2950 with a few dead segments, can they be restored ? I've watched a couple of YT videos, not sure I'm a believer.......
Todd
Todd
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Can RCI lcd segments be restored ?
- Thread starter Cabover Bob
- Start date
Never tried on one the radio display types but lcd's such as in car audio players or current cell phones you can in fact massage dead pixels and get them back to flowing.
The short answer is maybe. And if so, it's risky.
And it depends on the damage. Those displays use a Liquid Crystal "sandwich" with a polarized film on the front. Such displays are easily warped by heat in the vehicles they're installed in. The sandwich 'bread' is usually glass. It don't warp, but the liquid crystal 'peanut butter' in between can, as well as the polarization film adhered to the front of it. This polarization film is the weakest link of these assemblies, usually warping even before the Liquid Crystal 'peanut butter' can.
Closely inspect the display (remove the radio face). Are there any 'bubbles' in the display, or does it appear "two-toned"?
If so, it's relatively easy to repair.... Just replace the polarized film. The beauty of this is, you can "REVERSE" the display while you're repairing it, if desired!! That's the only difference between the original 2950's dark numbers with lit-up background, and the newer 2950DX's lit-up numbers with dark background is the orientation of the film........ The same exact film is used, the only difference being the sheet's orientation, and with this film removed, the display will just be a lit up, blank screen.
The actual repair is straightforward. But you'll need to take care not to disturb the 'sandwich', much less, pull it apart. If you do, it's game-over! ;
You'll need two single-edged razor blades and 90% rubbing alcohol for cleanup.. Starting with one corner and one razor blade, get the blade up under the polarizing film on the face of the front glass. You have to peal this film completely off that glass, and cleanly too, while not putting any force on the glass. It can be done, and you may need that second razor blade to help. Don't get in a hurry! 'Slow and gentle' is the only way. Because If you mess it up, you'll need a new display.
Watch this short(ish) video. You might need to turn the subtitles on, he's hard to understand;
I'm "new" here, so I'm not sure I can provide a link to a business (I think I read something while registering, that this was a big no-no). But polarizing film, while kind of pricey, IS available from a couple sources.. So I won't provide an actual link, but always get mine from "polarization.com". They carry all kinds of polarizing film, and what you'll want is the 'self-adhesive' sheets. They come in 4" x 8" notebook paper-sized sheets that can be cut to any shape with scissors.
And it depends on the damage. Those displays use a Liquid Crystal "sandwich" with a polarized film on the front. Such displays are easily warped by heat in the vehicles they're installed in. The sandwich 'bread' is usually glass. It don't warp, but the liquid crystal 'peanut butter' in between can, as well as the polarization film adhered to the front of it. This polarization film is the weakest link of these assemblies, usually warping even before the Liquid Crystal 'peanut butter' can.
Closely inspect the display (remove the radio face). Are there any 'bubbles' in the display, or does it appear "two-toned"?
If so, it's relatively easy to repair.... Just replace the polarized film. The beauty of this is, you can "REVERSE" the display while you're repairing it, if desired!! That's the only difference between the original 2950's dark numbers with lit-up background, and the newer 2950DX's lit-up numbers with dark background is the orientation of the film........ The same exact film is used, the only difference being the sheet's orientation, and with this film removed, the display will just be a lit up, blank screen.
The actual repair is straightforward. But you'll need to take care not to disturb the 'sandwich', much less, pull it apart. If you do, it's game-over! ;
You'll need two single-edged razor blades and 90% rubbing alcohol for cleanup.. Starting with one corner and one razor blade, get the blade up under the polarizing film on the face of the front glass. You have to peal this film completely off that glass, and cleanly too, while not putting any force on the glass. It can be done, and you may need that second razor blade to help. Don't get in a hurry! 'Slow and gentle' is the only way. Because If you mess it up, you'll need a new display.
Watch this short(ish) video. You might need to turn the subtitles on, he's hard to understand;
I'm "new" here, so I'm not sure I can provide a link to a business (I think I read something while registering, that this was a big no-no). But polarizing film, while kind of pricey, IS available from a couple sources.. So I won't provide an actual link, but always get mine from "polarization.com". They carry all kinds of polarizing film, and what you'll want is the 'self-adhesive' sheets. They come in 4" x 8" notebook paper-sized sheets that can be cut to any shape with scissors.
Sure, Bob. That should work ---- MAYBE.. But the film is cheaper (though, not by much) and you'll have enough film to do about 8 RCI-29xx displays from each sheet.
Also, (the "maybe" part), I'd re-flow most of those solder joints before plugging that puppy in. They're deplorable! Who did they hire to assemble these? Hunter Biden?
EDIT! : Those two I circled in red on the top of the top pic, are NOT the actual ones to inspect and/or re-flow, but the ones underneath those, on the PCB (same as on the side we can actually see in the pic)..... DO NOT ATTEMPT TO RE-FLOW ANY OF THOSE PINS ON THE DISPLAY ITSELF. It can be done, if necessary, but you'd need to be very cautious with the heat you use, or you could damage the LC "peanut butter". From what we can make out, they look fine in the pic anyhow.
ACTUALLY, the back could stand some attention too (See C710, C711, C712)....... C713, they lucked-out on. I guess the guy had enough 1st morning coffee in him by then.
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