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AstroPlane up and Testing

As soon as you wrote you had made up a halfwave jumper I figured you'd got the length wrong,it's a very common mistake due to all the misinformation being perpetuated on the internet and in books by those who think they are specialists,with the emphasis on the word "think".

The formula for measuring a halfwave in coax is as follows:

300 million metres per second (speed of light/radio waves) / 27.205 Mhz (your chosen centre frequency for US cb band) (300 and 27.205 are brought about by cancellation of zero's from 300,000,000 m/s and 27.205.000 Mhz) = 1 fullwave in freespace /2 which gives a 1/2 wave in free space, x.85 (the velocity factor of your particular coax,because wave propagation is slowed in coax compared to free space)

300/27.205= 11.027 metres /2 = 5.513m x 0.85 = 4.686 metres. to convert to feet you multiply metres by 3.28 =15.372 feet which is approximately 15' 4-1/2" give or take a fleas bawhair.

You have either read the book wrong and its the formula for 3/4 wave impedance inverter if using 75 ohm coax to match quads/co phased mobiles etc or a 3/4 wave length of 50 ohm coax for coax with a velocity factor of 0.66 (rg58c/u,rg213/u,rg214/u,rg11/u,etc),either that or the book writer hasn't taken velocity factor into account which means the guy who wrote the book is clueless in seattle.

I tend to think the latter is most probably the case,as there ain't no shortage of people writing books about subjects they know precious little about and who understand even less on the subject than the majority of readers who take for gospel anything thats put down in print.

As for being clear of the antenna,its best being at least 18 feet from the antenna,approx 1 full halfwave in free space if you want to avoid interaction.I'm assuming by " you mean feet and not inches,feet is generally signified by ' and inches by ".

From what I read on this forum,Bob 85 and Shockwave are two guys whose information you can rely on when it comes to antennas,especially avanti ones.Theres a few other well clued up guys here too.

Good luck with your testing/modifications.:)

Thank youu for the reply. The volicity factor was not considered in the length of trhe 1/2 wave coax, thanks for straightening this out.
The " were typos I indeed mean Feet. Strange that I should do that, I had a thought that I might be human! --- Darn.:)
 
Well here we go again.
I will not quit until I get this right.
Needing a good base line I decided to assemble the original Astroplane and take good baseline readings from that. I assembled the antenna following the instructions exactly.
The coax used is a half wavelength LMR 400 VF=.85 as measured with the MFJ 259B antenna analyzer. The MFJ instructions recommend a coax length in multiples of ¼ wavelength The coax was made to a length of 30’ 9” so it should be close to 27.205.
The coax runs down the mast centered between the down leg elements.
The mast is approximately 19’ in length and the nonmetallic guy are attached about 49” below the loop. There is about 112” of mast between the loop and the top of a 3’ tripod.
The whole assembly sits on top of the garage roof in as much free air as possible.
The results are as follows:
 

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Well here we go again.
I will not quit until I get this right.
Needing a good base line I decided to assemble the original Astroplane and take good baseline readings from that. I assembled the antenna following the instructions exactly.
The coax used is a half wavelength LMR 400 VF=.85 as measured with the MFJ 259B antenna analyzer. The MFJ instructions recommend a coax length in multiples of ¼ wavelength The coax was made to a length of 30’ 9” so it should be close to 27.205.
The coax runs down the mast centered between the down leg elements.
The mast is approximately 19’ in length and the nonmetallic guy are attached about 49” below the loop. There is about 112” of mast between the loop and the top of a 3’ tripod.
The whole assembly sits on top of the garage roof in as much free air as possible.
The results are as follows:

SD'r I sure would appreciate a close up of the original AP you have up now. Other than the modes to the first one you posted, are they similar? Not that it makes a difference, but these look like knockoff's like the TopOne I have.

They're a little different, because mine has an insulator type setup inside of a small piece of square tubing attached to both ends of the mounting hub, while your's has only one insulator setup that is at the feed point and the other side uses compression, just like the original Avanti. If both of your AP's are of similar construction and source, then I have never seen this particular model before. Do you know who made it? Mine is a TopOne from Coopers. I have some other random TO/AP's parts, but they are all the same source, Coopers. Just curious.

BTW, is there a type-O with the 30'9" in the text and the 19'9" on your work sheet for the 1/2 wave tuned line?

Were you surprised at these results you post today? I was, so I went back and really studded my Work Sheets for my TO. On two reports #5 & #6 for the AP in particular.

