Base Antenna HELP to much RF

[loosecannon]

remember that if you have your antenna grounded, and you have your station equipment grounded to a separate ground rod, that they are connected to eachother through the shield of the coax as soon as you hook it to the radio, amp, tuner, or whatever.

much better to have a wire running underground direct from one ground rod to the other than using the coax shield to connect the ground rods.
that seems like trouble to me.

i think the whole "ground wire must be less than 8 feet" thing is quite misunderstood.

i think the actual conditions where that 8 foot wire would act like an antenna are alot more rare and hard to re-create than people think.

i follow the NEC guidelines about single point grounds.
i do not own a free standing tower, so my antenna ground is tied in with the house, and station grounds.

i run about 300 watts on a homebuilt amp, my 2000gtl is heavily modified, and i do not bleed on my neighbors.
(i live in a city)
just my opinions and expericences,
loosecannon

 

[Gearhead]

All ground rods need to be tied together UNDER the ground. That includes the house ground, and the shield of your coax, too. Ground rods that are'nt tied together, can actually generate current.
Most computer speakers and cheap electronics, especially phones, will pick up interference no matter what.

 

[W5LZ]

There are two different kinds of 'grounds' when dealing with radios, safety grounds and RF grounds. The two are very seldom ever the same things. Safety grounds deal with getting shocked, or not getting shocked is a better way of putting it. RF grounds deal with getting rid of unwanted RF and in some particular cases provide part of the antenna system requirements.
RF grounds.
RF grounds are frequency dependent. That means that they provide a low impedance route to ground where the RF is supposed to go. If the RF ground exhibits a higher impedance than other conduction paths, then the RF goes there instead of ground. So, if you try to keep the length of the RF ground close to about a 1/4 wave length, that's where the stuff goes, 'path of least resistance'. If a 1/4 wave length won't reach ground, then make it some odd multiple of that length. The 'biggy' is just don't make it near a 1/2 wave length.
Something else about RF grounds. Radials instead of rods make for a better ground. Radials (fairly long runs, or a lot of shorter runs) tend to have more surface area with dirt than a rod does, so provide more conduction/inductive/capacitive contact. Deeper is not much use. Surface area contact is. If it's deep enough that you aren't able to snag it with your toe, or the lawn mower, it's deep enough.
Why don't more people use them? Because they are a P.I.T.A. to install, not very quick, takes more work. Same reason the power companies don't use them. 'Cop-per' plating your yard would be nice! Seeding the ground with salt is a complete waste of time, but it does kill the grass. Not as much grass cutting that way!
Safety grounds.
Not too difficult of an idea to get around, is it? The 'post', or 'third' wire in most electrical wiring. The National Electrical Code (NEC) is a very good example and explanation. Probably a requirement in most urban areas. It's your neck, protect it as much as you think it should be protected. If that safety ground is half way decent you'll probably love to complain about it. If it isn't, at least we won't have to listen to you complain. Safety grounds are sort of frequency dependent too, but since the frequency is so low, a general rule of 'more is better' is true enough.
Neither RF grounds or safety grounds are very good as far as lightning is concerned. Just not heavy enough to carry the 'charge'. Either, or both, are much nicer to have if struck by lightning! Just don't expect miracles.
Having said all that, which you probably knew anyway, take it for what it's worth. How much is it worth? Well, it's your signal and your neck, so you answer it.
(I discovered all of the above, wrote the NEC, taught Einstien, Marconi, Colpitts, Kenwood, Icom, Yaesu, and that other guy everything they know/knew... ... and if you believe any of that last sentence, I've got this boat for sale.)
- 'Doc


PS - I do have a couple of boats for sale. A "Maggie M." and "Wyeforce" by 'Model Slipway'. Don't ask, you can't afford them. And NO, the radio doesn't go with them.

(sorry Marconi)

 

[KENWOOD570]

Well I disconnected the ground wire from my antenna and attached it to the bottom of my mast. The other end is attached to a 8' rod 2' away. My other ground rod that went to my well is attached to my equiptment. So that is step one, I could not tell if it has helped yet. Next I might buy a Maco V5 and try it to see if it helps they are cheap enough. Anyhow we will see later today if it helps

Thanks
Jerry

 

[KENWOOD570]

Well last night we did some tests and changing the ground helped, I ordered a Alpha 5/8 so we will see if that helps more.

Thanks again for all the help, I think that I am getting closer, I know I will not get rid of all the problem but it has helped. I am working on getting my ticket

Jerry

 

[Marty]

My amp is an Xforce 6012HD, I am confused about grounding? so many different opinions??????????????

Jerry

I use to run a Palomar TX 75 at my Base station with a 65 foot A-99 with no problems with my TV antenna about 50 feet away except a cheap 5 dollar alarm clock that my neighbor Had . I would ditch the X Force and go with a 25 year old Palomar or a Cobra 450 very clean amps. 8)

 

[KENWOOD570]

Well I thought I ordered a Sigma Alpha 5/8 but got a Maco? anyhow I will follow MC's directions and get it up this weekend and do some tests. If I still bug the neighbors then I will probally sell the X, I hardly use it anyway. I will post results

Thanks
Jerry