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Best Small amp selection for SSB

I just picked up a "Magnum" by Palomar(450) for a right price!
I've been trying to find out what the input drive is for this amp. I've seen it from 2-1/2 to 35 watts! I'm posting a link, if you cue it to 1:25seconds you'll her this Tech who is testing one say "the drive on my test radio puts out 35watts and thats a good drive for this amp?? Come on, I want to be sure I tune my radio right. Anybody care to weigh in on what the "proper" drive is?
 
I just picked up a "Magnum" by Palomar(450) for a right price!
I've been trying to find out what the input drive is for this amp. I've seen it from 2-1/2 to 35 watts! I'm posting a link, if you cue it to 1:25seconds you'll her this Tech who is testing one say "the drive on my test radio puts out 35watts and thats a good drive for this amp?? Come on, I want to be sure I tune my radio right. Anybody care to weigh in on what the "proper" drive is?

Usually 10% of the output power is a good start for input power. So if you have a 450 watt amp 40 Watts going in is not unreasonable. You could also use less. Set carrier power to 25% of max pep
 
I've been trying to find out what the input drive is for this amp.
Depends on if it's a high drive amp or a low drive... Best plan is to take the top off and see how it's configured inside..........
By the way, it's not an original Palomar but rather one of the hundreds of "copycat" amps that borrowed the Palomar name !
Also highly likely it is class C, so it will sound rough on AM, and like complete shit on sideband unless you can add a bias circuit to it.
Of course, I could be wrong, there are always nice surprises LOL!
 
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On my Magnum 6000, there are 2 pink 2 pin jumpers (near the main relay). One is a "low" drive and the other is a "high" drive (3dB). That gives you 4 different drive levels that can be set internally with the 2 jumpers. Active class A bias, 5 pole Chebyshev output filter, keying jack, cooling fan. Super clean amp.
 

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Depends on if it's a high drive amp or a low drive... Best plan is to take the top off and see how it's configured inside..........
By the way, it's not an original Palomar but rather one of the hundreds of "copycat" amps that borrowed the Palomar name !
Also highly likely it is class C, so it will sound rough on AM, and like complete shit on sideband unless you can add a bias circuit to it.
Of course, I could be wrong, there are always nice surprises LOL!
I found this here from Feb-2012, and I've read this else where?

magnum by palamor | WorldwideDX Radio Forum
magnum-by-palamor.105743
Member. Feb 2, 2012. 8. 0. 11. Feb 3, 2012. #9. The Palomar Magnum 4500 is a 400W 4-pill amp operating in Class AB. Everyone I've talked to says it has a clean signal.

I knew it was a knock off but it's bragged on by many. It's said to be well made. It gets good reports on air so for three bills I grabbed it.
Thanks for your informed opinion, Mr. Coyote, Sr. Member. I hope you're wrong...

 
The "Magnum" by Palomar (450) arrived. First thing I noticed was the power cord, NO fuse holder so I'm not testing it till I can get out to go get one. I popped the cover and it's internally fused w/40amp fuse but.. The power cord coming out the back looks to be #8 stranded wire! Also, it seems that he only had #12 wire ring connectors for his battery wire, but no worries he just whittled the wire down to fit said #12 ring connectors, problem solved....not!
So after I address these things I'll fire it up lol
Another thing I didn't expect was that it has Motorola pills? It's got the strip of solder wick across all four and all I can see is the top of the Motorola logo so I want to figure out what they are? Way past bedtime! Got some pics for later?
 