On test #5, it shows I used a make shift 97.25' tuned feed line which should be close to a resonant length @ 27.205 mhz.

On test #6, it shows I removed a 5' jumper from the mix to make the line 92.25' and non resonant.

When I went with the shorter feed line in #6, the tune (value of R & X) and the SWR got worse, the bandwidth got much narrower and went from 3.16 mhz down to 1.95, while the resonance stayed about the same on both.

This was surely not a scientific testing feed line, because I used barrel connectors to put jumpers together to make that length, and of course there were mixed VF to consider. I violated all the rules, but it looks like that is what I did.

The big deal was the resonance was at 27.005 mhz, almost what you're showing in frequency with your tuned line. I don't think I ever posted my work sheets for my AP, because I have not really studded them and made notes, but I think I will do that soon and post them with my other Antenna Work Sheets in my albums. It also looks like when I used a purely random feed line, like 76' which I use now for a working line, both the top hat and the straight 1/4 wave models tune at 27.205 almost on the button and in both cases the BW is wide in the range of 3mhz with the full 1/4 wave showing above 3 and the top hat model showing a little less at 2.88 mhz. The tune on the full 1/4 wave is also much better by the numbers and the SWR, but on-air I recall I was not impressed. Maybe it was a difference in the angle of radiation that I was noticing and I did not study or realize it at the time.

Hopefully Bob85 will be testing this idea soon, with his homemade model.

SD'r I hope I have not mislead you with my previous words, but I think you are on the right track if you can get a hold of the frequency with either model you test. To understand how and what affects frequency will help you understand and anticipate what happens when you start to adjust your tunable model soon.

I noticed that you did not pre-determine your scan step rate by frequency. It looks like you pushed your reports by SWR stepping from 2.0, to 1.9, to 1.8, etc., and so on---recording as you went based on SWR. IMO, this will tend to make all of your BW curves look the same. Since you said you were only interested in BW, then this process should tell you that for sure, and the step rate for frequency idea will make little difference. You could save a lot of time and work though if you just take three readings, at 2.0:1 on both ends of the range and the lowests in the middle will get you similar results. You may find it important to make these steps consistent in spacing, like 50khz,75khz,or 100khz, on down the line however.

But for now, I would just keep on with your process and your ideas for testing the full 1/4 wave version of your antenna, but don't forget when you get to making the straight 1/4 wave element frequency will get important fast.

Keep up the good work and try to nail down that frequency better with the stock model, and keep us posted.
 
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Swr curve looks pretty normal to me for that type of antenna,its very good right across the whole USA cb band,its useable on both 26.285 and 27.555.

if you want slightly higher resonant frequency then you may find the radiator or capacitance hat needs shortening slightly.But from what your getting at the moment it hardly seems worthwhile.If you do raise resonant frequency and you use 26mhz you will find the swr getting higher down there but better on 27.555.
 
SD'r I sure would appreciate a close up of the original AP you have up now. Other than the modes to the first one you posted, are they similar? Not that it makes a difference, but these look like knockoff's like the TopOne I have.

They're a little different, because mine has an insulator type setup inside of a small piece of square tubing attached to both ends of the mounting hub, while your's has only one insulator setup that is at the feed point and the other side uses compression, just like the original Avanti. If both of your AP's are of similar construction and source, then I have never seen this particular model before. Do you know who made it? Mine is a TopOne from Coopers. I have some other random TO/AP's parts, but they are all the same source, Coopers. Just curious.

BTW, is there a type-O with the 30'9" in the text and the 19'9" on your work sheet for the 1/2 wave tuned line?

Were you surprised at these results you post today? I was, so I went back and really studded my Work Sheets for my TO. On two reports #5 & #6 for the AP in particular.

On test #5, it shows I used a make shift 97.25' tuned feed line which should be close to a resonant length @ 27.205 mhz.

On test #6, it shows I removed a 5' jumper from the mix to make the line 92.25' and non resonant.

When I went with the shorter feed line in #6, the tune (value of R & X) and the SWR got worse, the bandwidth got much narrower and went from 3.16 mhz down to 1.95, while the resonance stayed about the same on both.

This was surely not a scientific testing feed line, because I used barrel connectors to put jumpers together to make that length, and of course there were mixed VF to consider. I violated all the rules, but it looks like that is what I did.

