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chinese made cobra cb radios?

Well, the best way to find those earlier versions required you to remove the case covers to see the board number, or look at the Serial plate on the back...sometimes they put "Uniden" somewhere on it. Taiwan was the last known good origin proof of Unidens hands in the assembly.

MAYBE - Philippines

Later versions? KEPC on the board...not PA/PB or PC id's - Malaysia was their usual origin then...
 
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MAYBE - Philippines
these models were indestructible (my opinion) the uniden 78 is a rock solid radio. I even bounce an rci 2950 in a semi for 4 years, and it is still going. it was one that had the green lights on the front.
 
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Can the NW power supply be found for the latest NW 29's?
I always heard that was the issue with the older ones. They died and you couldn't find replacements. So I never bothered looking at used ones.

It may sound superficial to most here but the black face NW 29 would 100% match my ride's interior lights and dash. I do a lot of night driving.

Edit: it looks like they don't actually come in black? Just confusing advertising to show off the NW?
Maybe I will just recap my tired old Texas Ranger 696 (n)
 
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Can the NW power supply be found for the latest NW 29's?
I always heard that was the issue with the older ones. They died and you couldn't find replacements. So I never bothered looking at used ones.

It may sound superficial to most here but the black face NW 29 would 100% match my ride's interior lights and dash. I do a lot of night driving.

Edit: it looks like they don't actually come in black? Just confusing advertising to show off the NW?
Maybe I will just recap my tired old Texas Ranger 696 (n)
There’s no simple fix for the defunct NW illumination. The cost of new panel (if you can find one) plus labor involved is usually prohibited. The contacts are painted on. Even a small scratch during installation (tightening of all the pot nuts) will destroy it. If you want a black front plate, don’t forget you can still get custom vinyl decals.
 
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If you're just starting out may I suggest the Uniden PC78LTX. It looks and operates just like a Cobra 29 and straight out of the box will do a fine job. Keep the "golden screwdrivers" out of it! Run it for a while and if you find you want to upgrade, go for it! Keep the Uniden for a back-up. Can't beat the price and, being a surface mount chassis, should hold up real well in mobile use

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Uniden-PC78LTX-40-channel-CB-Radio-with-SWR-Meter/52675402

JMHO!
JD
 
Well every swap meet and ham fest is canceled because of covid fear this year so I think my chances of actually finding a NW 29 in the wild where zero. So i decided to roll the dice and ordered one from Rightchannelradios.

The build date is Jan2020 in china.
It "works". NW looks good. And only the channel control feels really cheesy. It is an encoder. The mic feels like a toy and the PTT rattles if you shake it.

I didn't touch a thing and wont until I find the service manual or alignment procedure for this board.
kepc-1106-x8 jun2019

RX sinad is 118.2@12
TX dead key 4.3w but -170Hz off freq. Modulating in the 11teens%.
The PLL is a 24pin DIP.

The fun is found inside :unsure:
cobra1.jpg cobra2.jpg cobra3.jpg

One leg of VR2 may have been missed? (*EDIT: I sent pics of the board to my buddy who manufactures pcb's and he said its wave soldered so if there wasnt an exposed copper pad there then it isnt missed)

Looks like a bridged trace by C28?
Hopefully I can find a schematic.
IMG_0576.jpg
 
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Welcome to the Forum!

Cobra 29's are pretty much a "Staple" of everyday life for many people.

There have been upgrades, revisions - then revisions to the upgrades which seem to be more of a DOWNGRADE than a "making life better thru communication" effort.

These are the "default" generic approaches by the Chinese as to how they feel about CB radios - they don't make them like they used to. In some ways, China took over what other counties did - so you're seeing their take on quality and technology.

Your PLL inside the radio is also different - has an extra 2 pins to it. Still scratching my head as to the "Why" about that - I'd offer to "stay tuned" but that might be more of a misnomer than an actual working statement.

If you need help, CB Tricks has got several radio chassis "manuals" on that Radio, not the exact, but again, each one is a minor revision - mostly due to parts being changed or re-dimensioning and availability problems - so they used a different source for the parts, KEPC versus older Uniden - these are made for Cobra, thru a 3rd party vendor. You get what you pay for.

As far as your board type?

This is about as close as you're going to get

http://cbtricks.com/radios/cobra/29_lx_le/index.htm

That is for a 1141 board, yours is not that far behind...you have a TDA2005/2003 Audio Chip - those are 5-pin upgrades to their older flat-pack style of the 9~10 pin SIPPs.

