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Anytone 6666

yeah, I know this is a 4+ year old post but hopefully someone can benefit from my reply.



Exactly - Except you can have both at the same time.

Take one of Franklin's 10.695 Channel Guard kits or make your own and remove the stage coupling cap right after the NB and install it there. Instead of setting it up for a zero gain/loss, mod your RF Gain to max, and use the RF gain knob to control the +DC (13.8v) to the circuit. Adjust incoming +DC voltage so that when the RG gain knob is at 12 o'clock, you have zero gain/loss (keep incoming signal low - below AGC turn on). Also, doing it this way, you don't have to re-calibrate your S meter. Keep the NB on. This way, the signal going into the circuit has been "cleaned" up. You may need to change the value of the transistor bias resistor to get a linear response as you increase/decrease +DC to the circuit.

With the RF Gain @ 12 o'clock, you get "normal" max sensitivity and -100dB @ 10 KHz selectivity. Turn the RF Gain CCW and you reduce the sensitivity but increase your selectivity even more. Turn the RF Gain CW and get an increase in sensitivity (past the normal max sensitivity) and still retain very high selectivity. And yes, you can hear signals that otherwise you wouldn't. Now whether you can get them to hear you is another matter...:p.

I usually keep my RF Gain at 12 o'clock but when there is a station that is right in my noise level, I dial it up and pull him out with ease. It has more sensitivity and selectivity than any of my HF rigs.

Basically, greater dynamic range, increased selectivity, and increased sensitivity (variable, clean, attenuator/preamp) for any radio with a 10.695 I.F. stage.

About the Channel Guard from www.cbcintl.com:
The CHANNEL GUARD combines an IF amplifier stage with two high-Q crystal elements. You install it at an early IF signal point, before the signal branches off to the separate AM, FM, or SSB detectors. The result — razor-sharp selectivity in every mode. Since the “Q” (Selectivity Factor) of a crystal is many times higher than the normal tuned IF transformers, the strength of interfering signals even slightly off the center IF frequency drop off very quickly. Bleedover is greatly reduced.

FEATURES: · Provides up to 100 dB adjacent-channel rejection. This is much better than the majority of CB transceivers, which typically specify only –40 to –60 dB. A factor of “100 dB” means that any signal outside the normal 10 KHz CB channel spacing is reduced in strength by a factor of 10 billion from channel center. No reduction in receiver sensitivity. In fact, the CHANNEL GUARD adds one stage of amplification at the most critical point—right in between IF filtering stages. You may even hear those weak signals that you missed before.
You got me thinking now, glad I found this again.
 
well... i got a q 6666 and clarifier is lousy. searched menu cant find anything to cure its ailement.its set to recieve. when anybody talks its impossible to clear anybody up. might be why they cheep and i got miss from hit n miss
 
well... i got a q 6666 and clarifier is lousy. searched menu cant find anything to cure its ailement.its set to recieve. when anybody talks its impossible to clear anybody up. might be why they cheep and i got miss from hit n miss
What is wrong with the clarifier? It either works or it doesn't. Which version of the Q6? The original Q6 clarifier "center slot" is at around 3 o'clock, not 12 as one might expect. This changed in the Pro version.
 
yeah, I know this is a 4+ year old post but hopefully someone can benefit from my reply.



Exactly - Except you can have both at the same time.

Take one of Franklin's 10.695 Channel Guard kits or make your own and remove the stage coupling cap right after the NB and install it there. Instead of setting it up for a zero gain/loss, mod your RF Gain to max, and use the RF gain knob to control the +DC (13.8v) to the circuit. Adjust incoming +DC voltage so that when the RG gain knob is at 12 o'clock, you have zero gain/loss (keep incoming signal low - below AGC turn on). Also, doing it this way, you don't have to re-calibrate your S meter. Keep the NB on. This way, the signal going into the circuit has been "cleaned" up. You may need to change the value of the transistor bias resistor to get a linear response as you increase/decrease +DC to the circuit.

With the RF Gain @ 12 o'clock, you get "normal" max sensitivity and -100dB @ 10 KHz selectivity. Turn the RF Gain CCW and you reduce the sensitivity but increase your selectivity even more. Turn the RF Gain CW and get an increase in sensitivity (past the normal max sensitivity) and still retain very high selectivity. And yes, you can hear signals that otherwise you wouldn't. Now whether you can get them to hear you is another matter...:p.

I usually keep my RF Gain at 12 o'clock but when there is a station that is right in my noise level, I dial it up and pull him out with ease. It has more sensitivity and selectivity than any of my HF rigs.

Basically, greater dynamic range, increased selectivity, and increased sensitivity (variable, clean, attenuator/preamp) for any radio with a 10.695 I.F. stage.

About the Channel Guard from www.cbcintl.com:
The CHANNEL GUARD combines an IF amplifier stage with two high-Q crystal elements. You install it at an early IF signal point, before the signal branches off to the separate AM, FM, or SSB detectors. The result — razor-sharp selectivity in every mode. Since the “Q” (Selectivity Factor) of a crystal is many times higher than the normal tuned IF transformers, the strength of interfering signals even slightly off the center IF frequency drop off very quickly. Bleedover is greatly reduced.

