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Crude frequency alignment of SSB using only a second radio....

I could get Fired for this...

But it's the other guy you worry about...

IN every case for this or any SSB radio - you'll need to use a simple technique to tweak - using a simple eyeglass screwdriver.


Which McKinley you got? EU or USA?


Because what I'm trying to help you with, is subjective, because if you're not comfortable with doing this check yourself - get rid of the radio and use one with a direct access tunable VCO for this instead. Don't want you to be shown a technique that gets you in over your head and expen$ive repair due to the mal adjustment that needs re-adjustment and re-alignment

You're saying it's a little off, when you have to find the coil that makes this a little off...

Being the safest way, is to simply take the metal tip of that small eyeglass tool and find the coil - in TX mode - that CHANGES the tuning - which way up or down - doesn't matter - just find that coil that changes the tuning when you put that tool tip in - don't turn the slug - just try to find the coil that is causing this change you don't like. The one that changes it's frequency due to the change in the inductance (additional metal the tool tip provides) is the one that AFFECTS the mode you're in. That is the one you'll need to mark.

So to help...

  • set up the system
    • Set your channel on the RECEIVER side to the 38 LSB
    • Set the McKinley to same channel same mode
Key up your Mckinely - into a dummy load for safety - and simply hold the mic and keyup and apply some simple "ambient" audio - music from a tabletop radio or whatever and just - gently - insert the tool tip into those three slugs and listen - not to tune, but to LISTEN for the change in tune thru that other RECEIVER - that change is due to the proximity of the tip into the tuning coils in the strip used for the IF section to SEND the signal out - it needs an IF signal to even start the mixing process - but you have to find the one to tune or at least SHOW them which one to "tweak".

Now, if you have the STOMACH for this, you can then use the Receive radio for the REFERECES in both AM mode - and LSB mode for the McKinley.

Only thing? You tune the McKinley - in AM Mode - but leave the RECEIVER radio in the LSB mode....

Set up like above, but the McKinley in now in AM mode - listen to that audio in the RECEIVER - ADJUST RECEVIER's Clarifier to "beat" (best sound) for the McKinley AM mode to hear the LSB side of the McKinley's AM side for the best most clarity in the RECEIVER.

Unkey and put McKinley unto LSB mode again...

Repeat key up audio and knowing which slug, you can use a ceramic tip tool to alter - tweak that coil to "beat" (Best sound) like you did for AM side only you're leaving the McKinley alone and just tweaking the IF section to bring the audio in line or more resonate.
This is from a PC-122 - a radio from a PREVIOUS
generation that used PLL-IF and AF-IF to mix together
View attachment 56847
  • In the above photo - the older radios used pairings One IF from the PLL one AF -IF from the Balanced modulator. But both "pairs" of coils worked for only one mode and only one did the Audio the other did the PLL IF​
  • You work with the Audio - leave the PLL alone​
It's that simple - but to do it right you need to know which coil - by identifying it thru the metal tool tip test trick - then tweaking that coil to re-align the mode for best sound thru the RECEIVER.
GENIUS!!!!!!!!
 
  • Haha
Reactions: Handy Andy
After Andy and Kopcicle's last post, I believe I'm far better off just letting people with the right tools take care of it for me. Thanks for the excellent info.

Brother I'll tell you this. The first time can be the worst or the first. Thing is it's the first time. I strongly suggest that you attempt any alignment with an elmer at your elbow or at least on the phone.

Even if you never graduate to frequent alignments at least do it a few times as a right of passage at the very least or better yet as a learning experience.

I'm not suggesting you tear into your $1K general coverage daily driver with a golden screwdriver. I am recommending that you do this to gain a better understanding of radio.

If I had listened to this bit of advice early on in my journey I'm sure I would have turned out much better work. As it was it took several decades before I took the service manual as good information and recommendations rather than depending on the calibration of my equipment and putting everything on the nose to a fraction of a Hertz.

You've got this !
 
After Andy and Kopcicle's last post, I believe I'm far better off just letting people with the right tools take care of it for me. Thanks for the excellent info.
My thought's exactly. Adjusting a little rf power and modulation is one thing but frequency looks a little more in depth for someone without training and experience. I could go thru the hassle of dealing with the factory rep. again trying to make excuses and pushing the blame on someone else like they did the 1st time I returned it. I have to wait for my buddy to be available so we can test it for modulation since I turned it down a little. It's tuff testing a radio when no-one in your area is on the radio or skip isn't rolling
 
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Reactions: 144inBama
I would just like to thank Kopcicle for posting that info on the IF passband for the heathkit radio again.

reading that the first time made me re-evaluate my methods, and i can say now with confidence that my alignments are better and sound better than when i used to try and get a radio "correct" using math and frequency counts.
(edit to add that i still use a calibrated freq counter to set the PLL on freq, but the IF is much more effectively tuned using your ears)

I promise those of you who are looking to learn about this, having the perspective of what kop posted is the key to making a good sounding SSB radio.

we have to remember that the filters made for our radios are made by the thousand and they will not all be exactly the same.
LC
 

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