I'd make that footing 4' x 4' x 6'. Better safe than sorry. Especially if you're in hurricane country.
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50ft tilt crank up/tower w/pics
- Thread starter johnny9
- Start date
My 64 foot Trylon is rated for 52 square feet of wind loading and is set in a base about 4 1/2 x 4 1/2 x 5 feet, The base is wider at the bottom than at the top and the bottom 3 feet sits in a bed of slate so it will not move at all. A 4x4x6 foot base for the above tower may be a little overkill even in hurricane alley as the tower itself will fail before the base ever becomes an issue at that size. In any case one must have a base that will handle the forces of tilting it over if one wishes to do so. The tilt over jig needs a strong base especially.
And 51' away from the home 20. Hurricanes often spawn tornados. That's what brought down a guyed 72' high RS Crossbow antenna I used to have. The mast pole had a corkscrew bend to it afterwards. I had enough sense to make sure everyone's cars were at a safe distance away from it.
CK, I thought about all those things that you and others said about the footer after I posted earlier and ya'll are right. The only time I've seen rebar used to tie in another section of concrete was in footings. Also,when light pole bases are poured and the delivered concrete isn't enough to complete the base footing,more concrete can be poured on top of it as long as it's the same day. For slab work,a bonding agent is often used to glue the new top layer of concrete onto a previously poured slab.
I dug and poured my own tower base in the same afternoon but I drive a concrete truck and the concrete was put to sleep for a day and a half. We used to use Delvo but nowadays we use Recover. The chemical coats each cement particle for a preset length of time based on the dosage rate in order to keep it from reacting.
http://www.na.graceconstruction.com/concrete/download/recover-5i_recover_11_15_8.pdf
http://www.basf-admixtures.com/en/products/hydrationcontrol/delvostabilizer/Pages/default.aspx
CK, I thought about all those things that you and others said about the footer after I posted earlier and ya'll are right. The only time I've seen rebar used to tie in another section of concrete was in footings. Also,when light pole bases are poured and the delivered concrete isn't enough to complete the base footing,more concrete can be poured on top of it as long as it's the same day. For slab work,a bonding agent is often used to glue the new top layer of concrete onto a previously poured slab.
I dug and poured my own tower base in the same afternoon but I drive a concrete truck and the concrete was put to sleep for a day and a half. We used to use Delvo but nowadays we use Recover. The chemical coats each cement particle for a preset length of time based on the dosage rate in order to keep it from reacting.
http://www.na.graceconstruction.com/concrete/download/recover-5i_recover_11_15_8.pdf
http://www.basf-admixtures.com/en/products/hydrationcontrol/delvostabilizer/Pages/default.aspx
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the 200 lbs of concrete i spoke of was only for the 4 inch steel post 5ft deep behind the towers plate/pad to secure it to with less concrete in the pad..so scratch that idea now..
ok im getting it..so will 3ft x3ft square x 6ft deep sound like that would work..i may have to save to get the concrete truck here,or see if my buddy still hauls it then id be set.
the bottom tower mounting plate is 3/8 thick and only has 3 -3/4 inch holes for mounting it to the pad..
id think those would shear before the pad even moved..?
is 3- 2 ft threaded 3/.4 steel rod enough for this?
or should i get 3/4 grade 8 threaded rod? i have a ton of 3/4 threaded rod but its just from beefy gate hinges that hold 700lb gates,but when holding them from one end like a hinge does thats gotta be a huge amount of weight hanging on the end like that?
but if i need grade 8 i will wait and get it also.
so for now a smallest poss but also"over kill" hole size will help me,and i can call tomorrow and get a price for a couple yards or whatever they add up that i need..if i get this hole size converted to lbs of concrete needed and its 20 60lb bags or less i will do it by hand the old hard ways,with hoe and wheelbarrel..my back will be shot but i want it done..but nnot skimping here.
and it can not be more than 20 ft from my home so overkill it will have to be.and the guy wires there just to "pray" if anythin happend it will pull it away from my home.
robb,yes in fl..all my life here and never no lightening strikes"yet" and never more than 70mph winds..id let it down if ever needed for sure.
ok im getting it..so will 3ft x3ft square x 6ft deep sound like that would work..i may have to save to get the concrete truck here,or see if my buddy still hauls it then id be set.
the bottom tower mounting plate is 3/8 thick and only has 3 -3/4 inch holes for mounting it to the pad..
id think those would shear before the pad even moved..?
is 3- 2 ft threaded 3/.4 steel rod enough for this?
or should i get 3/4 grade 8 threaded rod? i have a ton of 3/4 threaded rod but its just from beefy gate hinges that hold 700lb gates,but when holding them from one end like a hinge does thats gotta be a huge amount of weight hanging on the end like that?
