Ask first!

[redbeast]

Ok, "stupid is as stupid does"; need to check the plug wiring on an old turner.....no screw in barrel, and for the life of me can't remember how to get steel barrel off plastic end, thought it unscrewed, but don't want to break it first, then ask. Any help?

 

[2RT307]

Should be a tiny set screw in the plastic housing. Remove it, then unscrew the housing.

73,
Brett

 

[redbeast]

Should be a tiny set screw in the plastic housing. Remove it, then unscrew the housing.

73,
Brett

In the plastic housing???? Ok, I'll check....just to clarify, the only plastic is where the pins go through, the barrel with the screw on retainer is steel. The only screws on this plug are for the cord retainer/strain relief. But I'll look again. Thanks for the get back Brett!

 

[2RT307]

Sorry, the screw goes from the metal through the plastic housing. Really small and easy to miss seeing it. (At least for me).

 

[midnight special]

and the barrel might not unscrew ,,, some just twisted one way then pulled off

 

[Captain Kilowatt]

and the barrel might not unscrew ,,, some just twisted one way then pulled off

YUP. Mine is slotted with a right angle in the slot. Remove the tiny screw and then twist the barrel about 1/8 of a turn and pull straight off.

 

[vkrules]

The little screw is partially hidden under the retaining ring. Very easy to miss

 

[Captain Kilowatt]

It may pull straight out with a slight twist or it may unscrew completely from the end.

 

[2RT307]

It may pull straight out with a slight twist or it may unscrew completely from the end.


View attachment 21142

Yes sir, I forgot there are two main styles. Good pic!

73,
Brett

 

[redbeast]

Yes sir, I forgot there are two main styles. Good pic!

73,
Brett

Yup, I've taken those apart a lot, most will have a small tab and slot that you turn about 1/16th turn after the set screw is out. But this barrel doesn't have a set screw at all, just the two screws for strain relief. I've seen these before in the "old days",and know there's a way, but caan't remember how I did it.....didn't want to grab the plastic with pliers to see if it just unscrewed in case I broke it. Yeah, good pic CK, but the only thing I don't have is the set screw.

 

[Captain Kilowatt]

There was an OLD connector that had a pair of plastic tabs that locked under a ring IIRC. Post up a picture or two. That might help jog a memory.

 

[redbeast]

There was an OLD connector that had a pair of plastic tabs that locked under a ring IIRC. Post up a picture or two. That might help jog a memory.

 

[redbeast]

Ok, here they are. Just know I have done these before, but just can't remember...and don't want to ruin it.Need to check pin connections, this mics been on my cobras for at least 30 yrs.

 

[Tallman]

Hold the connector with the black part of the connector pointed down and then look around for a small Philips head screw. Your photos did a good job hiding it. The threaded collar was hiding it. Take it out then take the cable clamp off of the back side and it should come apart.

 

[redbeast]

Hold the connector with the black part of the connector pointed down and then look around for a small Philips head screw. Your photos did a good job hiding it. The threaded collar was hiding it. Take it out then take the cable clamp off of the back side and it should come apart.

Tallman say, redbeast do. Bud, there just ain't nuthin' there. I know it's soundin' stupid, but it's true. Any screw would have to be MICROSCOPIC, there's a bunch of tiny pits from corrosion over the years, but that is it. Even scraped it down with my knife blade to make sure it wasn't worn in, but the chances of that are nil. I just know it will be something stupid, not the first mic I've fixed, but oh well. I remind myself there are no stupid questions. FWIW- letters on the plastic read AUN, or ALIN...... which. Just know I am going to get my ass kicked here soon!