The big deal was the resonance was at 27.005 mhz, almost what you're showing in frequency with your tuned line. I don't think I ever posted my work sheets for my AP, because I have not really studded them and made notes, but I think I will do that soon and post them with my other Antenna Work Sheets in my albums. It also looks like when I used a purely random feed line, like 76' which I use now for a working line, both the top hat and the straight 1/4 wave models tune at 27.205 almost on the button and in both cases the BW is wide in the range of 3mhz with the full 1/4 wave showing above 3 and the top hat model showing a little less at 2.88 mhz. The tune on the full 1/4 wave is also much better by the numbers and the SWR, but on-air I recall I was not impressed. Maybe it was a difference in the angle of radiation that I was noticing and I did not study or realize it at the time.

Hopefully Bob85 will be testing this idea soon, with his homemade model.

SD'r I hope I have not mislead you with my previous words, but I think you are on the right track if you can get a hold of the frequency with either model you test. To understand how and what affects frequency will help you understand and anticipate what happens when you start to adjust your tunable model soon.

I noticed that you did not pre-determine your scan step rate by frequency. It looks like you pushed your reports by SWR stepping from 2.0, to 1.9, to 1.8, etc., and so on---recording as you went based on SWR. IMO, this will tend to make all of your BW curves look the same. Since you said you were only interested in BW, then this process should tell you that for sure, and the step rate for frequency idea will make little difference. You could save a lot of time and work though if you just take three readings, at 2.0:1 on both ends of the range and the lowests in the middle will get you similar results. You may find it important to make these steps consistent in spacing, like 50khz,75khz,or 100khz, on down the line however.

But for now, I would just keep on with your process and your ideas for testing the full 1/4 wave version of your antenna, but don't forget when you get to making the straight 1/4 wave element frequency will get important fast.

Keep up the good work and try to nail down that frequency better with the stock model, and keep us posted.

Yes again it was a typo the length is 30’ 9”. I don’t quite understand it but blaming old age will have to do. Normally I am good with accuracy but now days I just can’t seem to get it straight. Oh well on with life.
When I started doing the measurements in earlier post I was basing them on set frequencies and then recording the X, R, Z & SWR. However this was time consuming as many times the values would not change with the next few frequency steps. Also it is not the easiest thing to tune an MFJ analyzer to get the exact frequency that I wanted let alone good repeatability. So as long as I was starting over I decided that I could cut the task by starting at the lowest SWR reading and then tuning to the next jump up in SWR , i.e. 1.1 to 1.2 then record the frequency. I did this both increasing and decreasing the frequency from the lowest SWR reading. The MFJ 259B is just not accurate or user friendly enough to split this down any further. The SWR resolution is only down to the first decimal place (1/10s).
The other day when I was using it the meter started going crazy. This was tracked down to a poor solder connection inside the meter from the 239 connector to the PCB. I now know what people mean about MFJ stuff. But from the reviews I thought that the Analyzers were better than most of their other stuff.
Anyway here are the photos of the NOS Avanti Astroplane main bracket. I was also interested in the Top One to see what they had going so I ordered one. When it came it was the new version with a gamma match. Not even close to the Avanti original so I sold it after taking some photos and measurements.
 

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A few more photos, Let me know if you need any more. Maybe I could just send it to you to take a close look if you like. My goal is to make a working copy with a beefier design, then move on to the Astrobeam. The beam is what I like but better undersatnding the omni is a good start. Much of the feed on the beam is the same and I need a omni directional anyway.
 

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Yes again it was a typo the length is 30’ 9”. I don’t quite understand it but blaming old age will have to do. Normally I am good with accuracy but now days I just can’t seem to get it straight. Oh well on with life.
That's good to know that 30'9" is what you meant. Don't worry, we all have bad days, age or not.

When I started doing the measurements in earlier post I was basing them on set frequencies and then recording the X, R, Z & SWR. However this was time consuming as many times the values would not change with the next few frequency steps. Also it is not the easiest thing to tune an MFJ analyzer to get the exact frequency that I wanted let alone good repeatability. So as long as I was starting over I decided that I could cut the task by starting at the lowest SWR reading and then tuning to the next jump up in SWR , i.e. 1.1 to 1.2 then record the frequency. I did this both increasing and decreasing the frequency from the lowest SWR reading. The MFJ 259B is just not accurate or user friendly enough to split this down any further. The SWR resolution is only down to the first decimal place (1/10s).

