• You can now help support WorldwideDX when you shop on Amazon at no additional cost to you! Simply follow this Shop on Amazon link first and a portion of any purchase is sent to WorldwideDX to help with site costs.
  • Retevis is giving away Radios for the New Year and Every Member is Eligible. Click Here to see the details!

Can anyone identify this insulating material please?

Well another order and another try.
I re-flowed the mosfets and rectifier leads cause I was struggling and some got moved a bit and looked a bit cracked.
Just got to pull the trigger on some pads and try again in a few days.


Thanks for all of your advice guys.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3429.JPG
    IMG_3429.JPG
    686.8 KB · Views: 7
  • IMG_3430.JPG
    IMG_3430.JPG
    662.6 KB · Views: 6
  • IMG_3432.JPG
    IMG_3432.JPG
    634.3 KB · Views: 6
  • IMG_3433.JPG
    IMG_3433.JPG
    614.6 KB · Views: 6
  • IMG_3434.JPG
    IMG_3434.JPG
    718.3 KB · Views: 6
  • IMG_3435.JPG
    IMG_3435.JPG
    720.3 KB · Views: 6
  • IMG_3436.JPG
    IMG_3436.JPG
    616.1 KB · Views: 6
  • IMG_3437.JPG
    IMG_3437.JPG
    614.5 KB · Views: 6
  • IMG_3438.JPG
    IMG_3438.JPG
    602.8 KB · Views: 6
  • IMG_3439.JPG
    IMG_3439.JPG
    637.4 KB · Views: 6
If they are "pre-adhesive" - go for it - looks like the sizes you need too.

Remember that they are perfed - meaning the hole will need to align - so if they get "inserted" and slide off - the slightest burr on one edge in to the anodized aluminum they may be toast. These are made for drill thrus'.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 357
If they are "pre-adhesive" - go for it - looks like the sizes you need too.

Remember that they are perfed - meaning the hole will need to align - so if they get "inserted" and slide off - the slightest burr on one edge in to the anodized aluminum they may be toast. These are made for drill thrus'.

Ya I couldn't find 900 series with no hole for to247
I got the to220 no hole but see for yourself: https://www.digikey.ca/products/en/...402&quantity=&ColumnSort=0&page=1&pageSize=25

I seen the Wakefield-Vette ones but they seem super thin to me.
0.076mm vs 0.229mm

https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/wakefield-vette/CD-02-05-220-N/345-1687-ND/9369966

https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/wakefield-vette/CD-02-05-247-N/345-1688-ND/9369967

https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/wakefield-vette/CD-02-05-REC-125-N/345-1703-ND/9369982

Maybe these are made of the same thing the original ones were.

I'm not sure which one to pick.
I cant believe how much this stuff costs either.
I could probably buy the actual components for less.
 
Adhesive.jpg

Went looking - see above, used the Adhesive back and then hit apply filters - these have adhesive backing so you can get these to work as long as it sticks to the back of the parts.

There will be clearance issues so I can see why they went with typical "onion skin" like you'd find on the transformers...

But Teflon Tape is also a stuff used for electrical insulation too
 
  • Like
Reactions: Shadetree Mechanic
I also noticed that the heads and nuts - looks like they fit the channel.

Can you use a spot glue or nail polish to hold these parts in place? {the nuts I'm referring to] and place the board on top once the bolts or nuts are properly aligned? I'm thinking the nuts to the channel and just "washers" to press against the top part of the plate to hold the flange to the parts due to the length of the shaft of the bolt - this way the nut when it goes tight - the washer and bolt itself also adds to the spreader effect. The Nut then is your friction "brake" to keep the heat sink aligned.

I'm thinking that if - as part of assembly - one or two nuts of both ends of the board can be done this way - the rest should fall into place pretty easily.

I've used piano - fish wire - to slide the nuts onto heat sink channels in a similar design - PITA - so I know what you're going thru - some have even needed the heat sink "goo" to hold the nut in place and helped quicken the assembly. I'm just providing hints to help you get thru this.

I've had the wonderful job of dealing with backplane cages from some older video games that instead of one board they were caged and had "shared" heat sink assemblies that you had to insert and extract both cards evenly so you didn't torgue off the parts or shift them and wind up with a mess of pieces versus two boards.
 
Got a package today.
Can anyone see a problem?

MFG_L37-3F%20SQ%20SERIES.jpg



https://www.digikey.ca/product-deta...DC0019-01-L37-3F-0.25-2A/1168-1815-ND/3466725

IMG_3460.JPG IMG_3463.JPG IMG_3464.JPG


Is that hole going to make my thermal contact, suck?
 
The picture on digikey is misleading.
They dont say what rectifier but in the application guide it shows the hole.

I didn't want to go there but its time for zero phucks.
Just gonna reuse the old ones and trim off the parts with holes, rips and thin pressure spots.
I cut the pieces as I held them to a light and its gonna have to do.
I spent a few days digging through pdf's looking for a replacement and now I'm done.
It's the Canadian way to just say phuck it

Dollar store super glue was that call of the day on the nuts. Same on the big caps


IMG_3465.JPG IMG_3466.JPG IMG_3467.JPG IMG_3468.JPG IMG_3469.JPG IMG_3471.JPG IMG_3472.JPG

IMG_3473.JPG IMG_3474.JPG IMG_3475.JPG
 
Last edited:

dxChat
Help Users
  • No one is chatting at the moment.