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4 pill question
- Thread starter Se7en
- Start date
B
BOOTY MONSTER
Guest
get a drink and a sammich .
A.M. TUTORIAL
17 pep will get all the clean swing that a 500v can do . just keep in mind if you put a distorted or over modulated signal from your radio into that amp it will amplify that too .
yes.
distortion in gets distortion out.
i was concerned that a 100w DK and swinging to 500W is just too much swing.
i have come to the conclusion that in ratio's that when AM DX is in i would get out stronger with a higher DK but same output. so i assume a 250wdk from this amp and the same 500w swing is better off..... than a 100w deadkey and 500w swing.
i checked out that link you posted cool.
what i highlight in bold can be answered please.
Morse -
You didn't mention if you are running this amp on a base or in a mobile, but in either case it appears that you are not getting enough amperage to the amp for full output power. If the amp was 100% efficient (it isn't), it would require 50 amps @ 14 vdc to produce 700 watts. As ASW said, at the minimum you will need to upgrade the amp's power leads to #8 or larger, and eliminate any potential voltage drops (like the fuse holders). The best way to tell where you stand as far as your supply goes is to monitor the amp supply voltage with an analog meter, and see how much voltage drop you have when you keyup. First, check this voltage at the source ( where the amp's power leads are connected to the power supply. When you keyup, if you see more than a 1 vdc drop, you need to upgrade the supply. Then check the voltage inside the amp where the supply leads connect to the board. When you keyup, there should not be any additional drop over what you saw at the other end of the supply leads. If there is, then the supply leads are too small and need to be upgraded.
- J.J.
You didn't mention if you are running this amp on a base or in a mobile, but in either case it appears that you are not getting enough amperage to the amp for full output power. If the amp was 100% efficient (it isn't), it would require 50 amps @ 14 vdc to produce 700 watts. As ASW said, at the minimum you will need to upgrade the amp's power leads to #8 or larger, and eliminate any potential voltage drops (like the fuse holders). The best way to tell where you stand as far as your supply goes is to monitor the amp supply voltage with an analog meter, and see how much voltage drop you have when you keyup. First, check this voltage at the source ( where the amp's power leads are connected to the power supply. When you keyup, if you see more than a 1 vdc drop, you need to upgrade the supply. Then check the voltage inside the amp where the supply leads connect to the board. When you keyup, there should not be any additional drop over what you saw at the other end of the supply leads. If there is, then the supply leads are too small and need to be upgraded.
- J.J.
4' of 4 gauge wire from amp to battery. neg is to battery. battery is grounded to body and frame etc etc.
wire on amp is much smaller then the 4 gauge i am using.
only fuse inline on my end is 3 inches from battery, glass agu gold fuse's 70amp piece. i will extract the bunk wire from the circuit board and upgrade to solid 4 gauge.... if that helps? the fuses inside the amp at back are super small? lame imo. car off = 13.8VDC for 3 hours with amp 3XXw pep.
car on = 14.XX (dont remember) 500w pep.
These are great amplifiers I have a few of them. I will suggest a huge option to keep that amplifier running smoothe for along time.
ADD ATLEAST A 3.5 INCH 12 VOLT FAN TO THE CENTER OF THE HEATSINK TO KEEP IT COOLER WHEN TRANSMITTING. Thats what I do and have done for years now never had to replace any transistors in any of my Texas Star amplifiers
ADD ATLEAST A 3.5 INCH 12 VOLT FAN TO THE CENTER OF THE HEATSINK TO KEEP IT COOLER WHEN TRANSMITTING. Thats what I do and have done for years now never had to replace any transistors in any of my Texas Star amplifiers
B
BOOTY MONSTER
Guest
