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Can't get the noise out of my Radio, foot on or off the gas.

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Mudduckmobile

Mudduckmobile

Well-Known Member
Oct 5, 2015
642
346
73
S.W. Washington Coast
I have never had this big of a problem with a "loud, whining sound" coming from my radio, foot on the gas or off.
Car: 2002 Honda Accord, I-4, Auto. Bone stock and all works. EVERYthing is Bonded down to the exhaust pipe.
I know how to set a mobile up...I am To the Battery. Everything is grounded. I think my Alt is just loud. NB on the Yaesu 450d will kill in coming but out is still there...Same as with Optima Mk3, 2970n4, and any of 4 outher cb's I have tried.
I have snap on beads on all the power to the radios as well.....?
 

with the motor off see if you get the noise for just a few seconds when you just turn the key to on. may be a fuel pump noise since it is constant. also unhook the antenna from the back of the radio with the noise going on and see if it stops. if it does it is coming in through the antenna.
 
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sonoma said:
with the motor off see if you get the noise for just a few seconds when you just turn the key to on. may be a fuel pump noise since it is constant. also unhook the antenna from the back of the radio with the noise going on and see if it stops. if it does it is coming in through the antenna.
Click to expand...

My vote is fuel pump whine
 
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Here's some other tips...

Turn Radio on, with ignition off (if possible) - set volume - all the controls - as if you'd be driving - it may be loud with the engine off but this helps you localize the sources (yes more than one is possible)

Listen...

Insert key - any noise (?) - some vehicles have a switch that "turns on the ECM" for a boot process which is quick turn on to "zero out" sensors during start sequence...This also starts a "buzzer" that is the Key-in ding dong...This also may initiate a DTC trouble code restore if any DTC's in transit were stored - all done by that key-in switch...

Turn key to ACC (first detent) - any noise? Note what is heard...

Turn key to ON (turns on dash lights) - note noises and pause here to allow you and the car to "stabilize" - this is where you'd hear a fuel pump hiss, whine or noise, if only for a moment as it pressurized...

Now switch to start - now check for noise...

Some noise changes "pitch" when RPM changes...Then the problem is localized to the engine.

Others are "proximity" and are run thru the ECM and usually are polled sensors. If you've always had this noise - its' not uncommon to find a bolt that grounds the chassis wiring to the vehicle - if there's age, it may have corroded and rusted the connector that grounds those wires to that spot - like Headlights and Spark Coil return - many sensors run a buss ground wire so they daisy chain along it and these "spots" on the daisy chain can be those sources of noise and the wiring then becomes the antenna you hear the noise thru.

Not to sound dumb, but have you have had any rear window damage? Like replacement? The internal defrost/defog wiring has a little "cap" suppressor located by where the wires to power that current hungry beast enter back thru a grommet into the firewall - same could be said for the Fuel Pump and even the EVAP canister.

Might be a good idea to take a moment before winter hits and take off some side interior panels and locate the harnesses - you see zip tied areas as well as several ground block points - especially along the rear taillight - markers and if you have one, even the trailer pre-wired harness for plug in adapters too...
 
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Handy Andy said:
Here's some other tips...

Turn Radio on, with ignition off (if possible) - set volume - all the controls - as if you'd be driving - it may be loud with the engine off but this helps you localize the sources (yes more than one is possible)

Listen...

Insert key - any noise (?) - some vehicles have a switch that "turns on the ECM" for a boot process which is quick turn on to "zero out" sensors during start sequence...This also starts a "buzzer" that is the Key-in ding dong...This also may initiate a DTC trouble code restore if any DTC's in transit were stored - all done by that key-in switch...

Turn key to ACC (first detent) - any noise? Note what is heard...

Turn key to ON (turns on dash lights) - note noises and pause here to allow you and the car to "stabilize" - this is where you'd hear a fuel pump hiss, whine or noise, if only for a moment as it pressurized...

Now switch to start - now check for noise...

Some noise changes "pitch" when RPM changes...Then the problem is localized to the engine.

Others are "proximity" and are run thru the ECM and usually are polled sensors. If you've always had this noise - its' not uncommon to find a bolt that grounds the chassis wiring to the vehicle - if there's age, it may have corroded and rusted the connector that grounds those wires to that spot - like Headlights and Spark Coil return - many sensors run a buss ground wire so they daisy chain along it and these "spots" on the daisy chain can be those sources of noise and the wiring then becomes the antenna you hear the noise thru.

Not to sound dumb, but have you have had any rear window damage? Like replacement? The internal defrost/defog wiring has a little "cap" suppressor located by where the wires to power that current hungry beast enter back thru a grommet into the firewall - same could be said for the Fuel Pump and even the EVAP canister.

