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I know I was thinking this same thing looking for a compact SSB radio. I lucked out and found one on a Facebook page for $25+shipping. I could have saved the $15 shipping, but I couldn't make the 90min round-trip drive that week... but then again, what I saved in time and fuel that $15 was worth it.

Link doesn't seem to be showing, so just search this title on Amazon: Redman CB Ham radio Cobra Galaxy Mounting STOCK 5mm Knobs 24 per order

I'm using these with my Galaxies

Nope - its a 5 position coax switch, and I have it on the farthest port to help me avoid that oops!

Instead of the key-up noise of the Browning, you have a key-up doorbell.

In that link, it shows a homebrew RF sampler box. I read someone said to just use the unused port of a coax switch. I connected my oscope like that, and it seems to be picking up output. Now, is it possible to pipe audio in thru the mic jack from an audio device? I'm building a mix switch box...

That adjustable setup is kinda cool. I don't know how it would be attached though to be effective. It's a Superstar 400 AB1 amp, like the black Palomar 250 Elite with the fins on bottom and all extruded aluminum. It's not a big one, but I've had it pretty warm a couple times, so I want to give...

I can understand that. I figure its rare I'm on it long enough to get warm, its more of a precautionary thing.

I was thinking these switches and this tape.

I have an amp I put an old brushless computer ps fan on, but want to make it thermally switched. I found some thermal switches online, was thinking to use thermal conductor tape to attach it. Would you put that right on a pill, or on the external heat sink? Is 45*C sufficient?

Yeah, I have to drag out my scope... It got put away for lack of space, but I'm going to need it again now.

Yeah, I wasn't sure if that is part of the trap it not. It's a plastic piece with wire wound around, and a ferrite screw inside for adjustment. Being waxed like a couple cans and the trap "bare wire" windings people love to spread, I figure is is part of the trap.

Thank you. That says L26, but is is beside the finals and filled with wax. Is it part of the TVI/harmonics filtering that gives ghost watts or is it a legit adjustment?

Realistic TRC465: {L26, VR5-AMC, VR6-ALC, VR10-AM PWR} What is the difference between AMC and ALC?

OK, awesome. I was looking at the picture where there is handwritten numbers, trying to trace the audio ckt from the mic board, and it looked like the white was the one I wanted, but wanted to make sure. This is the Workman BB-3Tornade echo board. It uses 12V, says in directions not to use 9V...

Red - TX BLK - RX WHT - Audio Shield - Shield Pretty much what you had in this picture, which is the one that helped me realize I used a wrong pin position: https://www.worldwidedx.com/attachments/trc-465micwiringjack-png.36515/ I had yellow in the wire I used, not blue, but I didn't use it...

Success. Changed the RX to ground, sounds great! THANK YOU! Sadly, of all of the things I have asked help on, this is the first customization I have been successful with...

Well, using Andy's diagram, I have black and blue switched. That may explain why it is doing it then, not disconnecting the RX. I'll have to look to see where I have it. I had unsoldered the speaker from the wores of the radio to keep me from breaking something, and it was still disconnected...

the only issue with those is the leverage. I want to eliminate the DIN plug due to its weakness in a mobile application, and so I am going to the Cobra 4 pin design to make all of my radios "universal fit". As for my wiring... I used a 5 conductor wire - red, white, yellow, black, shield. I...

Yeah, i did my usual - too many things at once because "while I'm here, I might as well..." When I soldered the wires to the 5 pin board, I just soldered 1 and 2 wires together and soldered them to the board in the corner where the "403" is. There was more room, less chance of accidentally...