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11 Meter Radios AM/SSB/FM
- Thread starter whiteastro
- Start date
Knights has the McKinley EU, but for the price, a Lincoln 2+ is the way most people go.
https://www.kcb.co.uk/contents/en-uk/d151_Multimode_(AM_FM_SSB).html
https://www.kcb.co.uk/contents/en-uk/d151_Multimode_(AM_FM_SSB).html
You can spend a lot of time searching for info on google which I have done and read a lot of crap. Sometimes in forums somebody has already been down that road and is willing to share info.
I'll check out that Lincoln while I'm at it. I checked out importing a McKinley EU and that's not going to happen. TOO Pricey for Me. LOL
I reckon I misread your post. I took it to mean you were looking for real specs such as full load amperage draw so you could choose a correct wire size. I never thought of specs as crap but useful info. What was I thinkin' ?
Maybe I was in a hurry and missed what I was looking for. or didn't look in the right places. I'm getting close to giving up on radios and computers anyway, too much on the plate !
The 5555 needs to be tuned slightly out of the box to peak what it can. Also, out of the box they seem to love to clamp down on the audio, and that limits the swing. I have a Bird 4391 meter that has peak reading, and I do see around 45-50 watts peak regularly on AM once the radio was gone through. I would think a 10amp power supply would easily run one, potentially even a bit smaller. The 5555 is my daily driver at home.
They can be had for around 219.00 shipped out of so cal on Ebay. For 219 I cannot beat the amount of radio you get with a stick!
Ok, you should always supply the radio for operation by looking at its fuse rating...let's take a look...
Seriously...
So, plan on using a power supply capable of 20A (well if you can find one for 15A that's your guess), I'm derating the typical home plug-in power supply by 25% as a safety margin (Linear type for best results) not switching - Not recommended due to noise perseverance and problems with it. You don't want "white noise" getting added into your listening pleasure by the noisy switching modes (or pulse trains it makes) taking away your ability to listen.
So, using a linear - non-switching power supply, 20 Amps capacity is recommended.
As far as AWG sizes?
Look down the chart, you'll find Amperage in a Collum as recommended and the AWG wire size in the Row ...
I see between 10ga AWG to 9ga AWG - for your usual use, if it's less than a 10-foot run, you'd be fine with 10 AWG - but if you're longer than 10 feet, then use 9AWG (they don't normally sell #9 wire) so I'd bump up a size of diameter to 8AWG or #8 wire to handle more loading.
To help you - when you know Volts and Amps - lets do the calculation -
Watts = Volts x Amps
or
W = 12VDC x 15A(DC)
or
W = 180 (Power consumption)
Now to claim that 50W - you cannot do that by simply looking at the fuse (thankfully)
But they can: claim Peak Envelope Power - but has to be specified.
Is it Specified?
If you can't; see, find, locate, derive, or otherwise answer then you know they are selling wishes...
Looks more like 22Watts - as Stock (the 150W scale - or as seen on the front face of the Meter X10 setting)
Ok,
Power draw?
Looks a little short, but this is in FM mode...SSB would be closer to about 10 MAYBE 12 Amps draw (lower scale to help you) the scale shows about 7.5 Amp draw in FM mode.
I can't help you make up your mind but if needed...you can review the above - at the site shown below...
This graphic is shown so the "bots" won't derate the views for being biased - you have to type this in yourself....
OR use this as your search engine...in YT
ANYTONE AT-5555 TEST BY 153E251
Thanks Handy Andy for the info ! Looks like I should settle for what I have already because I have to invest my money in finishing my house remodeling. Radio is a fun hobby but like all hobbies you can invest a fortune in it, depending where you want to go with it. This deep narrow valley is not a radio man's dream so maybe it is time to move out first before investing more money. Thanks again !
In the AC wiring world 14GA.wire is suppose to handle 15 AMP and 12GA for 20 AMP.
I never studied DC standards but I ran 14GA wire in my autos to supply my CBs and small KL 200 P and KL203 P Amps and haven't had any problems but then again I'm not a motor mouth or ( Ratchet Jaw ). LOL
You'd be fine to use a minimum gauge of #14, but remember too...
The outer jacket size (the insulating sleeve protecting the copper) can be much thicker that the ACTUAL wire size used in the conductor.
Why? (Ask yourself - Which is Cheaper?)
Take a look at the power cord when it arrives.
Should be RATED to handle that (per their suggestion) power capacity.
The AT-5555 and AT-6666 units came with (Claimed) #12 - but are closer to #14 inside their insulation jacket sleeves.
