.
It will get placed in line with my wattmeter. I don't care how much the two meters may disagree with each other, but there won't be any calls in a day or two complaining it 'doesn't put out enough'.
If that's the case, keep the money in your pocket, pack up your radio and meter. No harm, no foul.
But those are my terms. Oh, and the price is nine hundred bucks plus six percent Kentucky sales tax.
And if nobody has a radio small enough, I'll just have to "turn it down" some. Problem is to predict how much.
73
So here is the final form of the thing. Finally got the "basement" finished, and it's a little too hot for its own good. I'll probably need to dial it back some.
This amplifier is for sale, but there are restrictions. First, I won't ship it. This means the buyer must claim it in person.
Not the prettiest specimen I ever saw, but not terrible. Only one extra hole in the face, at least. The center knob on the front panel is grid bias, allowing you to reduce the carrier level of a radio that has no control for this . The RCA jack below the words "Bias Adj" is a hard key input, so you can use it on sideband with a radio that has a linear-keying relay. And if you don't care about sideband, so what?
Next flaming hoop to leap through is the buyer must bring the radio he'll use, and even more important his WATTMETER.
Sounds a bit odd, but if the buyer is going to overdrive the amplifier and cause it to fail prematurely, I'll see for myself how much excess drive wattage he'll be using. Gives me a way to predict how many days, or weeks the tube will last before it goes "POOF!", or "SNAP!". Best size radio is what was common around 1974 or 1975. A carrier around or less than 3 Watts and no more than 13 or 14 Watts PEP with modulation. And if the radio really is the right size, the next item of interest is HIS wattmeter.
It will get placed in line with my wattmeter. I don't care how much the two meters may disagree with each other, but there won't be any calls in a day or two complaining it 'doesn't put out enough'.
If that's the case, keep the money in your pocket, pack up your radio and meter. No harm, no foul.
But those are my terms. Oh, and the price is nine hundred bucks plus six percent Kentucky sales tax.
And if nobody has a radio small enough, I'll just have to "turn it down" some. Problem is to predict how much.
73
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