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You don't gain anything with the 57s, although they are a more durable tube. Cheapest = !not_the_best To each his own. The guy who buys 5 sets of 811As (at HALF the price) is better off than the guy who purchases a single set of 572s how? --Toll_Free I'm just a dumb CBer who...

Shoulda grabbed some 572s. Although WAY too much for that amp, woulda been the last tubes you'da bought unless a MAJOR catastrophe happened. --Toll_Free

No problem. Don't discount the 'car battery w a charger' trick... I've actually gone BACK to that for winter use, since my power fluctuates so much up here. I've lost 4 switching power supplies in as many months due to power line spikes. 6K feet up in the high desert of California coupled...

If I remember right, that's a "5" band amplifier, 300 watts output. Some came Class C, others biased. Not a bad amplifier. Figure 20A PEAK per transistor with modern day parts, the MRF series could be figured to be about 15A per 'pill'... So you need about a 40A constant, 60A PEAK...

What "extra parts" are you talking about, Doc?

I'm just a DUMB CBer, but 20A peak per transistor is my rule of thumb! --Toll_Free

You almost got it right. Ohms law, then add 30-40 percent on top to account for inefficiencies in the amplifier. Figure 15-20A per transistor. OR, another way to do it is before you do ohms law, take your Pout, multiply it by 1.5, then do your ohms law, and you'll have a real INPUT...

Countryboy... Maybe not screaming in caps at people trying to help would get you a bit better response from others. I have to echo psycho's sentiment, though. Red is not a hi power switch. It's called a power switch. It turns the friggin amplifier on and off. You can go get a...

You need a pair of steering diodes to accomplish what you want. The TS keying circuit keys the negative lead of the relay. Just bring a lead out from the linear that when you ground it, it will allow the relay to close. You need the steering diode in line to keep the keying transistor in...

I've said it once, I've said it a thousand times. Texas Star uses BULLSHIT fuseholders! Those crappy AGC auto fuse holders are ONLY good for 15A. After 15A, the spring inside starts to lose temper and then loses tension. Leading to the EXACT problem being described here. Your fuse goes...

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Out of a chrome top 300A, new 6LF6s, I could get 750 easy. 1000-1100 if I drove the living shit out of it. That was when I could go to Thrifty's and get tubes..... When they ran out, I started doing the Radio Shack thing, they where in the same strip mall..... And they replaced them for...

6KD6 was what they where designed around, then went to 6LF6 when they became available. 6LR6 and 6LB6, as well as 6LX6 will work. 8950 will if you rewire the filaments for 12 volt operation..... 6LQ6 is completely a different tube, 9 pins vs 12. --Toll_Free

Check the two electrolytics in the amplifier. Your bottom pic, the krzci one, has a small cap on the bottom rt of the amp board... I'd be willing to bet that's the delay cap.... Remove it, and it should kill ALL the delay. Also, I'd guess the jumper next to it would be the way to remove...

The 350Z and the 300A are the same amp, for all intents and purposes... The 300A was the same physical size, and as you pointed out, had the transformer in an external chassis. Guess which one has a problem cooking plate transformers? BOTH! The 300A doesn't come with air cooling holes...

The 300A is MUCH more complicated. That's a Skipper he has the schematic posted to... It's a 1X3. The 300A was a 2X4, and had associated switching to switch the driver in and out of the circuit. 4 tubes = Skipper. 6 tubes = 300A or 350Z. --Toll_Free

Yes. Not only that, if you look at the physical connections, you'll notice the "black cap" tubes also have TWO wires coming down to make the connection to the actual anode element inside the tube. --Toll_Free

Not really. If you're going to use 6LQ's in that thing, best to keep it at 450-500 watts PEP output, and about 75 watts AM carrier. With 6MJs in it, it has about 30 percent more Pdiss than the 6LQ's... Also, if it came with the "RF Black Cap Double Strap Plate" connection tubes in it, you...

You are sadly misinformed. The SD1446 is about 10 or so years old. The Elite 250 STARTED production in the LATE 80s.... The Palomar name was from Palomar / Pride Electronics (owned by Westcomm Engineering... What we NOW know as RF Parts :) ) So..... The original 250 Palomars...

Typical bias'ed usage, I see about 3-4 watts of carrier, with 12-15 PEP drive being normal, per transistor. A 400 watt Teas tar provides MORE than enough drive to my Messenger in AB mode. A 500 or 667 does it to saturation in Class C mode. --Toll_Free