FEATURES: · Provides up to 100 dB adjacent-channel rejection. This is much better than the majority of CB transceivers, which typically specify only –40 to –60 dB. A factor of “100 dB” means that any signal outside the normal 10 KHz CB channel spacing is reduced in strength by a factor of 10 billion from channel center. No reduction in receiver sensitivity. In fact, the CHANNEL GUARD adds one stage of amplification at the most critical point—right in between IF filtering stages. You may even hear those weak signals that you missed before.
Since you can't buy the ChannelGuard anymore, I think it is OK to add this info to the post so anyone that wants to try this can make their own.

To re-iterate: This turns your radio's "RF Gain" control into a variable preamp/attenuator that is super clean and has great S/N Ratio. It also gives your radio 100+ dB adjacent channel rejection.

Here are the steps:
Parts needed:

1 - Adj channel circuit with the correct IF frequency crystals (10.695, 7.8, 11.1125, etc.) that match the radio.
1 - small pcb 10K VR

Equipment needed - Signal Generator

Determine the correct place to add the circuit to the radio's RX chain. It needs to be after the NB circuit but before the signal branches off to the separate AM, FM, or SSB detectors. This is usually a small coupling capacitor used to couple the RX stages.

Setup your radio in your favorite operating mode & Freq. (nb/anl/hicut/tone) on or off and RF gain set to max.

Steps:
Inject a signal from the SG that results in a "1 S unit" on the S-meter. Analog meter - exactly on the mark; Digital meter - the indicator just lights up. You don't want the AGC kicking in.

Record the output level of the SG. You will need this later. Disconnect it.

Modify the RF Gain circuit gain so it is permanently at max gain.

If the RG gain pot has wires to it, trace the high side and the wiper back to the circuit board and unsolder the wires and put a jumper where they were. Add a resistor at that point to ground that is of equal value of the RG Gain pot. If a newer radio and the RF gain is mounted to a PCB and has traces going to the 3 pot leads, try to leave them intact and just trace the circuits back and modify the RF gain circuit on the circuit board. You will need to cut the trace or a jumper wire on the high side and wiper to isolate the circuit from the RF gain control.

Next add the adj. channel circuit to the RX chain.

The "in" goes to the upstream side of the RX chain; the "out" , to the downstream side. Usually just remove the coupling capacitor and use the 2 holes. In the "standard" (non Deluxe version) Uniden UPD-858 SSB chassis, L6 is missing and just has a jumper wire across it. You can remove the jumper wire and use those 2 holes for the in & out. If you normally run with the NB on (preferable), make sure you add the circuit after the NB circuit output where it comes back into the RX chain. This greatly "cleans up the signal" which helps with the S/N ratio.

Connect one end of the 10K pcb VR to a switched 12v source (output of radio's on/off switch). The other end goes to ground and the wiper connects to the high side of the RF Gain pot. The wiper of the RF Gain pot connects to the Vcc input on the adj. channel circuit. The low side of the RF gain pot should be connected to ground.

Set the RF Gain knob to 12:00.

Connect the SG back up and inject the same signal that generated a 1 S-unit reading earlier. Adjust the 10K vr so that you get a 1 S-unit reading again on the S meter. This results in a no gain/loss situation (equal to RF gain set to max) when the RF Gain control is at 12:00.

Done.

Turning the RF gain CW from 12:00 and you now have a variable preamp.

Turning the RF Gain CCW from 12:00 and you now have a variable attenuator.

If the amplification/attenuation isn't as linear as you like, the biasing resistor on the 2N3904 (22K in adj. channel circuit) can be changed to a different value.

Channel Guard schematic.jpg
Good Luck
 
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What is wrong with the clarifier? It either works or it doesn't. Which version of the Q6? The original Q6 clarifier "center slot" is at around 3 o'clock, not 12 as one might expect. This changed in the Pro version.
you can never get that off frequency sound out. go very easy and this radio does not clarify right. ive reset reset many times.tried all settings and never gets dead on where you can fully understand anybody
 
you can never get that off frequency sound out. go very easy and this radio does not clarify right. ive reset reset many times.tried all settings and never gets dead on where you can fully understand anybody
Have you tried using the 10 Hz tuning steps? Your radio may be off freq from the display. You also did not say what version radio you have.
 
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If it's the q6 pro, at first I thought mine was screwed until I realized the repeater setting was turned on.

But as mentioned above, sharing which version would make a huge difference in guesses.
 
@Rwb - Did you try the procedure I posted in post #115? Turn the clarifier Off when doing the procedure. Afterwards, make sure the clarifier is set to "RT" in the menu.
 
@Rwb - Did you try the procedure I posted in post #115? Turn the clarifier Off when doing the procedure. Afterwards, make sure the clarifier is set to "RT" in the menu.
its first version. i removed it from car n set er on bench hooked up. several resets and got it very close. ive treid what you posted. ive got it close nuff to say the old cheep midland 23 channel ssb radio recive quality not the 2024 quality recive . im leaving it there .
 

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