Replacing the tired 99v with new 98vhp in 2008 Kenworth. New radio came tuned & ready to go with 50amp glass fuse @ radio end with the quick connect. Do I need another 50a fuse @ battery connection? Is it ok to run hot from the connection under hood?(2-6 gauge cables already connected to this) Or should I go direct from battery. How about negative cable-same question. I've done quite a few radios in past-still consider myself a rookie when I have alot of $$$ invested. Just reading thru this forum I can see there's alot of know-how I would like to learn. Thanks to all for any input!
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98 VHP install in 2008 KW
- Thread starter ceeja1
- Start date
i have 98 as well, great radio. do yourself a favor and do it right. i went down and bought a set of hevy jumper cables and used them as my hot and ground wires . run direct to battery. you do not need any other fuses. if you dont use jumper cable wire get some heavy #6 stranded wire like welding cable. this radio needs a good solid no b.s. 12 volt feed. it draws big amps. i use mine with a wilson 1000 roof mount on top of my pick up cab. this radio blows smoke. good luck.
B
BOOTY MONSTER
Guest
you need a fuse on the positive terminal of your power line for the radio at the battery . this particular fuse will not be to protect the radio , but to protect your vehicle in the event your + power line gets worn or cut through its covering going through the vehicle . that way instead of the power line heating up and potentially catching the vehicle on fire the fuse will blow protecting the vehicle .
always , always , always fuse the positive terminal lead of the power line for your aftermarket equipment at the battery .
always , always , always fuse the positive terminal lead of the power line for your aftermarket equipment at the battery .
I agree, one fuse as close to the battery as possible and one at the radio. Jumper cables work but fine multistrand wire from a stereo shop works better. If you already have #6 wire to the battery or power post by the battery your good. Just add that second fuse.
Ditto, Ditto, Ditto! Fuse that positive lead at the battery. Wouldn't want see your truck burnt to the tires on the side of the interstate.
I have a Redneck tuned 98, you will love it. Only thing you will have to worry about is the typical Galaxy cold solder joints if you got one of the Monday morning radios.
if you did, it is usually an easy fix. Hook that bad boy up and enjoy!
I have a Redneck tuned 98, you will love it. Only thing you will have to worry about is the typical Galaxy cold solder joints if you got one of the Monday morning radios.
if you did, it is usually an easy fix. Hook that bad boy up and enjoy!
Fuses don't cause enough resistance to be cause for concern, but a short in an unfused + line will cause fire.
Fuses don't cause enough resistance to be cause for concern, but a short in an unfused + line will cause fire.
I've seen up to 300 watts less output on a 6 transistor amp due to having a fuse installed so that is cause for concern.
I'm not advocating the use of no fuse but advocating the proper routing of the supply line as to insure safe operation of a high output rig, one suggestion is to incase each supply line separately in their own conduit to eliminate any chaffing or breach of the outer sheathing of the supply line and by running them separated as suggested they won't rub on each other.
In a properly routed supply scenario there is really no need for a fuse at the battery but do use the one installed inline at the radio.
There is no fuse on the engine starter battery cable on any large truck and none of them start fires and these cables intermittently carry up to 1800 amps DC.
Do not use cheap supply line like that transparent crap walmart sells to hook up audio amplifiers, go to a auto parts store and buy good battery cable which will have the heat a chaffing protection needed for these types of applications.
Mack, I am gonna call you out on this one. I had never really thought about it, but I am going to stick my neck out and say that if the correct size and type fuse is used, resistance should be negligible.
When I get home from visiting my daughter in GA on Saturday I am going to break the meter and some fuses out and see just how much resistance a fuse offers.
This could turn out to be a good learning experience.
When I get home from visiting my daughter in GA on Saturday I am going to break the meter and some fuses out and see just how much resistance a fuse offers.
This could turn out to be a good learning experience.
Yeah Pro, I've run a fuse inline on a 6 pill and without it I saw 300 more watts on my cherokee meter plus the fuse holder would make quite a bit of heat, hell it began to melt the plastic holder housing.
I know what you're thinking, mack used to light a fuse and holder, it was a 200 amp blade style fuse and holder.
I know what you're thinking, mack used to light a fuse and holder, it was a 200 amp blade style fuse and holder.
You want a fuse at the radio to protect the radio as well as at the battery to protect the car. I used a circuit breaker at the battery end that would switch back on when safe. Transfers use them for the battery in the trailer box. It can over heat on an up hill pull but will turn back on when cool enough. No need to change fuse if blown. At the radio though I always used a fuse, easily accessible. More is not better here go with the minimum max. current draw.
OK Mack, I was going to go all Engineer all over you and post up resistance readings for everything I could lay my hands on here at my bench, but after getting started checking resistance on ATO and Buss glass fuses I noticed one constant on all of the fuses.
Resistance through the fuse is almost nonexistent if the fuse blades or ends are clean and free of any oxidation. If they are not clean, resistance is anywhere from very little to off the scale.
The second finding is type and condition of the fuse holder with the same results.
I would suspect that you had some type of connectivity problem in your fuse holder.
I do intend to check the output on my Redneck tuned 98VHP with the fuse at the battery in place and bypassed, even though I have never felt it even the slightest bit warm after wearing the 98 out on high power.
As soon as I get time to check my install i will let you know if i see a output difference.
Resistance through the fuse is almost nonexistent if the fuse blades or ends are clean and free of any oxidation. If they are not clean, resistance is anywhere from very little to off the scale.
The second finding is type and condition of the fuse holder with the same results.
I would suspect that you had some type of connectivity problem in your fuse holder.
I do intend to check the output on my Redneck tuned 98VHP with the fuse at the battery in place and bypassed, even though I have never felt it even the slightest bit warm after wearing the 98 out on high power.
As soon as I get time to check my install i will let you know if i see a output difference.
B
BOOTY MONSTER
Guest
300 watts didn't make a difference for me locally (or seemingly on skip either) between a pair of 1446's and four 2879's doing 200 and 500 watts respectively . i think most folks would expect 1000 watts or more from a 6 pill so a 300 watts difference there will only have a difference on the meter , not the signal ........ going the results i got . what were your actual numbers mack ?
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