but if i need grade 8 i will wait and get it also.
so for now a smallest poss but also"over kill" hole size will help me,and i can call tomorrow and get a price for a couple yards or whatever they add up that i need..if i get this hole size converted to lbs of concrete needed and its 20 60lb bags or less i will do it by hand the old hard ways,with hoe and wheelbarrel..my back will be shot but i want it done..but nnot skimping here.
and it can not be more than 20 ft from my home so overkill it will have to be.and the guy wires there just to "pray" if anythin happend it will pull it away from my home.
robb,yes in fl..all my life here and never no lightening strikes"yet" and never more than 70mph winds..id let it down if ever needed for sure.
You must live in the northern part of FL along the panhandle. Otherwise, it is a tough place for lightning.
Concrete ready mix companies usually have either a concrete calculator,computer program, and the mathematical equation for calculating concrete dimensions. You need to find out what size and grade bolts you need. I guesstimated with my small tower. The forces acting on the anchor bolts are extension forces.
P.S. Concrete trucks have been known to fall in septic tanks. The guy that drove mine when I was on vacation did. Don't forget the field lines as well.
My concrete truck weighs 31,680 lbs empty and around 72,000 lbs loaded with 10 cu yrds of concrete.
P.S. Concrete trucks have been known to fall in septic tanks. The guy that drove mine when I was on vacation did. Don't forget the field lines as well.
My concrete truck weighs 31,680 lbs empty and around 72,000 lbs loaded with 10 cu yrds of concrete.
It was a old homesite. The footing guys didn't know there was one. It was a good thing that my frame didn't twist too much to have to be replaced.
ok,got it..you guys are a tremendous help and thats why im here..
to drive ya nutz..
calling tomorrrow to get price for 2-1/2 to 3 yards..if i can get the guy i got before it will be 2000lb fibercrete or something like that.
im gonna go 6 ft deep for sure,and let the concrete people figure it up for me the width whether its 3x3 or 4x4 so it comes out to the correct amount so i dont dig too much hole and not have enough concrete.
so instead of trying to get going i will see if i can somehow move it further away from the house like 60 ft,but i will be beside 2 big oaks and not sure it will work..let yall no tomorrow.
thanks very much:bdh: and yall have a great nights sleep,dreaming of my tower getting struck and blown on my house
robb im like 30 miles east of crystal river,on the withalacoochie river...now im gonna be screwed when the hams see this lol...lifes a beotch aint it!
to drive ya nutz..calling tomorrrow to get price for 2-1/2 to 3 yards..if i can get the guy i got before it will be 2000lb fibercrete or something like that.
im gonna go 6 ft deep for sure,and let the concrete people figure it up for me the width whether its 3x3 or 4x4 so it comes out to the correct amount so i dont dig too much hole and not have enough concrete.
so instead of trying to get going i will see if i can somehow move it further away from the house like 60 ft,but i will be beside 2 big oaks and not sure it will work..let yall no tomorrow.
thanks very much:bdh: and yall have a great nights sleep,dreaming of my tower getting struck and blown on my house
robb im like 30 miles east of crystal river,on the withalacoochie river...now im gonna be screwed when the hams see this lol...lifes a beotch aint it!
It's best to order a little over just in case or a trip to the DIY store for some sackrete may be needed.
Rohn Tower main Lift - YouTube
Rohn Tower main Lift - YouTube
been searching the web for info and pics for a while..best i can tell its a older rohn 25g,,,maybe,,
i think the sections have been welded together.since its 2-23ft sections with 3-4ft apex i cant find nothing in that description..the outer pipe is like 1 inch o.d or a hair under and 1/8th thick walled..like what i use in my welding shop that id call 3/4 pipe,measured on the i.d
i will get close up pics of everything tomorrow,and decide what to do..whatever i do it will be overkill..even if mother nature may twist it up someday..time is on my side,yes it is..
i think the sections have been welded together.since its 2-23ft sections with 3-4ft apex i cant find nothing in that description..the outer pipe is like 1 inch o.d or a hair under and 1/8th thick walled..like what i use in my welding shop that id call 3/4 pipe,measured on the i.d
i will get close up pics of everything tomorrow,and decide what to do..whatever i do it will be overkill..even if mother nature may twist it up someday..time is on my side,yes it is..
guess the tower will be on hold a lil while..
2 yds delivered 351 bucks..most others want just over 400..
plenty of time for me to think this thru.
2 yds delivered 351 bucks..most others want just over 400..
plenty of time for me to think this thru.
I meant on the part of the homeowner not knowing where it was located so it could be avoided.