I appreciate all the comments. Everyone is very kind. Thanks. I'll get to bonding and such lol. I'll let the cat out of the bag a little. Radio is a FT-857d
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Anyone running the Sirio P5000 in their mobile
- Thread starter Supspt454
- Start date
I run FT450D w/dx500.....hf rig is only way to go.I appreciate all the comments. Everyone is very kind. Thanks. I'll get to bonding and such lol. I'll let the cat out of the bag a little. Radio is a FT-857d
You mention wiring to the battery. Are you wiring the ground/negative wire to the battery as well? This is a no-no, not good practice especially on modern cars with smart charging. Instead you should run the negative power wire to a point on the body/chassis adjacent to where the main negative wire from the battery connects to the body/chassis.
http://k0bg.com/wiring.html#power
It could be that by not doing that and going straight to the battery you're creating a ground loop when you touch the bracket onto the metal bodywork of the vehicle.
I run them on my semi, love em.
I have used Wilson, k40, francis, predator 10k, hustler and many others. In the power level I run I could not be happier. They have excellent receive, and can take 800 watts everyday all day.
Just beware these are very tall. The tips on my semi are at 14 feet 3 inches.
Turned to 1.0 across the cb band. 1.7 at 26.355 and 1.6 at 28.605.
Hope this helps some.
I have used Wilson, k40, francis, predator 10k, hustler and many others. In the power level I run I could not be happier. They have excellent receive, and can take 800 watts everyday all day.
Just beware these are very tall. The tips on my semi are at 14 feet 3 inches.
Turned to 1.0 across the cb band. 1.7 at 26.355 and 1.6 at 28.605.
Hope this helps some.
heres an old trick to try. have your radio on with car on..
unscrew ya coax is the noise still present? if so its coming thru ya
power wires . if radio goes silent then its ya antenna picking it up.
unscrew ya coax is the noise still present? if so its coming thru ya
power wires . if radio goes silent then its ya antenna picking it up.
I've done this. It come in through antenna. However, reading about the mentioned ground loop effect may be causing it. Worth a try. I'll move my ground to the chassis tomorrow and see what happens
After reading the link you've shared this actually makes perfect sense. I've always ran directly to battery. I had a jeep with electrical problems every time I keyed the mic. Windshield wipers going off when transmitting etc... now that I think about it, my 2004 GMC truck is drive by wire throttle body and when I key up with power it cuts the engine like I'm flooring the gas and letting off. Haha. Looks like I'll be moving my ground first.
Err that is common mode RFI causing that. Common mode RFI is caused by an inadequate RF ground, not electrical ground, so shifting the negative power wire won't change that. Basically an antenna system needs a source to draw electrons from and return them to. When you have a poor RF ground the source and return is inadequate so the coax, the CB, the microphone and any connected wiring ended up being used as a source and return for electrons and therefore part of the RF ground as the antenna system tries to compensate. The more power you try to put out the worse the symptoms are as your RF ground is even more inadequate for the power you're trying to work with.
I bet if you put on a few clip on Mix31 ferrites on the coax on the outside of the vehicle near the antenna to choke off the common mode RFI you'd see those problems disappear but the bad part is the SWR would go up and this would be confirmation that the coax was forming part of the RF ground which you don't want. When you have a decent RF ground you don't have these problems, using ferrites makes no difference and neither does altering the length of the coax. Unfortunately because RF is AC and multimeters/ohm meters are DC you cannot use a multimeter to test whether you've got a good RF ground, you need an antenna analyser.
I have one, I also use a QD in between the base and the AT. I use a 3 magnet MFJ mount on the top of my pickup cab. SWRs are pretty good although I can maybe tweak them a little more (I had to cut about an inch off the top). Works great and I can hear skip coming in. Even spoke to Mexico from Central Florida, so it works great. I have the bottom loaded Sirio 5000 in Camo to match my green pickup
That shows your magmount is getting there for providing a good RF ground, better than a single mag but with my car using a fixed mount on the roof and having done the bonding I mentioned I had to cut mine by 4 inches which got it resonant to 27.600MHz with zero reactance (X=0). Prior to getting the dremel to the whip it was resonant below 26MHz at stock length fully shortened. I get S0 noise when I'm driving, can hear stations who are S0 too and can hear stations from over 40/50 miles away. Quite a few people refuse to believe I only run 4W.
M0GVZ, thanks for the reply. I plan on doing the bonding/grounding. Trying to figure if I should go with braided straps, or just use some wiring. Currently working on another project and have one in the mailbox (Amazon delivery) which should take me maybe an hour or two to knock out. Which fixed mount did you work with?
For a good fixed or hard mount, look st the Breedlove mounts. The 3" one hole mount works very well with the Sirio 5000 base load antenna or even the trucker one. They have a bunch of different mounts, and all are very well built and work well. I installed a Breedlove 3" one hole mount and a Sirio 5000 base load antenna. Mounted on an E350 work van. With a uniden 980 doing 8-10 watts on SSB, I could communicate with a base about 35 miles away consistently. Your mileage will vary depending on height of the vehicle and also how well you install things.
Also use good coax and connectors. And for bonding 1/2" braided ground will work. I used 1" for my exhaust, and 3/4" for most of the large body parts. 1/4"-1/2" on other parts. Good coax braid will work for small places where you may need something small in diameter as well.
Hope some of this helps. MOGVZ knows more about this stuff than I do, listen to what he tells you. I'm not saying IDK anything. Just not nearly as much as many here on the forums!!!
Also use good coax and connectors. And for bonding 1/2" braided ground will work. I used 1" for my exhaust, and 3/4" for most of the large body parts. 1/4"-1/2" on other parts. Good coax braid will work for small places where you may need something small in diameter as well.
Hope some of this helps. MOGVZ knows more about this stuff than I do, listen to what he tells you. I'm not saying IDK anything. Just not nearly as much as many here on the forums!!!
Braided straps. RF flows over the surface of a conductor, not through it. To get the same conductivity as using flattened braid from some scrap RG213 you'd need a cable that was 0000 or 4/0 AWG which as you would agree isn't really practical and would be far more expensive than just getting some RG213 offcuts and using the braid from them. Even braid taken from RG58 is far more efficient than using wire.
As my learned friend above illustrates, the longer the strap the wider it wants to be.
Bringing back an old thread with a complete different set up. Same vehicle. Same results. Running a Stryker 955 now, with a Wilson 5000 roof top hard mount in the roof. (04 GMC regular cab Sierra 4x4). Sanded the inside of cab portion of roof where the hard mount attaches. Everything is RG8X. I’ve got the coax cut down from antenna to just behind and between the two seats fed into a 2 pill HD. 6’ jumper to radio. (No extra coax). SWR is a flat 1.0:1 from 26.775-26.755. Radio is basically stock power settings. Driving about 5 watts DK into the box. When switching on the amp, and modulating, I get the same issue as I had mentioned previously with the throttle body acting erratically and causing the truck to jerk. Hood, doors, bed are all bonded.
Assuming no issues with RF grounding and no RF getting into the wiring (have you tried choking the power cables to the amp??) then it may just be a case that the electronics in the vehicle aren't shielded well against RF so exceed a certain power and you'll have issues. It could be that you're unlucky enough to have a length of cable in the wiring loom between devices that makes it a great antenna for 27MHz. You may need to start going round the wiring throwing clip on Mix31 or Mix43 ferrites. I'd certainly throw one on the wiring to the throttle body, ideally seeing if you can get a turn or two through the ferrite, assuming that's what is throwing up the fault code.
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