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Cobra 25 LTD Classic, no voltage change tuning

I think Mark and Baconator are the same person. Check their profiles, they have the same birthdate.
Mark, pick one profile and stick to it. The moderators on this board do not allow multiple user names from the same person. Contact a moderator for help with this, maybe they can merge your 2 profiles under 1 login, so your latest posts as Baconator are retained and not deleted under the one profile you choose to keep.

Screenshot_20210608-080423.png
 
As to this radio, if you get stuck, write notes about it and put it in the radio and set it aside for later review, start on another one.

D2, and D1, D19, D20 are in the front end of the radio before the 1st RX transformer, and are used as PIN diodes for RF Gain and AGC self adjustment. Why would that "Pop" ?
 
Mark, just wanted to slip in a message to let you know that I hope you beat this radio.....and get it working better than new. Best of luck....
Hey, thanks, when I put my mind to something, I try my best to get it done. I know this radio is a dime a dozen, but this radio is under my skin, been up till 4 in the morning reading and trying to diagnose, the point I am trying to prove is that a broken radio can be repaired by anyone who puts their mind to it, wants to learn something on electronics, ( Transceivers ) CB Radio's, just accomplish a task, on something that was working one minute, then takes a crap the next. I am trying to do something that is totally different in my line of thinking, I am going to beat this thing one way or the other, with a gallon of gas or this radio will be up and running. I am sure it is something simple. I noticed that if I start touching the pots with my screwdriver, on the sides and push on this one can I start to get receive. I may want to check the solder joints, and check the core, it may be cracked, it's weird, it is like a loose wire, back to the drawing board. Take it easy, stay safe.
 
What is going on here all of sodden there are two posts here. Probably the second person ..baconater474.. should start his awn thread so not to confuse things here. It would make things more easy for some to follow and for the people helping less confusing. This is called Hijacking a thread. LOL
I am the same person, I have my Clone locked up, he was a naughty person, LOL
 
In NO WAY is this meant to discourage you: I have to tell you that it is easier...when you know more electronics "up front".... as you have an understanding of "basics". Like...what each component does, how they behave together, how various "circuits" work (which oddly, helps you to understand how they DON'T WORK too!!).

It can take "hand holding" from others...and "patience" on BOTH sides...as you are having to be their "eyes and ears". That said, I think you are doing fine.

I too have a number of "cheap" radios that others might throw away. But to me... they have meaning.... I view them in a kind of "sentimental" way. It also means something to ME to overcome the problems that they have!

For one.... as these things get older...things like potentiometers and trimpots get squirrely! They get dirty, pitted...and they misbehave. Capacitors......fail....but they fail at different RATES....so they affect various circuits ... some more than others...AND... you run into dependencies between circuits... (you may not notice an AGC or meter problem.. until you get the IF strip working properly!). It all gets like that proverbial "onion" that you have to peel layers off of ... to get to the glory!!!

You are doing fine! Forge ahead!!!!

Hey, thanks, when I put my mind to something, I try my best to get it done. I know this radio is a dime a dozen, but this radio is under my skin, been up till 4 in the morning reading and trying to diagnose, the point I am trying to prove is that a broken radio can be repaired by anyone who puts their mind to it, wants to learn something on electronics, ( Transceivers ) CB Radio's, just accomplish a task, on something that was working one minute, then takes a crap the next. I am trying to do something that is totally different in my line of thinking, I am going to beat this thing one way or the other, with a gallon of gas or this radio will be up and running. I am sure it is something simple. I noticed that if I start touching the pots with my screwdriver, on the sides and push on this one can I start to get receive. I may want to check the solder joints, and check the core, it may be cracked, it's weird, it is like a loose wire, back to the drawing board. Take it easy, stay safe.
 
TR21, .111 volts, and no 8.5 or 9.0 volts any place. I found D9 cut, I put in a IN4739A, 9.1 volts,this is where I stopped, also green light is gone, I have RED Tx light. Still no receive, or transmit,radio keys but not power out. Getting frustrated, I need a copy of your repair manual,texting is getting old.
 
Hmmm...Well if no ones going to answer...ahemn...

TR21 in a Cobra 25, is in the NB amp section.

Cobra 25's POWER regulator is TR17

Cobra 25's RX/TX Switch uses TR16...

Cobra 25's TX Light uses TR19 while RX Light uses R96 from CB/PA switch and D16 thru MIC Jack Pin 3 to turn OFF - grounds thru D16 when Pin 3 at MIC Is Grounded for TX.

