• You can now help support WorldwideDX when you shop on Amazon at no additional cost to you! Simply follow this Shop on Amazon link first and a portion of any purchase is sent to WorldwideDX to help with site costs.
  • Click here to find out how to win free radios from Retevis!

Cleaning up Interference Noise???

QUOTE="ForestRunner98, post: 733461, member: 57126"]Is that almost S9 in noise or were you RX at that moment??[/QUOTE]

Sitting or moving with engine on. A whine that changes according to engine rpm.

S9 is almost always external conditions. The radio shows S3-S5 most times and in most places after dark. Rises with the sun and local activity.

Thru the course of a day, the meter will reflect a background. What’s audible works a little differently.

Here at 0530, it’s easy to very clearly hear any passing trucks on AM-19. As the day gets underway, the space fills with other voices to be adjusted out via RF Gain, Squelch, and adding more DSP Filtration. If Skip comes in the back door, hearing anyone audibly at a distance becomes challenging on AM-19.

Local comms improved. I can “hear” problems in the other man’s set-up such that making guesses about his rig problems became easier.

Yesterday talked on & off with another driver literally all the way across Mississippi and Louisiana. Same company, but he was using factory mounts with a pair of Francis. Others chimed in. Had some oversized loads with pilot cars working. It was easier to make better conversations as less drop-out of words were occurring with guys a mile or more away.

There is a WIDE range of performance from others rigs to consider. Some good, and some almost unbelievably bad.

The whine is present, but not an interference, per se.

Right now, engine-off, all is wide open. Cleaner, when RX starts. (Truck key position makes no change when engine off).

The Bond Experiment (gear cases) cut off some continuous noise spikes. The level of overall noise will rise & fall, but now some static interference (some source spikes) is substantially muted.

I do NOT have an efficient antenna mount.
(I need to get a new phase harness built).

Worth a try.

Another noise experiment is with a WORKMANN Coax Static Bleed (Lighting Arrestor) installed at back of radio. 1/4” braid with hook terminals in a few inches run to ground from device screw. This is to try and cut noise off of the coaxial cable before the transceiver.

A057494E-B21F-425E-8439-4FF0C93D86BF.jpeg

Here’s an example from NAPA. Serrated ends. Shortest possible is best. I “shortened” and “joined” my case grounds by aligning them and using a pair of copper split-bolts to hold them tight at length desired, AND in continuous full contact on overlap.


E7CD430E-8CDE-4458-BBA8-B7C435B8CB66.jpeg

(Recommendation is from the Clays Radio website).

Re DC & RFI: I’ve seen different discussions of grounding radio gear (HAM Base Station with full spectrum gear). Some “daisy-chain” them together AND THEN to a ground point (used as example of what not to do; chasing voltage potentials).

More often is recommended ALL gear separately to a common ground bar.

Here, (11-Meter in Class 8 tractor) three braid straps went to a single union from case screws (except tuner with dedicated ground), thence to the RF ground (only way I could do it with what’s at hand).

“Better” than I did it is probably out there. I’m satisfied it’s worth the trouble in a big truck to see if it helps. (It did).

The DC ground for Radio Power is on the truck frame. POS fused nearby at BATT. 35’ dedicated circuit starts/stops below cab.

As that’s barely enough ampacity to maintain a 3% voltage drop maximum at 10A (and I reckon the system at 20A for planning) establishing a ground in the overhead is another experiment soon to come. One-half the current power cable circuit is “right” for the 10-AWG I’m using. (See MARINCO 3% Voltage Drop AWG Calculator).

Behind the radio gear is this 4-way distribution box. Makes swapping out power easy, not just other gear. I’m using flat duplex cable now. Have some 8-AWG single at home ready to use (Red POS terminated & fused at 20’. I’ll prep a piece of black NEG to run from box to nearby DC ground).

A6481B73-3BC1-482B-B328-DE4F61D489D0.jpeg

An RF ground a bit of a distance from the DC ground (is this mornings plan). Advice welcomed (as always).

What grounds? How & Where? DC & RF.

.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: ForestRunner98
I’d like to recommend what I’ve been doing for years, and I’ve also seen Big Kahuna recommend (on a 980; I do it with every mobile).

1). Turn from AM-19 to a close unused channel after Volume confirmed good for your use.

