Cobra 148 GTL....Taiwan. Is it a keeper?

[144inBama]

Why to change caps if radio if working fine?

cheap, easy insurance that it will continue to work.
I'd be willing to bet, as learned here, the caps are drying out and aren't 100% efficient. The radio is used so he has no first hand knowledge of how it operates after a long conversation, warming/heating up, which is where caps show their weakness and fail. If mine hadn't already been replaced, I was going to recap before installing JUST to make sure at least that those parts wouldn't fail....but I'm just guessing.

 

[sp5it]

And result is nicely butchered oldtimer.
You do the same with TV, kitchen radio? Maybe air condition controller?
Mike

 

[144inBama]

And result is nicely butchered oldtimer.
You do the same with TV, kitchen radio? Maybe air condition controller?
Mike

So I'm guessing you wait for your engine to start knocking before changing the oil or your tires to blow out before you change them?

 

[sp5it]

Oil is changed on regular basis described in the manual. When tire need to be replaced it is also easy to spot.
But replacing one working electronic parts with another does not make sense to me.
I deal with many old radios, I replaced a few capacitors in them, but only defective ones. What can be measured with multimeter.
Mike

 

[338_MtRushmore]

I recapped my junky 148gtl, but my nice grant xl stays as is. I like tinkering, but I decided I've butchered enough radios and spared the grant. It's been several years and I'm still glad the grant is stock. That's just me though.

 

[144inBama]

Oil is changed on regular basis described in the manual. When tire need to be replaced it is also easy to spot.
But replacing one working electronic parts with another does not make sense to me.
I deal with many old radios, I replaced a few capacitors in them, but only defective ones. What can be measured with multimeter.
Mike

I really can't argue with what you're saying, but I do own a Capacitance meter that is solely for measuring capacitors. I also do not see how replacing caps is "butchering" a radio? I have it to talk on, I put it back to as close to stock as possible when I got it, no mods, no clipped diodes or resistors, except TR24 and no one has said if I need it back or not. In my field, we replace old parts before they fail, thus preventing a failure of said part during production causing a loss of production. No, this is not the "same" but it is preventing a failure of old parts.

 

[338_MtRushmore]

If you want to recap it, then do so. I recall having the same argument on what it meant to "butcher". Its actually funny now, but my definition has changed. If I had a power supply or something that was known to take out the whole radio when the caps went, I would call that preventative maintenance.

Just do it

 

[nomadradio]

My general rule is governed by cockroach theory.

If you see one roach out in the open, you can assume there are many more out of sight.

Until the first one or two electrolytics goes bad, you're right. Nothing broke to fix.

When the first one or two fails, the rest of the string of dominoes is probably not far behind. You can change them one or a few at a time as they fail. We call that "electronic whack-a-mole". Or all at once. Just a choice.

There is one capacitor we change on old sold-state radios just to prevent annoyed customers. Once a solid-state radio makes it to 30 or 35 years old we change the audio-chip blocking cap. The one between the chip's output pin and the speaker. Especially if it's rated only for 10 or 12 Volts. If it shorts, kiss the audio chip and your speaker both goodbye. Cheap insurance.

Since electrolytics often fail when a radio is put back in service after a long shelf nap, this is a legit preventive measure, IMHO.

73

 

[543_Dallas]

I would only consider replacing the electrolytics as butchering if the work was sloppy.

 

[Trailblazer]

this should work.....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cobra-148-...387909?hash=item2165799645:g:n5IAAOSwv0peyano

Ty for your response and forgive me for late response, I had family matters in Oregon needing my attention. I will be ordeing soon
Cheers,
Rob

 

[Trailblazer]

The caps in the 148 you got from me came from Klondike Mike. I was too lazy to go through that one and order caps. His kit was 100% complete and all name brand stuff. I seem to remember having a couple of extras. Just check the board number and make sure you get the right kit.

Why to change caps if radio if working fine?

Ty for your comment, and there are a couple of factors I am considering .One is because the large cap by the transformer in the rear has a slight bulge on top and the other reason is that it has sat unused for many years. I thought I read somewhere here that capacitors in unused radios "dry out". Ive a bit of time as I am building a modified yagi for some specific objectives, Either way your point is well taken..."if it aint broke...."
Cheers,
Rob

 

[Trailblazer]

Oil is changed on regular basis described in the manual. When tire need to be replaced it is also easy to spot.
But replacing one working electronic parts with another does not make sense to me.
I deal with many old radios, I replaced a few capacitors in them, but only defective ones. What can be measured with multimeter.
Mike

And your point is well taken and I appreciate the response. I am leaning towards your viewpoint , but will have the kit onhand should I need it.
cheers,
Rob

 

[Klondike Mike]

... He used to give a discount for not using ebay,

Any purchase from my website is TAX FREE. Whereas, eBay adds on tax for your state.

https://klondikemikescapkits.com/pr...en-grant-xl-pc-412-electrolytic-capacitor-kit

 

[Klondike Mike]

,,,,All the kits on Flea Bay looked like cheap, no name brand electrolytics. If I could find an assortment of quality Nichicon, or Panisonic etc even if I got many I didnt need I would.

Except my kits. I only include various tier 1 manufacturers in my kits. No Chinese counterfeits. Rubycon, Nichicon, Panasonic, MultiComp Pro, etc.

https://klondikemikescapkits.com/collections/all

 

[nomadradio]

I'll chime in here and confirm my experience with Mike's kits. He uses legitimate-brand parts. No no-name one-lung-sam chinesium. We install several of them a year, and the quality is consistently high. Our customers save a little money with Mike's kits. I stock pretty much whatever we need, but my labor to pull two dozen or more parts from stock costs the customer money, compared to the price of Mike's ready-to-go kit.

Full replacement of *ALL* the electrolytics has one advantage. You won't be playing "electronic Whack-a-Mole", replacing them one by two as they fail down the road. Once the first one or two goes bad, or looks swollen you know the dominoes have begun to fall. The only question from that point is how quickly they'll quit one by two.

When the first one fails or looks bad, it's no longer a question of "if", but of when the ball began to roll down the hill.

73