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Astatic 575m6
- Thread starter w9cll
- Start date
You are a Junkie!Gotta get that "Mic Fix"
If admission is the first step...”I am hooked on the junk”.
Lol. I mean LOL!! Doing the same thing . . . almost.
Guess you’ve also been practicing your E.G. Marshall Voice:
CBS Radio Mystery Theater.
So what’ll it be? A Holy Grail or another drawerful? (I’m asking myself).
.
At Bells CB, a jazzed up Lincoln plus a modded D104 is looking like $362. Already have the WEST MOUNTAIN RADIO CLEARSPEAKER, so looking like a home run in the making once I also replace the co-phase harness in the Pete.
We could call this set of feelings, the mobile I WANT to work with.
Even if the mike is a sort-of 575 clone, hopefully it’s a step up AND a good match.
We could call this set of feelings, the mobile I WANT to work with.
Even if the mike is a sort-of 575 clone, hopefully it’s a step up AND a good match.
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These switches generally fail because they are not all that robust and are only soldered to the board by 2 of the 4 pins (both on the same side of the switch) and they come apart from the pressure of keying the mic. Once they start to come apart, there is no good way to get them back together and keep them together.
Switch replacement is the best option, unfortunately.
My problem is plurals...I'll buy a mic, and then buy a backup in case the first one fails, then buy a backup to the backup should that fail (and so on), until I have too many multiples....
Dan , Yes , good reports on SSB also . But I'm still on the hunt for a 10-Da head for my other D-104 only because Op's say they work well . But if I know I'll be Chasing DX all day on SSB , I usually plug in my Turner SSK . That mic works awesome . Also I had a friend figure out how to wire my Sadelta CM-40 Mic because anything listed would not work on my 2K . Just haven't had a chance to pick it up yet .
Dan , Yes , good reports on SSB also . But I'm still on the hunt for a 10-Da head for my other D-104 only because Op's say they work well . But if I know I'll be Chasing DX all day on SSB , I usually plug in my Turner SSK . That mic works awesome . Also I had a friend figure out how to wire my Sadelta CM-40 Mic because anything listed would not work on my 2K . Just haven't had a chance to pick it up yet .
Thanks!
I also checked out the W2ENY site and see he has a version for my D104. I guess I’m back to shopping!!
I’m planning to try the newest D104M6B on a Washington I picked up. I’ll probably just do a 1.5M resistor again, but hopefully can make a brief before after comparison video to show the results.
But...lots of stuff on the burner...hahaha.
What I haven’t figured out...is if the replacement switches are any better constructed. So far so good on mine, but if it ends up being a perpetual replacement type deal that would sour my milk and make a used (and pricy) 575 much more attractive.
I’ve never done business with Bells.
I ordered from Bob’s for the first time yesterday...two of the mics came from them.
I looked for somewhere on the order form to detail the wiring info and couldn’t find it. I hit submit, and a few second later the phone rang asking for details.
They took my order in the afternoon, got them wired, and by midnight they were in Memphis, TN and on the way.
So far so good with that experience.
Just looking at the switch, I agree. Looks the same to me.
https://m.ebay.com/itm/2-Astatic-CB...e304fffaa5bb&_mwBanner=1&_rdt=1&ul_noapp=true
I can't see spending time and energy fixing it with another high fail type.
Seems like a “time will tell” kind of thing. The replacement has done better than the original so far...but some folks also keep the originals ticking for a while.
I spent several hundred $$ between Bells & Bobs the past two years. Off the shelf or made to order, items received quickly. Well-packaged.
It's not the switches fault from what I can see, but the way that Astatic attached them to the board. If they had only included an attachment point on both sides of the switch, they wouldn't be failing.
The cover gets lifted from over pressure while the mic is keyed and the base is soldered firmly in place. This causes the tabs that hold the cover to the board of the switch to bend on one side and the contacts inside of the switch loose connectivity. Once this happens the tabs will never be able to be properly bend back into shape to hold the switch together, and the board inside of the switch can become damaged from either the top pulling off, or from trying to repair it.
It might even be worth blobbing some solder onto the pins that don't have solder points so that they won't just pull through the board. I haven;t had to try this method, but I think it might be the best bet to try and keep the switches in tact.
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