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Mobile Bonding body panels.

144inBama

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Apr 22, 2020
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I posted a picture a while back of my readings on an MFJ antenna analyzer, and they were pretty awesome... I drive a 2017 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT, Crew Cab and decided last weekend to bond all 4 doors, the hood, tailgate, fenders, and bed. Took my time, cleaned it to bare metal, used Kopr-Shield (shorturl.at/duP56) on all bonding points, soldered all bonding strap lugs, used my Fluke 787 to check continuity (.02-.06 ohms across the board) and used stainless hardware. My readings became worse? Now I'm not talking about drastically, but they did degrade some. Truck was parked in the same place and the antenna was not touched. The only improvement I noticed was the noise dropped a tad. What's the reason behind this? I know it's not major or anything to be concerned about but I'd like a better understanding of the possible reasons behind it.
Thanks and sorry if this seems like a retarded question.
 

What readings got worse? Did you retune, or just add bonding without touching the antenna? I'm pretty sure your fluke cant measure rf resistance, so that is kind of usless.
As stated, I used the Fluke to measure continuity (between panels) to make sure everything was as close to the same potential as possible, not RF. The reactance and capacitance changed. The antenna has since been retuned but am unable to get the 1.0 I previously had. reactance is now 48 and capacitance is 7 with an SWR of 1.1/1.2 whereas it was R=50 X=4 with a 1.0 SWR.
 
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I posted a picture a while back of my readings on an MFJ antenna analyzer, and they were pretty awesome... I drive a 2017 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT, Crew Cab and decided last weekend to bond all 4 doors, the hood, tailgate, fenders, and bed. Took my time, cleaned it to bare metal, used Kopr-Shield (shorturl.at/duP56) on all bonding points, soldered all bonding strap lugs, used my Fluke 787 to check continuity (.02-.06 ohms across the board) and used stainless hardware. My readings became worse? Now I'm not talking about drastically, but they did degrade some. Truck was parked in the same place and the antenna was not touched. The only improvement I noticed was the noise dropped a tad. What's the reason behind this? I know it's not major or anything to be concerned about but I'd like a better understanding of the possible reasons behind it.
Thanks and sorry if this seems like a retarded question.


“Noise” is the thing. The reason.

A review of what I’ve read and followed.
Not questions for you, per se.

1). Ideally, bond jumpers under a foot in length. 8-10” cited. Tinned, woven-copper braid from 1/2” to 3/4” or wider.

2). Bare metal said “best” for bonding (leave primer; maybe thinnest possible film of an anti-corrosive) with internal/external toothed washers and sheet-metal screw (not bolt).

3). Details of structure bonds?

- (4) corners of bed to chassis?
- (4) corners of bed-front to cab?
- (4) cab corners to chassis and jumped each body bushing?
- (4) corners of hood?
- (4) doors = (8) hinges
- Bumpers to brackets and brackets to frame.
- Tow hitch receiver
- Spare tire carrier
- A-arms & springs
- Drive Axle
- All brakes
Etc.

What I don’t see mentioned is the exhaust system.
(3) or more

Its possible to have too many. Noise-reduction is lessened in effect as one first gets horizontal surfaces (including exhaust), then goes after vertical panels such as doors, tailgate, then less altogether such as suspension components.

But I don’t think you’re at that junction yet.

“Testing” by removal and addition.


Alan Applegates’ Old & New Testament at: www.K0BG.com


Won’t hurt to clean, upgrade and add 12V grounds.
R&R all exterior lamps/housings/contacts (it’s old enough).

The other thing I’ve added to the job is to ALSO replace all fuses, relays and circuit breakers. Fusible links. Not part of the job description, but part of the system nonetheless. (Working parts become spares).

“Dat RF, she be goin’ somewheres. Hidin’ “.

.
 
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What kind of noise dropped? It's kind of hard to guess why. Bonding typically reduces noise itself. I'm still curious if you are tuning for resonance and cant get it any closer, or tuning for vswr and cant get it any lower.
 
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Since the vehicle body forms part of the antenna system any changes to it naturally will affect the overall tuning. The better the bonding the lower the ground losses and the lower the overall impedance will be. A quarter wave over a perfect ground will be around 36 ohms at resonance and show an SWR of about 1.5:1.
 
I'm still curious if you are tuning for resonance and cant get it any closer, or tuning for vswr and cant get it any lower.

I was tuning for both... I guess? I was always happy with low SWRs until I started seeing posts about resonance....then I wanted both to be perfect.... Which from what I'm learning, it's either one or the other.
 
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reactance is now 48 and capacitance is 7 with an SWR of 1.1/1.2 whereas it was R=50 X=4 with a 1.0 SWR.

Yeah ignore that, not really telling you a lot about how well the RF ground works and I'd not give two monkeys if that's what I had in an install where the SWR was at it's lowest. What is R when X=0? That'll tell you more about how well your RF grounding is. Using a 1/4 wave whip it should be 36.8 ohms for a perfect RF ground. The lowest reactance and the lowest SWR should normally never be on the same frequency. OTTOMH so I'll get it wrong the resonant point is usually slightly lower in frequency than the lowest SWR.

Remember whatever length of coax you use other than an electrical halfwave will skew readings.
 

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