Here's the problem.
These are SMD radios - and although use a fused-ferrite and so-they-called-it-A..."filtered" system - their grid-lattice and plated thru hole areas are only going to handle so much current - with surges - there may be fewer plated thru holes left to handle the next wave of demands.
A good rule of thumb is, the more stock they are, your odds of having one last for years - The Mean Time Between Failures, rises, from; less mods done - swing, audio - compression PEP Limiter defeating stuff demanding more from its branching power supply system inside - increases considerably. IN this case LESS the better.
They really never get above 12A draw. But not too many autostores sell cartridge 12A fuses anymore - the makers that still do this supply - they rounded to the nickels and dimes - 10A or 15A - so if you find 12A fuse from places like Littlefuse, they are more like Antique store finds and Museum Pieces from an era long ago...
Even Uniden used that #14AWG size for their smaller radios like the 510 and 520 - using only 2A fuses...literally designed to blow open if you add more mods and cut limiter to swing more - than it's worth...So most usually cut it off and wire direct into a (hopefully) fused circuit and let the games begin...
So, here's my proof - AT-5555 (Note this is the Full-Sized Sedan version) is the predecessor of the 5555N (Compact Ford Tarus) while the AT-6666 is more like a MG Midget - Fun to drive but lousy with hauling luggage...
You take your chances....
Will it need all 15 Amps?
Lets' (please) hope not.
for - IF it blows that fuse
- you may have ruined that radio....
The outer jacket size (the insulating sleeve protecting the copper) can be much thicker that the ACTUAL wire size used in the conductor.
Why? (Ask yourself - Which is Cheaper?)
Take a look at the power cord when it arrives.
Should be RATED to handle that (per their suggestion) power capacity.
The AT-5555 and AT-6666 units came with (Claimed) #12 - but are closer to #14 inside their insulation jacket sleeves.
Here's the problem.
These are SMD radios - and although use a fused-ferrite and so-they-called-it-A..."filtered" system - their grid-lattice and plated thru hole areas are only going to handle so much current - with surges - there may be fewer plated thru holes left to handle the next wave of demands.
A good rule of thumb is, the more stock they are, your odds of having one last for years - The Mean Time Between Failures, rises, from; less mods done - swing, audio - compression PEP Limiter defeating stuff demanding more from its branching power supply system inside - increases considerably. IN this case LESS the better.
They really never get above 12A draw. But not too many autostores sell cartridge 12A fuses anymore - the makers that still do this supply - they rounded to the nickels and dimes - 10A or 15A - so if you find 12A fuse from places like Littlefuse, they are more like Antique store finds and Museum Pieces from an era long ago...
Even Uniden used that #14AWG size for their smaller radios like the 510 and 520 - using only 2A fuses...literally designed to blow open if you add more mods and cut limiter to swing more - than it's worth...So most usually cut it off and wire direct into a (hopefully) fused circuit and let the games begin...
So, here's my proof - AT-5555 (Note this is the Full-Sized Sedan version) is the predecessor of the 5555N (Compact Ford Tarus) while the AT-6666 is more like a MG Midget - Fun to drive but lousy with hauling luggage...
You take your chances....
Will it need all 15 Amps?
Lets' (please) hope not.
for - IF it blows that fuse
- you may have ruined that radio....
Just my .02
I find these handy in a mobile radio install:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32897068247.html
The last one on the bottom right is the 13.8v 25amp model ($38.66 shipped).
It is an automatic buck/boost DC to DC converter. It takes any DC voltage from 8-36v and puts out a regulated 13.8v @ 25amps. So whether your battery is charging @ 14.5v or siting there quietly @ 10.5~11v with the engine off, your radio is getting 13.8v.
Don't have to sit there with your engine on so you don't warble on SSB. Input wires are 10 gauge and the output wires are 12 gauge.
I find these handy in a mobile radio install:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32897068247.html
The last one on the bottom right is the 13.8v 25amp model ($38.66 shipped).
It is an automatic buck/boost DC to DC converter. It takes any DC voltage from 8-36v and puts out a regulated 13.8v @ 25amps. So whether your battery is charging @ 14.5v or siting there quietly @ 10.5~11v with the engine off, your radio is getting 13.8v.
Don't have to sit there with your engine on so you don't warble on SSB. Input wires are 10 gauge and the output wires are 12 gauge.
That's a neat little device, might be good to have just in case.
I could see that being extremely helpful to the off-road guys in the atv's too