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antenna obstructions causing swr problems?

It sounds like more then one problem may be taking place here. The tingle you get when connecting jumpers with the radio off is not RF. An RF burn related to poor grounding would only take place while you were transmitting. For some reason it seems you have voltage between the chassis ground of your equipment and earth ground. Since the house has older wiring, there is a chance this problem may go away if you reverse the polarity of the AC line cord on the power supply by plugging it in the other way. This will only work in the plug is not polarized. If the plug is polarized you might want to check to be sure the outlet does not have the neutral wire reversed.

None of this is relates to your TVI or SWR problems. Unfortunately this may have more to do with your choice of antenna and perhaps its mounting location. The Ringo Rangers have long been noted for RFI issues as a result of their inability to decouple the antenna from the mast and coax cable. This can cause a significant amount of radiation to be present on both the mast and coax. Causing the SWR to fluctuate simply by moving the coax cable in some cases.

This coax and mast radiation could be intensified by the chain link fence the mast is attached to. Anytime we have loosely touching metals conducting RF such as the chain links in the fence, it can introduce more serious RFI issues due to the possibility of the poor connections rectifying the RF. Once the RF is rectified, it contains many more harmonics that can be reradiated off the fence. Since the Ringo is an end fed vertical with no radials, I suspect it is designed to use the mast and or coax as a counterpoise. In this case, isolating them may help with RFI but may also reduce your radiation efficiency and complicate your ability to achieve a good VSWR.

The Gain-Master might be a better choice for you if you're concerns are RFI, SWR, and the ability to cover both 10 and 11 meters. Although the cost and your relatively low mounting height may not be ideal with the GM. If you are willing to experiment with the Ringo, you may be able to get it to cover one band without the RFI and with a low SWR.

About the only effective way to decouple the mast and coax from the Ringo without killing the radiation efficiency by removing all of the counterpoise is to add some radials at the feedpoint. Three 1/4 wave radials attached to the ground at the feedpoint should be enough to do the trick. They can be anything from old steel whips to 1/4 wave wires with insulators and rope used as guy wires. They can be on any angle from 90 to 45 degrees however, the tap point on the tuning loop may require adjustment to match the impedance.

If that doesn't cure the problem 100% consider isolating the base from the mast and replacing the coax choke with ferrite beads of the correct mix for 27 MHz on the coax at the feedpoint. This type of choke often achieves a higher impedance to the CMC flowing on the coax without any of the resonance problems air wound choke can create.
 
The problem with adding radials is all around the antenna area is concrete. I had to drill thru it to add a ground rod. Are you sayinging isolate the antenna from the mast may help? My ac outlets are polarized but will check if the nuetral is reversed. This is a frustrating problem for sure.
 
I do believe that the antenna is too low and that it is being affected by the nearby roof and gutter. Second disconnect that fence from the mast.

Did you set the length of antenna by freqency? What frequency did you use? Attached is the chart shown on page 3 of the ar10's instruction booklet for that info if you don't have the booklet. I found it on line.

Looking at that info for center frequency and ranges and the specifications of antenna given on the last page and also attached, the antenna will not achieve a bandwidth into the 11 meter frequencies.

What would I do well, I would spend time and effort into getting it up as high as possible and see if that would help. I would also disconnect the fence that you have attached to the antenna at the bottom of the mast. The design of this antenna appears to me, after looking at the diagrams on the instruction booklet, to use both the coax and the mast as "counterpoise" and should be sufficient. If more counterpoise is needed it should be added in the form of a longer coax cable and taller mast and not the loose lattice type fence for the reasons shockwave mentioned.

If you want an antenna that is trouble free and will cover both 10 and 11 meters I would spend money on the Sirio Gain Master and on a tower or a push pole to get it up to at least 6 meters away from nearby objects or ground.

In so far as decoupling the antenna from mast by using 3 1/4 wave wires, whips or even aluminum tubing to provide the necessary counterpoise,,,What shockwave means is to add those to antenna at the feed point location up on top and not on the bottom. This would allow replacing the mast and coax as the counterpoise with out affecting the radiation pattern but your are getting into redesigning antenna.

I would try elevation first, it is money well spent for this antenna or any other omni or beam antenna you may wish to install any way in the future.

The instruction booklet mentions securing the feed line and ff tuning stub to the mast by the use of tape. This may be nothing but can't hurt if you have not done it.

As far as the meter I don't know how well it could be trusted outside the 4-5 watts that it was prolly designed for on cb.

Well let us know how you are getting along with this. Best of luck.
 

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I tuned it for 28.4000 being the center frequency. Not sure I can get it off the fence, I am using one of the fence post to clamp the mast to. I have limited mounting options and had my Shakespear big stick in the same location. Some one suggested isolating the antenna from the mast. Maybe I could insulate the mast from the fence post with some sort of insulator, rubber inner tube or something. I used a tie wrap to secure the tunning stub and coax to the mast.
 
it won't hurt to try that. check your swr after that too.

then add your additional 5 foot mast your were talking about and check swr after that too.(a taller mast at some point should give you a decent match as shown on their specs as the design of this antenna uses mast for counterpoise)

You did follow the assembly instructions? and You set the length at 200"? Which should let you run 28.000-28.800 with max swr of 1.5:1.

one change at a time so you can try and see the effects of each.
 
Yes the length is about 200 to 198 or so, the swr is almost 1.1 at 28.4000. I think at 200 is was a hair higher so I shortened it a couple inches.
 
very well

so making it a bit shorter prolly changed the center frequency just a bit, but for explanation let say you are pretty much as advertised at a center freq of 28.400 with an swr of 1.5 to 1 bandwidth of 28.00 to 28.800.

as you work away from this center freq, whether up or down, then you will see the swr increase in that range.
these are the edges that mack spoke about in previous thread but your antenna is resonant at some freq and it is likely between 28.4 and 28.5.

This resonance and center frequency for the design of the antenna is controlled by the length of the radiator and consequently affects your bandwidth. Thinking of it as your limits of operation within a reasonable efficiency.
 
Well I added a 5 foot mast and raised the antenna up, the swr's actually went up a few tenths. I took the extra 5 foot mast off after that. I put the current choke I have right at the antenna and it really made no difference. I also tried to insulate the antenna from the fence post but it must be grounded because it still shows continuity to the mast. The brackets are now insulated from ground but the mast is not. I took the current choke off and seem to have better swr's with out it now and less tvi. This makes no sense to me.
 
that sure is strange:headbang`
it makes no sense why it would want more counterpoise from the chain link fence but not from more mast!

anyone?
 
Well I am not going to get excited till more time has past but, I had some 10 year old weathered rg8x, about 18 or 20 feet. I added it in line then connected it to my current choke and swr's are way low, no tvi unless I crank the amp to high and the swr's only vary a few tenths or less depending on power level. I chalk that up to cheap swr meter and repeatability. I tried my old radio shack swr meter also and pretty much the same as the workman brand other than down on 11 meters the radio shack shows high swr like I would suspect since the antenna is tuned for 10 meters. The workman shows about the same swr's on 10 and 11 meters. That can't be right because the ar10 is not that broad banded. I am going to see how it works for a while and then get another length of rg213u to replace the rg8x if it works out. Wonder what length I should get?
 

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