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ABOUT BUYING A BRAND NEW TEXAS STAR
- Thread starter Sonar
- Start date
Go with a TNT they are pretty good amps from what I hear
4 pill
http://www.xforceamps.com/item/Straight-4Pill---Biased---Xtra-Duty---Hi-Drive---T600HD-163
1x4
http://www.xforceamps.com/item/1x4Pill---Biased---Xtra-Duty---Low-Drive---T800-M-164
6pill
http://www.xforceamps.com/item/Straight-6Pill---Biased---Xtra-Duty---Hi-Drive---T1200HD-M-166
4 pill
http://www.xforceamps.com/item/Straight-4Pill---Biased---Xtra-Duty---Hi-Drive---T600HD-163
1x4
http://www.xforceamps.com/item/1x4Pill---Biased---Xtra-Duty---Low-Drive---T800-M-164
6pill
http://www.xforceamps.com/item/Straight-6Pill---Biased---Xtra-Duty---Hi-Drive---T1200HD-M-166
I do understand that.
When I mentioned the 1:4 I was referring to the readings I get with the Amplifier in use.
If the 1:4 only applies to the output of one's transmitter before an amplifier is used than I am not operating 1:4.
My output with the amplifier in use is 125 dk 500 pep. Hence the 1:4 reference. Thanks. 73's
The only one that'll work for him would be the 1 driving 4. The other two are high drive. I'm going to do some research on class b amplifiers. I myself decided to stick with my sweep tube amps I already own and use. They take up lots of space, get hot (very hot) but until there's no one left for me to send them to when they need service I'm going to keep using them. I think running them the way I do keeps them happy. Thanks. 73's
For long term use I wouldn't be comfortable with any amp that's using a driver stage into four pills, if getting above 500 watts is really that important I would consider calling someone like X-Force to see about having a B or AB biased 2x6 or 2x8 built and run it a bit on the easy side.
Shadetree Mechanic
Delaware Base Station 808
X-Force has 6 pill TNT that can be ran with their 2 pill TNT driver amp. I was thinking that this would give me the options of running just the 2 pill for local and both for DX. Kind of the best of both worlds if driving one amp with another doesn't complicate things too much. Would there be any benefit to have a 2x6 all in one unit?
You understand that a 2 watt carrier modulated to 100% is 8 watts pep. We can keep a clean signal go beyond 100% positive peaks and keep the negative peaks below 100% without any flat topping if we have plenty of headroom and can compress the negative peaks or run a rig with a balanced modulator. Since you don't care what it looks like on the scope you can disregard all this. If your negative peaks are hitting baseline you are overmodulated and splattering but may not be strong enough to bother anyone.
My point was don't be so picky about the amplifier class when you don't even care what the signal looks like on a scope. I have my share of dirty overmodulated radios connected to class C amps connected to class C amps. They get good reports and my old truck has shut down a few base stations but it's dirty. It looks like a picket fence on the scope but the local cbers love the audio and have had me do a few radios like that for them. That's what I mean by calling a spade a spade.
I want trying to put you down or knock your equipment so I hope you didn't take offense. I just try to be realistic about things. If all you're worried about is how something sounds on the air, your friend only uses AM and don't care about the scope why are you advising him not to buy a class C amp? Good luck with whatever you and your friend choose to buy.
1:4 is a rule of thumb. It applies when a single tone is used to modulate an AM carrier. The human voice is more complex. It can be a larger or smaller ratio.
If the ratio changes after it's gone through the amplifier the amp is not linear or is being ran past the point it is capable of being linear. This causes distortion on AM and SSB. It may sound just fine on the air but by definition it is distortion and increases IMD....splatter.
Always keep in mind that whatever your output is you'll need to quadruple it in order to gain 1 s-unit.
An example of this would be if your running a 500 watt amp, and showing 5 s-units on John Doe's meter you'll need to up that to 2000 Watts to get J.D's meter to show a 6. Is having to put out 1500 more watts than the 500 you're already running worth 1 s-unit? Not in my book.
IMO 300-500 watts will be as sufficient a gain from your stock 2-4 watt transceiver as you could get without getting out of control.
The best move you've made imo as a newbie was to get the vector 4000. 300-500 watts is gonna get you heard.
And that vector will have you hearing just fine.
Many people when first setting up get the "have to slam my 2000 watt peak reading meter into the corner". Thinking that more power is better.
300-500 is my sweet spot.
Everyone has their own ideas for a dream station.
Starting out with the 300-500 won't limit you. If you're not happy you could always get an amp with more output, but I'm sure you'll find 300-500 satisfactory.
My reason for repeating 300-500 is you'll find many different amp choices in that range. Especially on the second hand market.
There's a good reason for that. It gonna give you the biggest s-unit jump from stock (2-4 watts.) before the 2 kw area. If you find 500 watts isn't enough for you your best move would be getting a beam. Unless you plan on hanging out on channel 6 every second you spend on the air. You're doing great so far. Don't get cought up in trying to get your output meter to show 2000 watts just because it can read that ouput. It's not necessary!! Another thing I've never done was drive an amp with another one. If your heart's set on 1500 watts get an amp that'll do that with your transmitters output. 73''s PS. Keep asking questions. These guy's are extremely knowledgeable. And are always willing to help.
Not really, it'll just be the same as one amp driving another only with it all in one box.
I would just get the two pill and run it for a while, if you find that the couple hundred watts that gives you isn't enough then look into adding another amp behind it. One of the benefits of separate boxes is flexibility.
Shadetree Mechanic
Delaware Base Station 808
Yeah that's a lot of money for an extra S unit after 500w. I know the 4 pill would do great, but every time I would look at it I would say "Should have gotten the 6 pill" LOL My budget will determine what I can get and Strange Brew's idea of running the 2 pill for a while sounds like a good idea.
Bottom line is I think, that a Texas Star 500V will operate satisfactorily for your friend's application.
A 667V will also, it's just that the MOSFETS driver section can be an issue sometimes.
I have an old Northpoint CBS-1000 radio that dead keys at 3.5 watts and will "swing" up to about 10 watts. It drives the 500V to about 400 watts or so. Give or take a little. Works well together and talks DX pretty good using an old Turner SSB +2 power desk microphone.
The Texas Star 500V will work just fine. And yes, the DEI transistors that now come in them are lousy 2SC2879 transistors, but at this low drive input, they will work fine.
A 667V will also, it's just that the MOSFETS driver section can be an issue sometimes.
I have an old Northpoint CBS-1000 radio that dead keys at 3.5 watts and will "swing" up to about 10 watts. It drives the 500V to about 400 watts or so. Give or take a little. Works well together and talks DX pretty good using an old Turner SSB +2 power desk microphone.
The Texas Star 500V will work just fine. And yes, the DEI transistors that now come in them are lousy 2SC2879 transistors, but at this low drive input, they will work fine.
If your friend was considering a Texas Star 667 or a 500 then a TnT 350 or 600 would work just fine. Just because they are HD units that does not mean you have to drive them as such all the time. In the end he will have to buy what he wants, I would stay away from a new 667 though.