If you need help with the Nightwatch Illumination - that "little silver box", you have in your side panel shot - is this...

Your Night Watch Illumination EL board circuit...
upload_2020-10-14_21-39-26.png
 
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Andy thanks for the welcome and the links. I can at least now identify what does what on the board.
I see the 5 pin audio chip now and the difference on older schematics.
I seem fine with the way my vr2 is soldered and now know it's for the meter which is working fine.

As for alignment I found this and it looks like the layout mostly matches what I have. I'm going to run through it when I get a chance.
https://www.scribd.com/document/325416112/Cobra-29-Ltd-Alignment-instructions

Yes the QC and workmanship is kinda suspect on this rig but I think it's neat that it's still through hole discrete components I can tinker with with out having to recap or unhack anything. I don't have the eyes, hands, or skill to be messing with SMT stuff lol
 
You're quite welcome!

Thanks for not flaming me over the links, like "Hey! Thats' not what My Radio Looks Like!" - which would be true...

But you don't judge a book by it's cover...

upload_2020-10-15_7-37-51.png
Lest we Forget "Taming of The Shrew" - was really a Romantic Parody,
not a Rodent Infestation - albeit the concepts are similar in result....​

The board you have inside has a problem. What you will need to look at, and I wanted to point out what you found....

upload_2020-10-15_7-48-31.png


The point you show can be cleaned up a bit, but surprised that it didn't blow up on the table...It takes a good eye to locate faults like this. Not to worry though, it's a common grounding point for many of the front panel controls - keeps the noise level down but looks like Hades' if they overdo the solder.

Might as well show you what we deal with on a regular basis...
upload_2020-10-15_7-58-55.png
One board, on top is the KEPC-1090
while the Board below it is the KEPC-1141​

Not to overwhelm you but if you look at your board, and the layouts of the other boards - all are similar. They found a layout design that works and provides the best tradeoff of performance, discrete outline and ease of service and reliability ...
  • Note the GND points, those are for the Potentiometers from the front panel - return here.
  • VR2 - also "missing leg" no soldering pad - seems poor, but they wanted to mount, not ground there, and for the reasons of parallel resistance and ohms law, it attenuates a signal, thru adjustable resistance as an impedance not as an attenuator to drop - or dissipate - power thru it - best to leave it there like it is.
  • Note the solder mask itself (Yellow) the GND pad outline uses "notches" to designate the wire and the direction it arrives from a point in the radio, solders in from that point and tells the assembler (and you) which direction the wire comes in from, to this point. So flip the board over and you'll see their harness "Dressed" in a particular way, you'll need to remember this later.
Also - you were good to take pics of the radio, these can someday help you in providing a method in which to restore the radio to an earlier point in time - especially when tune ups go wrong or work was done to the radio and if the unfortunate were to happen. you have a way - a record of how to undo it, to restore it's original condition.
 
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Ya I always take tons of pics and measurements of stuff I am working on before and after. It helps me to go back to square 1 or to pickup after putting something down for a while.

Thank you for taking the time to break these boards down for me. Flipping through all the revisions and seeing the differences it is at least good that they kept the same basic layout and labels mostly the same. ie L2 and VR2 does the same thing in every revision.

So far so good. I spent some time going over the board and looking for more issues besides the 2 you pointed out. Other then reflowing some iffy looking joints and trimming some long leads I didn't really find much else concerning.

I ran through the alignment procedure and if my "out of box" numbers above seemed to good to be true thats because they where. I was generating at 100% mod when I should have been at 30%. :whistle:
So out of the box I was actually -107.5 and after some twiddling I am down to -109.4dBm@12. I am thinking this about what I should expect?

I did manage to get the TX freq right on and cleaned up the 2nd harmonic. The modulation was actually set real low and with a better mic it has some punch to it now.
Over all I think I am happy with it :)
IMG_0601.jpg
 
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You're stats on the realignment look pretty good, there's of-course, the Grey area of what can be discerned when in actual real world events like Propagation events and ambient noises in proximity to the receiver and the antenna and the ability to process the dynamics of the signals embedded in the noise.

Many don't look at a Cobra 29 as the ultimate in receiver technology - they just want to know the traffic up ahead or maybe the local time so they can figure out the Time Zone change..

