Thanks for taking the time to read what was most likely to many word's to exsplan why I will not be racking my brain on who's choke design I (turns diameter) should go with.
The idea of having to coil, measure, wiretie then fasten the finished choke to the mast sevral times before I get it right (if I manage to get it right at all) is, disparaging at best.
I haven't read g3gxg's article yet but will emidietly upon posting this reply.
I suspect his choke design will vary to a certain degree of all the others who have tested several design's and not only disagreed with all the design's created by the other mathamatical antenna geniuses that already have determined the correct amount an 11 meter (27 mhz) choke (ugly balun) turns and diameter it positively unequivocally 100% should be.
Then posted his perfect design for anyone who needs to build a choke the way it should be built and the exact placement of this choke below the feed point, 24"'s, 21, 18 and 3/4:'s. It's frustrating because I want to do it right the first time.
Truth be told If I had to try it a couple of times in order to get it right, great!
This reminds me of a qso going down on 38 lsb about using 18' of coax between your rig and Wilson mag mount, then someone qsk's and says "no it's 17'. Then two hours later someone says those coax mesurments when installing a setup in your auto are bs. That subject like most has been beaten with a stick so many times and even though it's been established how much length of cable should be used is the amount that's needed to reach from you Wilson to Your radio is the correct amount (according to the last article I read).
I'm not intested in the exact length of coax needed in that situation because I have no interest in installing a mobile rig.
Now the choke is something that's gonna make my antenna perform the best it could and is something I'm totally convinced of, but it's the design of it for LMR 400 (or any particular size coax) for use on 27 mhz that's driving me up a tree.
I know I'll eventually be convinced by one or more of the authors and designers that his is the correct way one should prepare and where below the feed point it should it be placed.
That has yet to happen. As a matter of fact the only thing I've gotten out of all the posts and links to sites describing the correct turns and dimensions of a cb radio (ugly balun) choke using LMR 400 is confused.
The idea of having to coil, measure, wiretie then fasten the finished choke to the mast sevral times before I get it right (if I manage to get it right at all) is, disparaging at best.
I haven't read g3gxg's article yet but will emidietly upon posting this reply.
I suspect his choke design will vary to a certain degree of all the others who have tested several design's and not only disagreed with all the design's created by the other mathamatical antenna geniuses that already have determined the correct amount an 11 meter (27 mhz) choke (ugly balun) turns and diameter it positively unequivocally 100% should be.
Then posted his perfect design for anyone who needs to build a choke the way it should be built and the exact placement of this choke below the feed point, 24"'s, 21, 18 and 3/4:'s. It's frustrating because I want to do it right the first time.
Truth be told If I had to try it a couple of times in order to get it right, great!
This reminds me of a qso going down on 38 lsb about using 18' of coax between your rig and Wilson mag mount, then someone qsk's and says "no it's 17'. Then two hours later someone says those coax mesurments when installing a setup in your auto are bs. That subject like most has been beaten with a stick so many times and even though it's been established how much length of cable should be used is the amount that's needed to reach from you Wilson to Your radio is the correct amount (according to the last article I read).
I'm not intested in the exact length of coax needed in that situation because I have no interest in installing a mobile rig.
Now the choke is something that's gonna make my antenna perform the best it could and is something I'm totally convinced of, but it's the design of it for LMR 400 (or any particular size coax) for use on 27 mhz that's driving me up a tree.
I know I'll eventually be convinced by one or more of the authors and designers that his is the correct way one should prepare and where below the feed point it should it be placed.
That has yet to happen. As a matter of fact the only thing I've gotten out of all the posts and links to sites describing the correct turns and dimensions of a cb radio (ugly balun) choke using LMR 400 is confused.
Read the full page.
http://www.karinya.net/g3txq/chokes/
Steve G3TXQ has done a lot of experimentation into baluns, ununs and common mode RF. The chart I posted is one he did using proper measurement techniques and equipment. As far as I know he's the only one who has published such data.
It is a necessity. Whenever you're using an unbalanced feeder, aka coax, you need one to prevent the coax becoming part of the antenna even when you're using a perfectly balanced dipole antenna.
The problem with it is that in many cases there will be no noticeable difference to the end user so they think that its doing nothing because noise on RX and RFI is the only measurement they use and that was the same after they installed a RF choke as before they did. They don't ever measure common mode on the coax and, in the case of balanced antennas like yagis and dipoles, the radiation pattern as it is altered by not having a RF choke and the coax becoming part of the antenna.
Without a RF choke throw 100W into your antenna, get a small flourescent tube and place it near the coax at various points and you'll see it light to various degrees with no other source of power. That is proof of the existence of common mode. Fit your RF choke at the feedpoint and repeat the experiment. Depending on the effectiveness of the choking and assuming its been built properly you'll see either the tube not lighting at all or lighting far dimmer thus proving the choking is working.
If it helps, think of using a RF choke as "best practice". Do it for the same reasons you don't just take your coax, strip back the insulation and just shove the wire into the antenna socket, holding it in place with matches and insulation tape and instead solder a PL259 on the end even though the other way works.