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.64λ Homebrew

The toilet flange stiffens the spool end which is the platform for the radials. The torque from the radial lengths caused unsightly droop.
Additionally, the flange provides a common path for current to all of the radials and the bottom of the inductor.
Being brass, it will weather better than some common metal, too.

Because someone asked for this

I used two of these:
zplate.jpg
and one of these:
081942088196.jpg


I straightened the Z plates into L's, and combined them with the mending plate to make a large C flange using two C clamps for attaching it all to a mast.

F0062_sm.jpg



In the upper end of the C flange I enlarged
the hole to receive one of these:

28525psku.jpg


on the bottom end I mounted one of these:
635420_front200.jpg


with one of these 1-1/2" close nipples screwed into a 1-1/2"PVC female adapter:
Close_nipple.jpg
3525_PVC_FemaleAdapter_435_015.jpg



Of course, there is a 1-1/2" PVC tube between the top and bottom of the C flange and connectors.
Inside the bottom of the PVC tube is a smaller diameter PVC coupler sufficiently long enough to prevent the metal of the bracket from being in contact with the bottom of the vertical radiator.
The top spool end disc to which the radials are attached is fastened in this fashion:
A threaded female PVC coupler is screwed down onto the upward looking threads of the top 1-1/2" PVC male adapter at the top of the mounting flange and is used for a nut.

Another male PVC adapter is screwed downward into that coupler. At this point is where the spool end disc is placed.

Epoxy will prevent water from getting down into the mounting section when applied around the vertical radial, and if applied around the disc to adapter connection will secure the disc from rotating in a manner superior to my choice of silicone, however, I am subject to take the whole thing apart for a future project and reuse it all, so I used silicone because it isn't permanent.
 
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