Cobra 25's D9 is Limiter Diode.
 
OK, I will do a little tracing, and see what I come up with. I will go to that section, block the next section off and trace that circuit. Been getting some use out of the Block Connectors Kit, I can block off anything I like, and go to town.
 
Yeah, I goofed on that, must have been looking at another schematic that night.
TR17 is the main VR in a 25.
It's over on the right near but in front of the audio chip.
 
OK,I just notice on my next step is that I am not producing any 16MHz for the second half of my TX. I changed the Can, still nothing, and I do have a TA7310P in case I need one. Off to the races, going to find the missing MHz.
 
OK,I just notice on my next step is that I am not producing any 16MHz for the second half of my TX. I changed the Can, still nothing, and I do have a TA7310P in case I need one. Off to the races, going to find the missing MHz.
Test point 3 I have my 16MHz, now where to set it at and tx or rx.
 
Hmmm...Well if no ones going to answer...ahemn...

TR21 in a Cobra 25, is in the NB amp section.

Cobra 25's POWER regulator is TR17

Cobra 25's RX/TX Switch uses TR16...

Cobra 25's TX Light uses TR19 while RX Light uses R96 from CB/PA switch and D16 thru MIC Jack Pin 3 to turn OFF - grounds thru D16 when Pin 3 at MIC Is Grounded for TX.

Cobra 25's D9 is Limiter Diode.
Thank you.....
 
Following @NZ8N - his Lead...
upload_2021-6-9_20-25-19.png

This is for the Uniden made style - PC-417 board.
Since your photo has what looked to be a earlier KEPC board - they "kept" Unidens' style of layout using the Hand-Drawn or "analog lazy-wander" of foil traces. The above schematic - I wanted to point out several things.

L16 drives BOTH RX and TX modes. So IC2 being the TX Mixer, may be at fault but then you have other work to do.

You should have signal ALL THE TIME on TP3 - only it shifts 455kHz when you switch between RX and TX.

IC2 can produce work, but the way that the Band Pass Filter in L18 is, may be more of a problem than any 7310 Mixer.

L18 is pretty stringent on what must work for it send any signal to L17.

So let's look at logic.

If you have RX receive, TP 3 shows 16MHz in RX mode, but in TX mode it fails - then a test that the PLL produces to self-check itself - is not being met.

That is where D12 and D18 play a role in helping the PLL do a self-check and make sure that it is producing RF.

D18 goes to the RX side, where the radio uses it's 10.240 clock, used to "down mix" the 10.7 IF - AFTER CF-2 - it should be 455kHz and doesn't need much of a signal to rectify - so it sends it thru D18 back to the PLL when the PLL is in RX mode - there is enough of a signal present so it stays "in lock" and RX works.

But D12 needs the 16MHz with the 455kHz "shift" missing (straight up 10.240 and 16.945 = 27.185 / Channel 19).to work with the 10.240 present at the main Clock back at the PLL - so it "looks" at Pin 7 of the IC TX Mixer, if you are not getting a strong signal - check the slugs and make sure nothings skewed or out of the ordinary at L18 - that is a dual core "stinker" (as I call it) for if it is not tuned right, the rest of the TX mess won't fire up and work for you - the PLL keeps pulling it down because the L18 is a very tight filter and even prevents signal passage when the 455kHz Shift exists.

At the PLL - Pin 4 is where this signal arrives, needs to be about 6 to as much as 7 volts to tell the PLL to work. If it (signal from either Mode RX or TX) is not there - The PLL "stops".

At PLL's Pin 8 - there should be NO voltage present in RX, but 7~8VDC when in TX - Refer back to This posts' Voltage Chart.

So Check the T/R pin on the PLL too - if it's not shifting - the PLL won't lock it in and put on the RED TX light and show RF power.

IC 2 even if it's not "right" you'll see something at D12 .- Because L18 it seeing 10.240 and 16MHz at TP3 - it's using TR16 to "turn on" then the Mixer works - so check TR16 AGAIN - make sure you're sending the Mixer 8 volts so it can turn on and produce the 27MHz for the rest of the strip.

Even if IC2 fails, it's when you don't have TX and yet you have a RED LED - THAT is you need to worry about IC2 and following TX strip down stream having bad parts.

Now, your message sounded a little confused, so let's stop here and I'll let you explain the rest...
 

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