I seem to recall your first BW curve looked fine and you might agree the curve was bowl shaped then. If you plot your latest scan, I think you will see that the curve is like a V instead. Again, not a problem though. The MFJ resolution may present a problem for more details, so maybe that's why they have an analogue meter too. I find that scan steps of .100 khz does just fine, but my meter shows two decimal places for SWR and I have fine and coarse dials for frequency.

The other day when I was using it the meter started going crazy. This was tracked down to a poor solder connection inside the meter from the 239 connector to the PCB. I now know what people mean about MFJ stuff. But from the reviews I thought that the Analyzers were better than most of their other stuff.

Anyway here are the photos of the NOS Avanti Astroplane main bracket. I was also interested in the Top One to see what they had going so I ordered one. When it came it was the new version with a gamma match. Not even close to the Avanti original so I sold it after taking some photos and measurements.

Very good. The bracket with the angle on your modified antenna looks like my knockoff and that was confusing me. Again your mode looks to cover all the conditions you mentioned, and the only difference I see is your radials are on the inside of the bracket with the feed point and mine are out side.
AP  by Starduster #2 061310.JPG Astro Plane Hub Knockoff.JPG
 
That knockoff that you have is interesting in the way that the mast is on the other side of the main bracket from my copy. I was thinking that the mast should be on the same center line as the lower elements when viewed from the top. This may have something to do with the Z of the antenna. Something to keep in mind. I am currently revamping a couple of things on my copy and then back up it will go.
 

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i think i have one exactly like that eddie ;),

starduster,
thanks for posting the great pics, im drooling(y)
have you thought about trying the alternative symetrical configuration shown in the patent where the upper 1/4wave is an extension of the mast rather than offset?
an aluminum plug in the mast drilled to take the the 1/4wave would look ok imho, i wonder if it would clean up the lobsided pattern also shown in the parent.
 
SD'r, when I first noticed that your radials were on the inside and mine were on the outside of our bent hubs, I wondered why the difference.

I went out with binoculars and checked my TopOne out, and it's just like the picture of the hub I posted. So, I have two hubs that look alike. I had a thought that if your radials were on the opposite side of the hub from mine that maybe it changed the center to center spacing between the radials, with your's being closer than mine. If it did, then that might account for your low frequency, because I was sure that my TO was resonant at 27.205, but I didn't say anything as you were already getting questions. I also realize that you noticed some misalingment at this point and you were looking close, so your idea is valid too, if the spacing did not change in the process.

At some point I took a closer look at my Antenna Work Sheets and noticed that my AP had also shown a low resonance at 27.005, when using a tuned 1/2 wave line. So, with that I figured---if there was a little difference in the spacing, it probably made no difference. Now, I'm wondering that this might be an issue that needs to be explored further. Maybe you could measure your modified AP, center to center, and see if it equals 6", and maybe Bob could measure his knockoff hub too? This is not much of a difference, but it could be critical for the impedance based on how current distribution works.

SD' I know I can change the hardware on my knockoff to either side if there is room, Bob could verify this also. Can you change your hardware to the other side? This might be worth testing.

Boy this project seemed so simple at first, and now it's turning into a can of worms with more questions than answers.
 
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i think i have one exactly like that eddie ;),

starduster,
thanks for posting the great pics, im drooling(y)
have you thought about trying the alternative symmetrical configuration shown in the patent where the upper 1/4wave is an extension of the mast rather than offset?
an aluminum plug in the mast drilled to take the the 1/4wave would look ok imho, i wonder if it would clean up the lobsided pattern also shown in the parent.

Bob, in looking at what I have here, I'm pretty sure the hub you have has all of the parts in the correct location. I took them off before and I could have put them back on wrong. However, I seem to recall there are some retention marks (dimples) on the bracket that shows where the mast goes. Check and see if the insulators will mount the other way, so it looks like SD'rs modified AP and then check the spacing if you would. I suspect it will change with a change in position.

I think you may be right about improving symmetry and fixing the lopsided pattern a bit, by using an extension of the mast instead of offsetting the top element as it is on the AP. I never did try that last summer, like I promised. If you'll look in the Astro Beam manual you will notice that the driver stud is offset on the plate adapter bracket and it looks to be addressing this issue, by placing the top 1/4 wave element directly over the lower mast with the offset. Those Avanti guys were really sharp.
 
