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You can still modulate a "Volted" final. You just have to couple the final to the audio output yet isolate the audio AC component from the impedance of the power rail/supply. So feed the final thru a choke suitable for the current draw but with ample audio frequency rejection and now the audio...

5/32" maybe? I just know which one on my combo sets to jam in. I'll verify in the morning

You'd be fine with that cable really. Short runs and low power so no need to split hairs really. Do check your swr at high power output. Carrier. It's possible the guy was playing straight about the swr but, there's no adjustment on a whip besides adding spring length and or trimming. They...

Well not withstanding general aging due to weather and the elements. Beldin is legit. I use Beldin rg8x mobile. Scored a big roll a ways way back. We just did some tests on Jetstream rg8x and Christ a Light. It's total crap. Even for HF. So go to DX Engineering and get some of their rg58 or...

Well 12awg wire is plenty for that amp. It certainly won't hurt. If you're not up to speed on making your own coax cables. Just use any standard length you can get pre-made between the radio and the Linear! And the same for the antenna. Use whatever is the closest in length to what you need...

Hmmm well she's been lit up before. If you're going to bother fooling with squaring this thing away. Take the time and 3 bucks and replace all your balancing resistors. Most likely you're dealing with individual 2 pill section input tuning issues. Unless you have a FLIR to look at your...

Not familiar with this unit specifically but maybe parasitic suppressors need replaced. Anything effecting the output in any way will effect the input.

Well we'll just call that planning for the next purchase you hide from the War Department! But if someone never intends to go bigger then a 203, a quality cig lighter setup is plenty. Most new-ish cars are 15 amps. I run dual/parallel 4 awg hot & ground in my Tundra. But most of the time I'm...

If you drive the cars regularly, then no. They don't draw any idle current worth mentioning. You can effectively power the little 203's from a quality banana jack style Cig/Accessory jack as well. It'd be silly to run dedicated power to the battery through the fire wall for an amp of that class.

Regarding this 5 watt power resistor in the bias scheme. How long does it take to get hot? And while you are testing this and keying it up has your balancing resistor in the output combiner (Near the relay) burned up yet? Doesn't take long. And you said the resistors associated with the bias...

Hey Bud. The way you're writing that it looks like you are talking about the input tune of the 24 Pill Linear. Show me the Linears! Sorry, I yell that as I walk into Hamfests. If you mean a 1.35 and or 1.24 to 1, input match, input tune, SWR seen by the driving radio and not the output match...

Hopefully you used some more bird sh!t after cleaning off the old and remounting them! FWIW nothing appeared obviously burnt including the Base "Smoke" resistors. However over driving the piss out of the little motorolas just causes them to go open, not short. So here's to ya Blacksmith!

Well that's good news. I appreciate your input. Going to try them I figure.

Yeah. I'm hopeful. The old Motorola engineer that I met said that the equipment/tooling etc was sold with the design/rights whatever. It all went to China but what didn't and if they are producing the part on all the goodies then swell. Why no one tried or Toshiba didn't offer all their old...

I generally understand that after Motorola quit production of their 12v line finals that MACOM bought the rights? In particular. I have the ability to acquire a batch of M/A-Com manufactured MRF455 The source is legit and will let me return them if they aren't to my liking. Was going to buy...

Well I'm glad you recovered man and made it through. I bet that is a nice rifle. Tack driver I'm sure.

Oh Man! I don't know how I forgot about having one of these. I bought one of these from Copper and must have been right at the end of 8th grade. Because it was a piece of shit! And Copper finally replaced it after dear ol Mama bitched them out after a few months of attempted "Repairs" The...

Also were it to be a switching issue as far as the mode switch is concerned. Try USB and LSB. If only one mode is janky then it's probably the mode switch. If both are snaggletooth then I'd really suspect what I mentioned first. That would create a conflict with the different mode/modulation...

In SSB mode the final is powered with 12vdc.. In AM it is powered and modulated by the AM regulator. A common mod is to "Volt" the final as they say. By feeding the final 12vdc constantly. Commonly people tag the final feed aka "bias wire" on the web to 12v. The driver and final wires are...

Ahh ok you were the potential repair guy gotcha