check the power supply for the router. WiFi should not be interfering. Change to 5Gz to see what happens.
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30 db of electrical noise
- Thread starter lonestarbandit
- Start date
The 2.4 and 5ghz weren't the issue unsurprisingly. Its the bloody router P/S under load. I missed it the 1st time as I just unplugged it from router and not the wall and the humming stopped. But unplugging and plugging back in the 110 to the transformer brick and under load aka use there's the noise. Well replacement one of those is much cheaper than a new router. Still have to find the other source of interference though thats pegging the meter. At least I have the source of that vicious hum now though.
If someone already mentioned this idea then I apologize for repeating. I have an older APC power strip that slides on the end of a desk. It has USB charging ports. If you plug an IPhone cable into one of the ports the noise level on my base station, in the same room is equivalent to getting a dental filling. I discovered it one day when I turned the radio on an noise on all channels. So I started retrace everything from the antenna back into the house to see if something got damaged. I remembered a old article about a super load alarm clock sold at truck stops that has a mechanism that a big noise source. So I looked for new electronics nearby. Hope you have luck with the band pass filters.
Attachments
I'll go hunting tomorrow for unused usb cords thanks for the suggestion.
and drumroll..... results? i had a pricy highly reviewed router,it was noisy n not that great. bought a cheepo from best buy n hello its quiet n works better than that $200 pos. the cheepo cost $ 45. ive decided the reviews are paid up to say what the seller wants to hear but thats my opinion too
I did that one time. I was getting interference from the cable system so bad 2m was horrendous. Got no satisfaction from the cable company. One day I made a "mistake" and fed about 75 watts back into the cable system of the apartment we were living in at the time just after we were married. Hmmmmmmmmm...........no more noise but no more cable either. Called to complain that it was out and they were there by that afternoon. The guy couldn't figure out how things got damaged like they did. I told him that maybe it was overload from a nearby transmitter. He said no that the system was shielded. I told him BULLSHIT and that I had been complaining for monyths and that any egress FROM a cable system was a violation of the law and that if anything was leaking OUT that meant that any RF could get IN. He seemed a little pissed but about a week later ALL my cable interference was gone.
Have you checked to see just how much power and the types of power the Wireless part is operating?
Unless you want to work the neighborhood - you really shouldn't use all 100% percent of power and all the bands it has available to you for setup and utilization.
Why?
Well, ever hear of a program called AirCrack? It was originally designed as a troubleshooting process for techs working in the field to gain access and fix router systems for homeowners - businesses, even public places to reset and fix router issues without having to obtain access to the router itself.
It's a freely available program someone can download - and use against your system to force entry and mess with your system.
So unless you have set up your router to work all the neighborhood and the local school, you might want to investigate and change those power levels.
This may help your situation and improve privacy issues.
Unless you want to operate openly for anyone to access your system - you really should take control of that router and reset it's power levels.
Remember too, others are using their systems that can cause problems for your system - for it can also INTERFERE with other systems causing a CONTENTION issue and specific bands that would otherwise be available for others to use, are shut down because of the interference of other routers demanding the same range of frequencies so your router kicks into overtime answering with "I'm Using This" all the time...
Relocate the router, possibly change your SSID to hidden - lower it's output power and if you really don't need the Wi-Fi of the router, shut it down and use the network cables - OR - turn off the Wi-Fi and set up an EXTERNAL Wi-Fi router using your Network thru your router - only it becomes your Wi-Fi hub, and your router communicates to the Wi-Fi "Hub" thru it instead of that poorly designed stuff they push on all of us.
Unless you want to work the neighborhood - you really shouldn't use all 100% percent of power and all the bands it has available to you for setup and utilization.
Why?
Well, ever hear of a program called AirCrack? It was originally designed as a troubleshooting process for techs working in the field to gain access and fix router systems for homeowners - businesses, even public places to reset and fix router issues without having to obtain access to the router itself.
It's a freely available program someone can download - and use against your system to force entry and mess with your system.
So unless you have set up your router to work all the neighborhood and the local school, you might want to investigate and change those power levels.
This may help your situation and improve privacy issues.
Unless you want to operate openly for anyone to access your system - you really should take control of that router and reset it's power levels.
Remember too, others are using their systems that can cause problems for your system - for it can also INTERFERE with other systems causing a CONTENTION issue and specific bands that would otherwise be available for others to use, are shut down because of the interference of other routers demanding the same range of frequencies so your router kicks into overtime answering with "I'm Using This" all the time...
Relocate the router, possibly change your SSID to hidden - lower it's output power and if you really don't need the Wi-Fi of the router, shut it down and use the network cables - OR - turn off the Wi-Fi and set up an EXTERNAL Wi-Fi router using your Network thru your router - only it becomes your Wi-Fi hub, and your router communicates to the Wi-Fi "Hub" thru it instead of that poorly designed stuff they push on all of us.
Its not my router causing the issue but the power supply for it.
Have a new one on order. Yes I tested all the 2.4 and 5ghz radios and they arent the source of the issue. Its the P/S.
Have a new one on order. Yes I tested all the 2.4 and 5ghz radios and they arent the source of the issue. Its the P/S.
I recently learned what others of you may have known for years. Our wifi seemed to have blind spots, and extenders weren't doing any good. So I wondered about interference when I started hearing weird sounds on my HF rig, too.
I download a rf sensing app to my phone and start looking around the house. To my surprise I walk by the washing machine with my phone in my hand and it signals an rf signature.
I learn that my washing machine, dryer, refrigerator, and microwave all have rf oozing from them even when not in use.
And, I've been through that power block noise thing before. It charged an electric razor.
I download a rf sensing app to my phone and start looking around the house. To my surprise I walk by the washing machine with my phone in my hand and it signals an rf signature.
I learn that my washing machine, dryer, refrigerator, and microwave all have rf oozing from them even when not in use.
And, I've been through that power block noise thing before. It charged an electric razor.
An rf sensing ap? I'm going to have to check that out, thanks.
That’ll allow the bad actors to get a better 4D calibration of your homes interior versus exterior signal interference.
Ain’t nothing free or cheap, bubba. See what Applegate says about the usefulness of an RF/EMI Detector and figure the cost low versus utility.
It’s not just indoors or for mobile.
Every device that could be a spy device is a spy device.
And some folks are too dumb for words. Alexa? Video Bluetooth doorbell? (A TV in the house is the giveaway).
Better the tool — which for a radio guy will always be useful — versus any phone app.
(Ballistics/Windage app on phone? Laser rangefinder? You’re kidding, right? Just paint a fluorescent target on yourself.)
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Used to have a problem with noise a while back. Did the whole battery in the house, turned off all breakers.. heated em up one by one. Turned out to be a CHEAP Chinese knock off laptop charger my wife bought online. Replaced with a real Toshiba unit... problem solved.
routers known to cause Interference to ham radio equipment
http://www.hamuniverse.com/linksys.html
http://www.hamuniverse.com/linksys.html
Trouble with that list is everything on it is probably in a landfill somewhere.
Technology moves at warp speed lol
Technology moves at warp speed lol