eddie, the center to center radial spacing on my hub is 5-13/16"

remember the original astroplane was designed before the days of 40ch cb so theres no reason to think it would be tuned for 27.205 unless it says so in the instructions,

i see what sdr is talking about, you have the mast on the same side of bracket as the s0239, im sure we talked about that too when you sent me the hub,
its an optical illusion, the bracket is punched to locate the mast on that side,
the inside edge of the radial is level with the edge of the mast, moving the mast to the opposite side will move the radials over 1/4" putting radial centerline level with the mast edge, the astroplane falls somewhere inbetween,

the top-one outside of bend design allows the correct radial spacing with a shorter bracket and neater/symetrical appearance than the inside of bend design. it is also easier to convert into an astrobeam,

reversing the hub causes the radial spacing to be 3-7/8"
heres what it looks like reversed, the feedpoint side wont sit flush unless you enlaged the s0239 slightly but you can see how it would look


P1010677.jpg



this way puts the radial centerline much closer to mast centerline as seen in sdr's homebrew,
i like the symetrical approach if you are homebrewing , im thinking the offset upper 1/4wave and radials are a product of what is practical and cheap to manufacture whilst offering choice of mast diameters, the mast is a part of the antenna not just a mast but for practicalities of packaging / transportation and more importantly cost they did not supply a mast,

if i was building an astroplane/ beam from scratch i would not bother with the antenna connector, its not needed adds complexity and limits maximum power rating, i know of one guy that removed the avanti so239 and went direct connection so that he could run high power,

i have a simple design in mind that allows some impedance adjustment and a symetrical feed/layout, i think we talked about that before too, i know i drew some examples and sent them to somebody,
i don't know if that will improve or degrade pattern symetry untill i test it.
 
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SD'r, when I first noticed that your radials were on the inside and mine were on the outside of our bent hubs, I wondered why the difference.

I went out with binoculars and checked my TopOne out, and it's just like the picture of the hub I posted. So, I have two hubs that look alike. I had a thought that if your radials were on the opposite side of the hub from mine that maybe it changed the center to center spacing between the radials, with your's being closer than mine. If it did, then that might account for your low frequency, because I was sure that my TO was resonant at 27.205, but I didn't say anything as you were already getting questions. I also realize that you noticed some misalingment at this point and you were looking close, so your idea is valid too, if the spacing did not change in the process.

At some point I took a closer look at my Antenna Work Sheets and noticed that my AP had also shown a low resonance at 27.005, when using a tuned 1/2 wave line. So, with that I figured---if there was a little difference in the spacing, it probably made no difference. Now, I'm wondering that this might be an issue that needs to be explored further. Maybe you could measure your modified AP, center to center, and see if it equals 6", and maybe Bob could measure his knockoff hub too? This is not much of a difference, but it could be critical for the impedance based on how current distribution works.

SD' I know I can change the hardware on my knockoff to either side if there is room, Bob could verify this also. Can you change your hardware to the other side? This might be worth testing.

Boy this project seemed so simple at first, and now it's turning into a can of worms with more questions than answers.

Let me try and clear up the reason why my mast is on the inside of the bend in the main bracket.
It is just because at the time I made it I was thinking that it should be that way to be optimum due to being more symmetrical, centering everything around the mast and on the mast centerline. I used AutoCAD to draw it all up and determine the angle of the bends in the main bracket to achieve this.
Not realizing that it may be of greater importance. I was thinking that the Avanti antenna may have been made the way it was because it would be just plain less expensive to manufacture. After all, if the antenna still worked satisfactory and tests show negligible change, and cheaper to manufacture I bet that most companies will opt for the less expensive way. They did have to compete with a lot of others at the time and like all companies watch cost. Case in point, the loop on the bottom in the factory design is not centered around the mast either. How does this affect the theoretical optimum? What about the diameter of the mast pole? What about the sheet metal clamps that hang on the radials, loop and mast? Personally I don’t like sharp points and edges on antennas and its brackets. All of these things lead me to want to believe that optimal performance was sacrificed to some degree in favor of cost.
In my attempt to optimize this antenna cost is not the issue, quality is. So some or all of my changes will have to be proven against the original to assure that the performance is at least not suffering from the original design, hence this thread.
I just have a hard time thinking that the spacing of the lower radials just happen to be optimal at exactly 6” The fact that the lower elements are not in a parallel plane as the mast and all of the above items mentioned have to be exactly as they are.
See the photos of the original main bracket vs. my home made version for comparison. If the mast has to be offset then I could move it to the other side of the main bracket. But this in turn will offset the loop at the bottom of the antenna unless the lower radials have a compound curve. The TO copy with the offset now has me wondering all the more.
So time will tell when the two are compared. I should get my butt out there and get to work.
 

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