But the real proof is in the shouldering of the Filtering from simple ceramic resonators onto the Xtal approach.

Now in the newer non-Discretes' - they have an issue of "White noise" - they are forgetting a simple process that actually increases the receivers noise floor, but at the same time - DECREASES the Signal to Noise ratios...They did away with a simple Electrolytic or Tantalum filter smoothing cap - which "drags down" the compression effects caused by the quicker response the IF signal capture to AGC action - a simple regulation problem. You need an Analog delay to the AGC loop - too little the White noise appears, apply too much, the signal and it's swing in carrier - causes a level of distortion making the receiver appear like it's overloaded.

So out of the box I was actually -107.5 and after some twiddling I am down to -109.4dBm@12. I am thinking this about what I should expect?

I did manage to get the TX freq right on and cleaned up the 2nd harmonic. The modulation was actually set real low and with a better mic it has some punch to it now.
Over all I think I am happy with it :)

You're in a realm of performance that requires a good clean reception and open air approach to capture that performance on a regulator basis - it is a challenge.


Just Some examples of 2nd IF strips that use a "cap" (C18 - note Value used) to help make an otherwise fast tracking compression effect - slowed down to give the audio envelope a linear curve on an otherwise tight compression circuit design.
upload_2020-10-16_8-11-39.png


Cobra 25GTL - Note C22 Tantalum

upload_2020-10-16_8-18-19.png

Your Cobra 29 - Note C27...10uF

upload_2020-10-16_8-22-45.png

Each subsequent design has it's hits and misses, but the overall effects are to make the receiver more appealing to the listeners ear than to provide high-performance capture and processing.

So you know, not everyone whom manufactures their radios, does this little warm welcome effort to their radios - they either skip the parts needed for the sake of economics or they never paid attention to what the end user needs to hear, versus wants to hear - they can be two vastly different things to deal with.

IF you listen to how some people use their radios, this seems to be more of the inherited trait of the background radiation noise one must account for - than a true effort of others willing to trying to, communicate.

No matter how you look at it, enjoy the learning curve - I'm sure you'll be making quite a few friends along the way.
 
Andy,
Thanks again these posts are great education. I have been playing with it on air and have it paired with an old Ranger mic and moto speaker in my Jeep. So far so good. Now I need to work on improving the other 2/3rds of the system. Cleaning up the power and antenna.

I think I may look to pick up another channel encoder based Cobra29 to mess with. I had this wacky idea about implementing SCAN with one of the old picaxes's or BasicStamp's I have kicking around. It would be easy to step the channels, I just need to study how the squelch circuit works.
 
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No matter how you look at it, enjoy the learning curve - I'm sure you'll be making quite a few friends along the way.

So more learning.

So I ended up getting a KL203P amp. And I am thinking I need to lower the dead key on this 29.
Reading old threads there seems to be 2 methods both involving JP36.
Stacking diodes or limiting DC current via a resistor and a cap to pass the AC.
Are these still the best 2 options for these radios or has something better been thought of for the newer chassis?
 
Did you want Variable?

Try this thread
https://www.worldwidedx.com/threads...e-key-for-the-cobra-29-radios-no-joke.240485/

Else you can use the "Resistor/Capacitor" Combo mod, with various values and see what works for you.

The latter option, isn't as flexible. Because you can't vary the key up, if you set for 1-1/2 Watt to 2 Watt Dead Key - you're stuck with that.

The idea here is to make it "bypassable" Use a simple switch like the DSC(78) / Ch 9 (29) and just carefully use the switch to short out the mod when you want full power - else - when the switch opens, the mod takes precedence.

But if you use the right values in both Resistor (2W rating please) and Capacitor - you don't need 10,000uF - let alone fit it in there - use smaller values to achieve various effects...and you may not even need the "switchable" method either you need to set it up so you "sound the same" between the amp on, and bypassed. You'll see what I mean as you work your system. Too much emphasis on capacitor higher values, you "SWING" and Pinch up a bit too much - lower it down! Back it off - you're not there to sounds like those that don't know any better...same applies also to your Resistor, too high in values, reduces your carrier too much and you'll sound - like - well...nevermind...
 
Thanks again Andy,
Hopefully this weekend I'll have some time to play around with a few different values and report back with my findings.
I wasn't planning on doing a variable but might do a bypass switch in the back.
 

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