Cobra 18 WX ST II (don’t laugh)

[Slowmover]

I found a high, remote spot past the edge of the Metroplex a few decades back where I would finalize making SWR-compatible changes.

Problem was in resisting temptation to again tweak them later .

I also labored under mis-understanding about the importance of “low” SWR.

In the big truck it’s obstacles more than anything else (high tension power lines) that’ll cause me to pull over at a better area.

Past that may be soil-composition and rock-content.

1). What is SWR at home (best spot in driveway or around the block)?

2). What is SWR at best high spot in my region?

— I’ve felt this covers it pretty well.

In the big truck if I’m below 1.5:1 then more adjustments (realistically) is tail-chasing. I should instead think, RF Bond, not antenna length.

In a private vehicle, you all might find it worthy to try different antennas at those multiple locations.

IIRC, 2NC995 did a bit of this with his pickup (an aside in a different-subject thread).

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[Rebel Outlaw]

That’s so true!! A Rig Expert analyzer would have been nice but the price was out of my range. If I did more installs I could see the benefit. But for $55 that Nano performed well. I watched some YouTube channels on how to calibrate it. Not difficult at all...at least checking for SWR.


Already been done. Just those 8 straps from body to frame was the last piece. Used eyelets, crimped and soldered.

How do you like the Nano VNA?
I think I should get one too! Easy to use? Can you just use it or do you need to download anything before use?
I would mainly use it as an antenna analyzer.
I was also looking at the Rig Expert, however I can't justify the price right now.
73.

 

[ForestRunner98]

How do you like the Nano VNA?
I think I should get one too! Easy to use? Can you just use it or do you need to download anything before use?
I would mainly use it as an antenna analyzer.
I was also looking at the Rig Expert, however I can't justify the price right now.
73.

I like a lot! It’s not too hard to use. Watch a few vids and it’s pretty easy. Didn’t need to download anything to make it work. Only if you have it hooked up onto a laptop. Ya a Rig Expert is more sturdy for sure but this Nano works for me!!

 

[Rebel Outlaw]

I like a lot! It’s not too hard to use. Watch a few vids and it’s pretty easy. Didn’t need to download anything to make it work. Only if you have it hooked up onto a laptop. Ya a Rig Expert is more sturdy for sure but this Nano works for me!!

Than you ForestRunner98
I will get one too. Just looking for something more reliable, accurate and with more functions than a regular swr meter.
I appreciate your feedback, thanks.
73.

 

[Slowmover]

Ya it’s basically done at this point. But you know how that goes...LOL

As for voltage drop I haven’t checked on that but the alternator is a few months old and the 203 really powers up when the truck is on.

Just looking at DSP but as of now it’s not my top priority. I just don’t use it enough to really benefit but I can see the advantage of it. There are are ferrites at the feed point, a toroid choke and a Palomar CMF-500 at the radio. There is slight ignition “pop” but it’s coming into the antenna. Coax disconnected and there is absolute silence. Trying to fix that is a challenge. But the McKinley NB/ANL does a great job of silencing it!

I do have good mobile to mobile contact. 35 miles or so non skip conditions on AM. So far 60 miles is the best I have done on 19am. Not too bad from a 203.

Pass SLO up? Na!! They’re just two different type vehicles that have their own challenges. Future?? Looking at a small 2 pill or maybe 4. I can use the 203 to drive it. Depends on what Mr. Wallet says!!

If one already has an amp, DSP gives ears to match the louder voice.

The radio can hear, but not quite translate.

If I recounted how regular it is for me to reply to someone whom I can make out — but who can’t hear me — the point would make itself.

Others do as they will (I’m not trying to argue, per se), but a louder voice won’t bring in those who can hear him now, but whom he does not hear.

I’ve a range of 11-Meter radios.
Average to very good.

DSP makes the poorest as good, maybe better than the best of those (without the statement made in concrete).

Doubling the S-Meter receive at the other end could be BIG expensive.

Not missing out hearing even the mouse farts, isn’t expensive.

In that thread, look to those using such with sophisticated base station antennas & gear.

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[ForestRunner98]

Was bored today so I decided to make a new ground/bond from the engine to body.



Piggybacked a 1” strap with the puny OEM ground. Well so far by driveway test it seems to have knocked down noise 1 S level. Further testing is needed but I figure the new strap can’t hurt either way.

 

[Eldorado828]

Was bored today so I decided to make a new ground/bond from the engine to body.

View attachment 56942

Piggybacked a 1” strap with the puny OEM ground. Well so far by driveway test it seems to have knocked down noise 1 S level. Further testing is needed but I figure the new strap can’t hurt either way.

It's wild the ground cable used by the auto manufacturers, just barely enough and in some cases not enough just to run the oem electronics.