2). Adjust RF Gain downwards from full open to the meter just moving down (this becomes experience on what works: just how much?).

3). Adjust Squelch slowly to cut all sound altogether. Just.

4). Return to 19 and back off Squelch enough that there’s no drop-out of sound of any sort. (The usual static). The minimum.

— This tends to make what’s audible more so.

— There’s no reason to make the radio try to deal with everything out there.

— Don’t be surprised at dialing in a LOT of Squelch to achieve above. A full half turn or more.

Chasing noise and being successful is to reduce the apparent S-unit static, AND to have to use less Squelch to clearly make out what’s available to your rig in its present state.

Retain awareness that it’s not either a perfect test or that conditions external to your gear won’t give different results on different days (it will).

Regular use of the equipment is the best overall “test”. You’ll know improvements aren’t imaginary.

Set the radio as above as first step (is what I do daily, parked). Checking connections is prelude, as are visual examinations.

As I get down the road, changes may (will) be made from a KNOWN starting point.

Note: As I travel I set the transceiver speaker volume just loud enough to hear TX if stereo is playing.

Leaving the volume high enough to listen to someone becomes wearing in a 9-10/hour driving day.

Adjusting that down that I note voices (but not what’s being said), is more than adequate to a long day.

I can pause other sounds, and turn up the transceiver. Continue, or turn it back down.

— Lengthy conversation worth following; topic unimportant. That can change instantly to something of interest.

— Several voices noted is ALWAYS worth following. You may have missed what started them (out of range, etc), and they’ll return to the visual that got them on the audio.

— Nothing stops you from getting something going. Listen awhile and you’ll learn how others do it. Some have a practiced routine. Some have excellent insults. Some are just naturals.

.
 
Last edited:
27A90C00-EA99-4B19-8BDB-ECAA135F7485.jpeg

NAVONE ENGINEERING N-700

Is the sort of electronic filter advertised to “cure” alternator whine. (Where “cure” may be a great reduction versus elimination).

Inline.

Fuse Green to 12V source. Run Red to device. Ground Black to chassis.

I’m told these reduce voltage somewhat, but radio user report from years back was good.

Other brands available. See Bells or Bobs or wearecb CB Radio online catalogs.

.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Shadetree Mechanic
Today, a first step for me has been the:

PALOMAR ENGINEER

FSB31-1/2
Snap-On Ferrite Bead

To wrap the radio power harness as supplied new. Don’t cut or modify, just wrap it through. Only a short section at end to radio remaining. (Use some tape to hold it all together).

6BFBB8AB-7C5B-488D-A879-A58C4392FA21.png

Where one is supplying power thru the vehicle fuse panel (big truck binding posts) this has been a reliable noise reduction method.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Shadetree Mechanic
  • Like
Reactions: Shadetree Mechanic
Hi,
After installing my Uniden 980, I'm noticing some (not a lot...but)

Interference noise coming from the AC Fan, and Windshield Wiper Motor!

I am using #4 wire coming straight from battery for power and ground.

Any easy fixes for this????


I can still hear the washer pump, but not so it’s distracting any more.

.
 
Today, a first step for me has been the:

PALOMAR ENGINEER

FSB31-1/2
Snap-On Ferrite Bead

To wrap the radio power harness as supplied new. Don’t cut or modify, just wrap it through. Only a short section at end to radio remaining. (Use some tape to hold it all together).

View attachment 46479

Where one is supplying power thru the vehicle fuse panel (big truck binding posts) this has been a reliable noise reduction method.


Addendum: Changed power draw to 6-AWG in a 36’ circuit to BATT. Still used (only) the ferrite shown AND only on supplied radio cord as described in linked post.

The circuit — though a potentially long antenna — is quieter (as expected) and 12VDC is adequately treated.

Original power draw was about 12’ of 10-AWG.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Shadetree Mechanic

dxChat
Help Users
  • No one is chatting at the moment.
  • dxBot:
    Greg T has left the room.
  • @ BJ radionut:
    EVAN/Crawdad :love: ...runna pile-up on 6m SSB(y) W4AXW in the air
    +1
  • @ Crawdad:
    One of the few times my tiny station gets heard on 6m!:D
  • @ Galanary:
    anyone out here familiar with the Icom IC-7300 mods