"Let me ask a few questions so I might understand?
Do you have a vhf/uhf antenna hooked up?
Have you made any contacts at all or have you just heard other stations?
What are you using to check swr? is it the built in meter on the radio?
Who assembled the coax? Is shield soldered to the PL-259 "ground"?
Is the centers soldered the PL=259? "
No VHF/UHF antenna hooked up, except when I tested the VHF/IHF side and made plenty of contacts on my usual repeaters
Made only UHF/VHF contacts , only heard HF
SWR is checked with the LDG at100 pro Auto tuner with built in power meter and swr meter and also I have the swr meter up on the radio but that seems kinda useless
All Coax is bran new out of the box. Besides the homemade center fed I made which is no longer in use, I didn’t solder a thing. Its all bran new factory conntection
And I am in the HF antenna port, I promise. Which is not labeled by yaesue, which I think is dumb. You have to look at the book. They don’t even write ANT1 ANT2 Kinda bad on yasues parts
ff
Here's something else to think about.
That fire escape, being metal, is going to affect any antenna 'near' it. That 'near' is relative, and not necessarily 'bad'. For one thing, it's going to make any antenna sort of directional, at least in some directions, usually less signal from the 'side' the fire escape is on. Sort of a 'reflector'.
That mass of metal is also going to act as a "ground" to some extent. Which isn't necessarily 'bad' at all. If you can use that characteristic in a beneficial manner, do so, why not!? The 'flip-side' to that is that mass of metal then becomes part of the antenna, will radiate, and means you've got an antenna -that- close to other people's electronics. (See where that could be a problem in an apartment building?)
As antennas go, the best producer of a radiated signal has both resonance and impedance matching. The less of either of those characteristics means less efficiency and radiated signal. Then there are antennas used on multiple bands. They always will be less 'efficient', but will certainly work. How well they work just depends on what you are willing to 'give up' on those non-resonant bands. (I've found that I can give up quite a bit of that 'best' stuff and still have a very usable antenna.)
With the 'end fed' antenna that you have, and from reading it's advertisement, I figure the manufacturer is using the feed line as the 'other half' of that antenna, the counterpoise, 'ground', whatever you want to call it. While that can certainly be done, it always has complications of one sort or another. One of those complications is that the usable SWR bandwidth of that antenna is going to be fairly narrow. Another is that the positioning of that feed line is going to get sort of 'picky'. There are so many variations to that, that there are probably several 'ways' of going about it, and I'm not about to make any recommendations as to how to go about it! Play with it and see?
And here are some observations about the manufacturer's line of antennas. All of them are only variations of things that other manufacturers have had for years. Some of them are only 'good' for very particular situations! Some, you couldn't pay me to use because of experience with them! You will notice that there are no performance specifications given, they leave that to your imagination. (The ones copied from 'B&W' are perfect examples. Don't just put those down, go wash your hands!)
Being one of those naturally 'cheap' people, I don't like buying antennas, I'd rather make them. That means that I very seldom ever have the 'best' antennas, but they 'work' well enough (for me?). One suggestion would be to use that @#$ fire escape as the "groundplane" (hate that word), and a 1/4 wave as the radiating thingy. That's fairly easy for the higher HF bands, and not impossible for the lower ones. I think you might be surprised at the results.
Good luck with it.
- 'Doc
All of the above is a 'generalization'. That means that there are a number of variations possible with any of it, and never always 'correct' as stated.
Doc thanks for all the comments and disclosure. There is alot of theory behind what you just said. Although im very appreciative of everything you wrote, im not exactly sure how it is going to help me. I have heard already from numerous people that store bought antennas are lame and you would rather build your own ect ect. That's awesome, however a store bought antenna is what i have and what i bought. Now im stuck with making it work. And that is what im trying to gather suggestions on. I heard the same comments from packrat earlier . ' how im foolish for buying store bought antennas" and loads of other non useful comments in first post in this thread that i just let roll of my back. ( assuming that a freindly ham would not actually intend to insult another) Im all for constructive criticism but that isn't really it in my humble opinion.
So out of all of that all i got was go back to your old dipole you made.
I have attached a picture below as to why it was discarded
And use the fire escape as a ground plane.
But no suggestions were given? Isn't that the point of this?
That would be similar to me telling someone to build me a rocket ship. With nothing further
Both which are legit thoughts and i appreciate the ideas greatly
However, my old dipole is made of bare copper wire which scares me a bit. Can Bare copper wire with RF start a fire? Im assuming so seeing as it can burn your hand. Can Speaker wire be used? At least the black jacketed wire looks like plastic .
My dipole was most likely full of flaws. It was the first antenna i ever built hence to eliminate possible issues i discarded it.
Here is a drawing of the original center fed I made, and some notes as to why it was discarded
Any further comments, suggestions or CORRECTIVE criticism I am extremely grateful for
It was like having 70+ dB of attenuation in line. 