Might be a good idea to take a moment before winter hits and take off some side interior panels and locate the harnesses - you see zip tied areas as well as several ground block points - especially along the rear taillight - markers and if you have one, even the trailer pre-wired harness for plug in adapters too...
Click to expand...
HA:
So this is what I found out today.
I tried what you have asked and others on here too, and this is what I have found.
1.The noise does change "pitch" from low to hight when I get on the gas, and from high to low when gas is off.
2. There is no noise under 1000 rpm.
3. Turn on AC noise comes on at 1000 rpm.
4. Lights on/off no noise.
5. Fuel pump, no noise.
6. noise is worse on AM them SSB.
7.With cruse control on, and just cruising no noise...only if gas is increased or decreased is there noise.
8. Checked all ground straps (removed/reinstalled) Factory/ my add on's
9. No one can here the noise when I transmit on SSB but can be hurd on AM...(.it sounds like I am on a fishing boat).
10. Motor off all is well.
11. Windows up/down makes noise motor no/ off.
12. Coax removed from radio, no noise, coax center touching radio in put no noise, coax ground touching noise.
13. Alt is good, tested at shop, and nothing could be found on computer.
14. All glass is stock, never wrecked, very well keeped up.
I'm scratching my head......
 
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Ok, that may indicate two or three things...read thru then decide...

Injectors, air intake, TBI / MAF sensor - these may be on plastic but wiring routes to snorkel and then to loom around the spark plugs - these sensors "adjust" as you drive - these need to be checked right down to the ground lugs on the engine block.

One Fan, one type of fan is in the engine compartment (Radiator or AC) - if it's ground lug to frame connection is bad, or the fan got whacked by road debris - replace it - because more than likely it got or has - water entry or the noise suppression in it has failed (seals have failed and the bearings are going out)

Another deals with the Passenger compartment fan - that is more of a deal breaker - especially if you have to locate the radio close to it. Because it may be from the fan, or the "damper" that handles air intake.

Heck for grins and giggles, I used to own an older Chevy Nova, 262 V8 Rochster2GC carb that had exhaust that smelled better than some of these newer (ahemn) POS - I would think not, but do you have turbo? How about a hood scoop? "Deconverted" back to stock? Did a bolt come loose from the mod? IT definitely seems to be engine related, just hope it's not an Air BAG sensor on a bumper somewhere letting you know in it's own particular way - that you have something ready to fall off. Or even your hood - ready to come off...

Gotta' do some diggin' into the floorboards. Hope yours is not like mine where I found rust and leaks that had standing water from all those years. Mine was two fold, the AC unit drain pipe that allows the condensate from the condenser unit to drain out - got plugged and water piled up and overflowed.

Long time ago I Bought a car used and should have taken more attention as to why I did not see water under the car when I used AC on hot days - biggest clue as to something is wrong.

Another was prior accident damages they don't tell you - had a grommet on the rear brake lights fail. It allowed all that salt, water snow and ice drain into the truck by the spare tire - a hard lesson learned there too - do like digging for a lug wrench and jack only to find them rusted onto the trucks bottom floor pan.

IF fans are not the noise, then it comes from the EVAP or antenna - you have something either in a panel close to that antenna (EVAP is close to the Gas tank - the valves at least) that is coming loose on Torque - when you accelerate decelerate - like a suspension part that if the grommet is letting the bolt strike metal - the noise from the road static can travel up into the frame making this type of noise.

The AM versus SSB reference means it a broad range of noise - this may be a ground loop issue within the radios own wiring to the vehicle. If your antenna and bracket are grounded / bolted to the frame, take and REMOVE the ground wire from the Radios' power wire - disconnect it, use the Radio Case ground or Coax shield for ground - if the noise abates - then the PROXIMITY of the ground wire grounding point and whatever the noise source is, is close by to its' connection point. (Again, back to engine - loose component due to torque or grounding wire is closer to noise source injection into ground of the frame.)

If you "borrow" a power feed - look for where it comes from. Some vehicles use a separate Frame to Battery and Engine To Battery ground scheme - which is for "detection" of power drains like cargo lamps, interior lights or even the running light head light system - can be switched off. In your case, you said you went straight to the battery. So I can only hope the routing there is as short and sweet as possible.
 
Got a friend who has had similar problems. After he looked into it there was a shift control for Auto Trans which was actually on the 27 MHz freq. If he keyed up truck would down shift from the gear it was currently in. He installed some kind of RF filter for car stereo, Wal-Mart, it has a digital voltage meter. It's cylindrical, about 10 inches long and 2-1/2 inches in dia. After he installed it and ran ground wire for CB back to negative post with multiple ground locations to body and frame noise and shift problems were gone. I run multiple ground locations with stranded wire from my antenna to frame and body. I also run multiple ground locations, body/ frame, of negative lead from radio to neg. battery post. I have a couple of older radios which no matter what you, do they just pick up the RF, Kris XL-40 and a Commtron CXX. Good Luck.
Added info:
Just looked at that RF Filter Kav installed, it's a 500K micro Farad, basically a big back-up battery with a Capacitor. Nice digital LED display for voltage. he found it on shelf at Wally World in the car stereo section. We are not sure if it works any better than a Ferrite core wrapped and a 4700uF 35v cap. I have some spare parts to build the latter. My Stryker 497 seems to pick up RF noise some, I may need it when installed into the truck. Also some clamp on toroid's along the positive lead help cut down on noise.
 
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1 thing i would try,do you have another am ssb radio? Or borrow 1 .hook it up n try it.see if its quiet. Might be you could possibly have a radio thats unexplaneably not right. And you might get a friend try yours in their vehicle. That m9ght shed lotta light into the problem.
HANG IN THERE WE ARE THINKING
 
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