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You might think that "coax cleaner" is a joke, but we actually had such a substance at the cable company. It was an industrial strength orange cleaner that was marketed, at the time, specifically for cleaning the sticky gunk on flooded coax. Nobody ever used it for that, but it worked...

You have to log in to get the price, but they are out of stock. Is that the unobtanium chip that repair shops are saying they can't fix if it's bad? If so, you may be out of luck unless you can find a donor radio.

Yep, they always blow on the side closest to the chassis too, so you don't see the hole until the part is out. Pretty simple to diagnose though when you have no tx or rx audio. It would just be easier if you could see the damage without working for it.

I just realized that this Galaxy DX 2527 is not storing the memory after the power is off for more than about 30 seconds. There is no battery on the board, like there is with other radios with this chassis, so I am assuming that it is using a capacitor on the chip somewhere. Is there a way to...

Well, I'm still waiting to hear back from R&R and Mike. I believe the core makes a difference on these things, so I hesitate to try putting in something else other than the OEM part until I have no other options. I could be wrong, and if so, someone can correct me.

I can do one better. Here's a picture, and it seems to be 3 1/2 turns of wire. The plastic insulator is gone, there is no adjustable core, and that ferrite core that is there seems to only be being held in by some beeswax, because it will fall out if I have the radio upside down and key up...

Well, I got a reply from Barkett yesterday. They don't have any. He suggested asking R&R also. I have sent R&R an email, and hopefully they have one. If not, I may need to see if anyone wants to go in on an order with me from Radio Shop Supply. They have them, but they want a minimum order...

I don't repair radios enough to warrant buying a bunch of junk radios. At least not yet. Right now, all my area for junk is taken up with television parts. Lol

I saw it there, but I'm not familiar with them, so I didn't try to contact them. I will. Thanks.

I shot them off an email earlier today. They have had some hard to find parts for Ranger built radios in the past, so they were the first place I looked. I saw nothing on his website though, but that hasn't been a deal killer in the past for them. They don't usually list used parts, so they...

I have a DX 2527 that has a broken RF coil. The part number for it is ECRFZ10001. I can get one, but the distributor I found that has it wants a minimum order of $100, and I don't need or want that much of their stuff. Does anyone have one of these? It is L34 on the board. Thanks

I just got a hell of a deal on an old Fluke 6060A/AN. The guy still has some listed, although it appears that all of them have error codes showing. Mine did as well. He has them listed for $95 or make offer. I offered $70, which made it about $120 after shipping. When I got it, I started...

Sorry for taking so long to reply. I got sidetracked with work. I already fixed the intermittent problem with the power to the display. It seems like you may not have been clear about that. Other than the SWR and S/RF meter, everything on the display, and the rest of the radio, is...

I was given a Cobra 29 LX that had been apparently dropped on its face, and was intermittently not showing a display, or a backlight. I tracked that problem down to the back of a voltage regulator popping off the board. When I got that soldered down, the display and the meters seemed to work...

I plan on fixing all of them. The 5328A I'm sure just needs an alignment. The fluke, for some reason has the most miserable sensitivity I've ever seen. I have a few of those little amplifier boards laying around that you can get cheap on ebay and Amazon. They work pretty good, but sometimes...

It is time to start getting to all the projects I have long intended to get to, but haven't, because I'm starting to feel claustrophobic with all the junk encroaching. First thing I'm working on is frequency counters. I seem to have a problem with acquiring frequency counters, and I am sitting...

Yeah, something is definitely wrong. Where it was putting out a hair over 4 watts at first, it is now only putting out about 2.6 watts, and it is still getting blazing hot, even in receive. As for those voltages, the service manual says that the base and emitter should be at zero in receive...

Okay ExitThirteen, I checked the voltages before I pulled the leg up, and it was: RX: E=0.001V, B=0.593V, C=12.3V TX: E=0.000V, B=0.001V, C=10.77V After pulling the base leg up, I checked RX only: C = 8.357V, B = 0.005V, E = 0.009V For the base, I tested the pad where the base was, not the leg...

Well, I'll check it, but I've had it on for a while now, since I fixed the voltage regulator, and while it gets somewhat warm without transmitting, it doesn't get near as hot as it did earlier. I may not have tested it enough after the change. I'm will still check that though.

It is a 40 plus, with the flat brushed metal face, and just as strange, I found a bad voltage regulator, replaced it, and now all the problems except for the final getting extremely hot are fixed. It was IC205, which is an 8 volt regulator that was not putting out any voltage. I have no idea...