The "Magnum" by Palomar (450) arrived. First thing I noticed was the power cord, NO fuse holder so I'm not testing it till I can get out to go get one. I popped the cover and it's internally fused w/40amp fuse but.. The power cord coming out the back looks to be #8 stranded wire! Also, it seems that he only had #12 wire ring connectors for his battery wire, but no worries he just whittled the wire down to fit said #12 ring connectors, problem solved....not!
So after I address these things I'll fire it up lol
Another thing I didn't expect was that it has Motorola pills? It's got the strip of solder wick across all four and all I can see is the top of the Motorola logo so I want to figure out what they are? Way past bedtime! Got some pics for later
This has NO markings anywhere, not on the back or inside. I don't know but I've read that these were made in Mexico? I'm going to post some pics, I'm hoping one of the techs could tell me if it's A/B biased. It has a SSB switch but that could just be relay I've read. Also, does anyone know what transistors are? I don't know much about Motorola's or the ones used most?
 

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Thanks for your time in looking it over Jeff, it's a low drive amp then?
Yes.
The Magnum 6000 has 4x2879 transistors in it, they were sold as a 400 watt amp, that is what the sales flyers said and what dealers sold them as back then.
I think the 450 was listed as a 250 watt amp( I will see if I can find one of Charlie's old sales flyers) so the model number is not the output rating.
I would limit AM dead key from the amp to 80 watts on high and limit swing to 300 320 watts out of the amp total.
It's a good amp, keep it cool, don't over drive it, limit it to 14 volts.
Lucky you are to find that one.

73
Jeff
 
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the model number is not the output rating.
That's pretty much always the case. People just assume the model number is the power output, but it almost never is.

It's just another version of the same sales BS that's been around forever. Think of all the inflated ratings of 70's-80's audio gear, or the way antenna manufacturers rate gain in dBi instead of dBd (which it should be).
Bigger number = more sales.

A proper PEP reading watt meter such as a Bird, or at an absolute minimum a Daiwa, is the only way to know for sure what an amp is putting out. It also needs to be feeding a good dummy load, not an antenna, when the reading is taken.
Generally, if you're not overdriving the amp, you'll get about 65 to 75% of what the "model number" implies. So a "Boomer 200" for example will give you about 140 clean watts.
 
Yes.
The Magnum 6000 has 4x2879 transistors in it, they were sold as a 400 watt amp, that is what the sales flyers said and what dealers sold them as back then.
I think the 450 was listed as a 250 watt amp( I will see if I can find one of Charlie's old sales flyers) so the model number is not the output rating.
I would limit AM dead key from the amp to 80 watts on high and limit swing to 300 320 watts out of the amp total.
It's a good amp, keep it cool, don't over drive it, limit it to 14 volts.
Lucky you are to find that one.

73
Jeff
I was lead to believe this was a 450 (model) and had 1446's...., as soon as I popped the hood and saw the Motorola logo I knew It was not. All it says on it anywhere is "Magnum by Palomar" I'm going to find out if it has MRF455's (60watt) or 454's, the 454's were used in the "magnum 450" and they are 80 watt's each I have read but only has a 50% efficiency?
This link is what I thought I was getting but with "Magnum" on the front and not Cobra https://cbworldinformer.org/cobra_xl_450_amplifier_from_mexico.htm
 
That's pretty much always the case. People just assume the model number is the power output, but it almost never is.

It's just another version of the same sales BS that's been around forever. Think of all the inflated ratings of 70's-80's audio gear, or the way antenna manufacturers rate gain in dBi instead of dBd (which it should be).
Bigger number = more sales.

A proper PEP reading watt meter such as a Bird, or at an absolute minimum a Daiwa, is the only way to know for sure what an amp is putting out. It also needs to be feeding a good dummy load, not an antenna, when the reading is taken.
Generally, if you're not overdriving the amp, you'll get about 65 to 75% of what the "model number" implies. So a "Boomer 200" for example will give you about 140 clean watts.
No offense but I know the model #is not the output dude, I've been in radio since 1977 I can look at the theoretical output (80 watt transistor) times four and subtract according to duty cycle to keep heat at a minimum. If this box has MRF455's they are 60 watt transistors the MRF 454 is 80 watt's, both of these are obsolete, and now? I don't know if I'm gonna keep it. I have MS so my memory has good days and some not.
 

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