Bed Mount, but where?

[TheRealPorkchop]

I'd buy one of these Gem Top steel tonneau covers and drill a hole right in the middle.

Agreed. I do that or like was stated earlier, pop a hole in the roof and mount you a Wilson there. Or even better, a Predator. The more centered that antenna is and above the highest point of that truck, the better it will perform. If that’s just not an option for you then get it away (however you choose) from that rollbar and/or the cab.

I’d personally suggest bonding also but I guess that’s pointless at this point unless you get your antenna mounted in an optimal position.

 

[CyberRider]

CyberRider , I don't know if I welcomed you to the forum but welcome ! As far as hijacking threads ? Well get use to it ( no disrespect ) .

Got it. And thanks.

If it were me...I would weld a metal flap right in the middle of that roll-bar between the lights and mount my antenna there...

I'm basically going with this approach. To be precise, I'm having a flat, steel bar fabricated that will run from factory tab to factory tab with a hole in center for stud mount as well as two additional holes for extra lighting. I'll take picture when it's all set up and done.

 

[CyberRider]

Here's a couple pics of the bracket I had fabricated and then installed my antenna on, errrrr upon. I had the fabricator drill 2 extra holes so I can mount extra lights in the future. I sprayed it silver, but not the areas that make contact.

 

[357magnum]

I'm shooting from the hip now but , did you try taking the spring out of line ( I know you need it ) to see if SWR changes ? Try running a ground wire from that bracket to a Good clean spot for a ground ? Probably doesn't make much of a difference but that type of roll bar is put together in segments . BTW nice shorts your wearing ( reflection in back of light ) . Good Luck . 73 and God Bless , Leo

 

[Handy Andy]

Nice Job!

The "segments" need to be bonded to each other - so you should find a method to make sure the tubes are all electrically "RF" bonded - then bond that to the bed.

The bad thing about 11 meter - is the length of the required amount of metal to make it work in setups like this.

If you had a simple car, the roof at it's center allows the wave to propagate away from the vehicle in a slope that better meets the "actual takeoff angle" you'd need. The vehicle has enough metal around the antenna at hat location to make it work better.

You don't get than in a truck - so now can you possibly make that bar RF grounded? The "segments" need to be "bolted" and I know that would suck - because chrome means plating and plating means perforation at a later time.

But you on the right track. You can "strap" too - just make it look like it's a wiring harness - then "pinch" braid between the chrome segments in less noticeable areas as you route. The pinch point becomes the sacrificial metal the copper will corrode so you're prepared - but would act as a joint to make the RF ground better in that bar.

 

[BJ radionut]

I might add this MHO: If you add more lights to that bracket, where you have extra holes drilled...
I would be willing to bet, the antenna tuning/performance will go all too hell due to the close proximity to those new lights...
All the Best
Gary

 

[CyberRider]

...did you try taking the spring out of line ( I know you need it ) to see if SWR changes ? Try running a ground wire from that bracket to a Good clean spot for a ground ?

No, didn't try either of those things.

BTW nice shorts your wearing ( reflection in back of light ) .

Haha! Big, baggy basketball shorts. I tried to take the pic so I couldn't be seen in a reflection but it was impossible no matter the angle. Oh well.

Nice Job!

The fabricator shop would appreciate hearing that compliment. Thanks.

The "segments" need to be bonded to each other - so you should find a method to make sure the tubes are all electrically "RF" bonded - then bond that to the bed.

Right, and that is quite a task. I probably won't embark on it.

I might add this MHO: If you add more lights to that bracket, where you have extra holes drilled...
I would be willing to bet, the antenna tuning/performance will go all too hell due to the close proximity to those new lights...

You're probably right. But I want more lights, especially flood lamps. Seems like this old adage is appropriate:
You can't have your cake and eat it too. [long sigh]

 

[Slowmover]

Bumped for MoPower

See JJDs Tacoma in Post #19 as a reference idea.

 

[Recon]

Hi - I got a 94 Toyota 4x4 and I've decided that I want to mount my new 5' Firestik on the bedrail somewhere. For sake of best send/receive where on the bedrail should I mount it?

Oh, and I'm new to this WHOLE cb thing. Bought radio but haven't installed it yet. Never had a cb before at all.

Breedlove has an antenna mount that fits onto the headboard lip which may work for you.

 

[W4KVW]

View attachment 24915

No it won’t. I run a tri-mag on my dump truck. It works great until the cups those magnets sit in start rusting. Then it comes off the top, you run it over and this me attached pic is what you get. Pretty strong antenna, the Predator, 29,500 pounds ran it over and it still looks that “good”.

They make pads for most any size mag mount.They do not affect the wy they work but they do stop the magnets from rusting & they stop scratching the paint job as well.


SIX-SHOOTER

 

[Recon]

Here's a couple pics of the bracket I had fabricated and then installed my antenna on, errrrr upon. I had the fabricator drill 2 extra holes so I can mount extra lights in the future. I sprayed it silver, but not the areas that make contact.

View attachment 25388 View attachment 25389

Why not drill a hole in the underside if the roll bar so as to route the wires for the lights and the coax inside the down-tubes to eliminate the white zip-ties?