I ran into that often when in car audio. In those types of installs everything grounds to body and short as possible. Many times we'd find the body wasn't anything near sufficient so we'd have to run new grounds parallel with the oem points or better to get proper ground for maximum performance. Over and over we'd be shocked when something we hadn't worked on came in.... Japanese cars seemed to use the worst points and used the absolute smallest cable for grounds.... Factor in corrosion or age and things just got worse. There were even times when a customer came back to say that we had inadvertently fixed something we didn't even know was broken and guess what.... turns out after our ground cables were added, something was getting proper ground so it was working correctly again haha.

By the way, your strap looks well made! Add a little spray or dielectric grease to keep the moisture from compromising your work.

 

[ForestRunner98]

Totally agree on the pathetic OEM grounds! I have a 90’ Civic with Fosgste audiophile 8” drivers with a old school RF Punch 150HD and a A/D/S pq8 and redid all the grounds. Sounds great!

Thanks! They are crimped, soldered and shrink wrapped. I actually have fun making them! LOL

 

[Slowmover]

My Dodge CTD (build 08/2003) has gotten long-in-the-tooth, and the radio project for it is stalled till a completely new dual battery harness (huge size upgrade) is installed along with size-upgraded batteries & alternator.

As one tech-savvy contributor on those forums notes, the CTD is using hundreds of watts during operation. Age, past geographical conditions, is enough reason to start from scratch on the primary & secondary.

I’ve still several dozen RF Bonds sitting in the back seat (with matching DC Grounds) to get the PUCK MOUNT preliminaries done.

Radio is a sort of nice excuse to both improve & revive components on an electric-hungry vehicle (typical array of standard power features) which also must power a travel trailer while underway.

“Assuming” a radio system with a significant amp draw (not “big” per the parlance of type, but definitely not small), power drop to trailer systems (refrigerator/freezer; plus other) needs to be accounted.

Planning I haven’t yet done.

So, pickup DC Grounds — as with posts just above — are in process of being replaced with larger and supplemented by additional.

Ground Return from trailer will be included.

— Allow me the suggestion to factor that for ANY vehicle (U-haul, etc) so that last-minute preps aren’t interrupted.

Factory or aftermarket Trailer Wiring Harnesses are minimal for ampacity & durability. A consumable item via age alone (alike to dry-rotted tires).

One might wish to run a field radio operation from a minivan or pickup tailgate (inverter; etc).

DC Grounds (past power supplied) is much more than just firewall or engine bay OEM upgrade concerns, then.

The climb out of the SoCal Death Bowl (bad scenario imagined) to reach IH-15 on a hot summer day is case-in-point. Every System Under Strain.

“Yessiree, I’ma workin’ my tail off to get to . . Death Valley”.

Let’s make it harder: have to divert to old US-66 what with very bad traffic snarls ahead. (vehicle full of family and trailer sorta maxed out).

 

[Handy Andy]

Let’s make it harder: have to divert to old US-66 what with very bad traffic snarls ahead. (vehicle full of family and trailer sorta maxed out).

Good to see you still check out the mail here...

But knowing the terrain, even the Best A/C can still blow 90F into the passenger compartment because there is just not enough difference in temperature in which to exchange the heat...

To get back on the rails...

@Eldorado828 and @ForestRunner98 - nice work on that strapping - it is unfortunate for even in my newer 18' I have had to scramble to find better grounding points and even (re)solder some of their lugs to the "specified" bond points to maintain drivability.

 

[ForestRunner98]

@Slowmover Ya thanks for the update on the Dodge!

@Handy Andy Its a shame when car makers cheap out on parts that’s essential for the operation of the vehicle and the possible future assesories one may install.

 

[Shadetree Mechanic]

Was bored today so I decided to make a new ground/bond from the engine to body.

View attachment 56942

Piggybacked a 1” strap with the puny OEM ground. Well so far by driveway test it seems to have knocked down noise 1 S level. Further testing is needed but I figure the new strap can’t hurt either way.

Looks nice, I should do that to my Ranger. Do you have the doors and hood done too?

 

[ForestRunner98]

Looks nice, I should do that to my Ranger. Do you have the doors and hood done too?

Thanks!! I have both sides of the hood, doors and rear hatch. Although I want to upgrade the doors since they have 1/2” braid. 4, 1” braid from frame to body on each side. Exhaust at 3 spots along it’s run.

 

[ForestRunner98]

Here are some examples…





I bought 10’ of this and I am almost out. When I replace the door braids I will def need more. Only thing is this stuff got expensive lately!!!

 

[Smokinone]

I might be a little off topic, but I had a 93 Toyota pickup I put a 102" whip on and had a lot of noise. I bought it new, and took it to the dealer to see if they had a solution. Nothing was really found there, but, I had changed the plugs to the SplitFire I think they were called. Looking for a little more economy and power I guess. Well, I ended up putting the factory plugs back in and the noise went away. Seems Toyota had/has a patented plug design and the after market plugs were spurious.