Elecraft K3 Build Photo Diary

[Moleculo]

I received the rig back several days ago, but didn't have time to open it up to see for myself the details of the repair until last night (dove hunting opened, which took priority!).

In this pic, you can see the trace that was burnt by shorting the case screws to 12v. It's the trace that is directly below C197 and D30. The grey wire is the jumper added by Elecraft customer service.

This is the FET (Q2) that needed to be replaced. This is what was causing the rig to not power off:

Because I never was able to perform the VCO calibration and finish the configuration of the rig, customer service went ahead and performed the VCO calibration, Reference Oscillator calibration, TX gain calibration for 5W on all bands, watt meter calibration, S-meter calibration, as well as 1mW TX gain calibration in the event that I ever purchase the transverter output option. They also configured all the roofing filters and set up the available modes of operation for each filter, including a screen print of what was done.

They also installed 3 updates, one of which included the latest firmware. When I got the rig back it was ready to go as a 10 watt transceiver.

 

[Moleculo]

Installing the KPA3-100 watt upgrade

Now that I have a fully functional 10 watt Elecraft K3, it is time to install the 100 watt power amplifier option in the rig. This is really a very simple process and here's what it looks like:

After removing the covers, you have to first remove the jumper block you installed at the very beginning for the 10 watt base rig and replace it with PA IO board.

Next you assemble the fans, grills and circuit breaker onto the supplied panel:

Not shown is the testing of the fans. You simply turn the rig on, activate a test menu item and the fans should start spinning. Now we're ready to plug the 100 watt board in. This is a close up view of the PA:

Since I had already installed the shield, all I had to do is plug the board into the PA IO and screw it down on the to shield tabs.

Now the fan panel is attached, the fans are plugged back in and the PA power wires are attached to the circuit breaker.

After this step, you turn the rig on, enable the PA, perform a temperature sensor calibration (you need a room thermometer) and perform the 50 watt TX Gain calibration. You can do the 50 watt gain calibration using your PC, but I elected to do it manually so I can understand how to do it.

Lastly, I decided to check the internal watt meter calibration. I hooked up my Bird43P with a 50 watt element and checked the rig's front panel stated power output against the meter. I found that the output was about 15 watts higher than what the K3 panel reported. This is another calibration point that is available through the front panel. I simply followed the instructions and performed the Higher Power 50 Watt calibration (which only took a few minutes) and got the rig dialed in so that the power output shown on the K3 matched what the meter reported.

My 100 watt Elecraft K3 build is complete! I'll start a new thread over the next few days where I'll comment on some of the features of this very interesting rig.

 

[Doc Feelgood]

Very good you have it up and running, I must say even though the repairs are fully functional, they are not what I would have expected.

Mainly referencing the replacement of Q2, very unprofessional looking, blobby connections, messy flux all over, maybe improper tools, or newbie to SMT work.


I like the NPC looking addition of the resistor/diode, LOL, maybe they are contracting out to the good old CBDoc

 

[Captain Kilowatt]

Because I never was able to perform the VCO calibration and finish the configuration of the rig, customer service went ahead and performed the VCO calibration, Reference Oscillator calibration, TX gain calibration for 5W on all bands, watt meter calibration, S-meter calibration, as well as 1mW TX gain calibration in the event that I ever purchase the transverter output option. They also configured all the roofing filters and set up the available modes of operation for each filter, including a screen print of what was done.

They also installed 3 updates, one of which included the latest firmware. When I got the rig back it was ready to go as a 10 watt transceiver.

So what you're saying is that after the initial mishap and return for service, customer service started having doubts about your ability and took pity on you.










Just kidding. I am jealous.

 

[office888]

Thank you for posting this Moleculo.

It was a good read!

 

[N0NB]

I sent the following to Tim in an email and he asked that I post it to the forum as well.

On a random Web search last weekend on the K3, as I'm awaiting arrival mine on Monday, I found a link to your excellent build pictorial thread and your operational review. It is all quite helpful and is whetting my appetite!

As I was grabbing the latest manuals off the Elecraft site to get familiar I downloaded the assembly errata manual dated September 23. In it they now instruct to insert the screws for the feet that you had trouble with from the inside out and allow the nuts to be in the recess of the foot. I wonder if they made that change as a result of your experience. I thought I'd pass that along to you in case you want to mention it in the build thread.

Tim replied, in part:

I just opened up the build manual and double checked my instructions and the pictures on page 57 and 58 show to install the screws the way I did it. That means they changed the procedure because of my problem.

It's good to know that they are very response on user discovered issues.

My K3 is supposed to be here tomorrow. It has been sitting at the UPS depot in Manhattan, KS since Friday night--so near, yet so far! I ordered it with the 100 Watt PA, 1 PPM TCXO, 2.1 kHz, 500, and 200 Hz filters. In the future I plan to install the tuner and likely the second receiver. Some day I may have to add the transverter interface and a P3. In the mean time I'm just excited to get it together and get it on the air and be familiar with it by Sweepstakes next month.

 

[N0NB]

One thing I noted when inventorying my parts was that the supplied power cord did not have the Anderson Power Pole connectors attached. Now, this is not a problem for me as I have the West Mountain crimper. I've not read that anyone has a particular gripe about this but it has been noted unless crimped correctly the terminals can be quite difficult to install in the APP shell.

 

[Moleculo]

I actually ruined the Anderson Power Poles supplied when I first did it because I don't have the proper crimper (I need to get one). And the Anderson Power Poles are IMPOSSIBLE to find anywhere. Fortunately a fellow ham had a few extra that they loaned me.

 

[KOBO]

A really fascinating thread.

Thanks for the detailed postings.

 

[packrat]

Very good you have it up and running, I must say even though the repairs are fully functional, they are not what I would have expected.

Mainly referencing the replacement of Q2, very unprofessional looking, blobby connections, messy flux all over, maybe improper tools, or newbie to SMT work.


I like the NPC looking addition of the resistor/diode, LOL, maybe they are contracting out to the good old CBDoc

I have to agree! Pretty nasty looking repairs. Joints look cold to me. You would think that with the supposed quality of service and product you are paying thru the nose for, they would have just replaced the entire board. The repairs don't bode well for long term customer satisfaction!

Just saying....

 

[Happy_Hamer]

I must say even though the repairs are fully functional, they are not what I would have expected.

Mainly referencing the replacement of Q2, very unprofessional looking, blobby connections, messy flux all over, maybe improper tools, or newbie to SMT work.

I have to agree! Pretty nasty looking repairs. Joints look cold to me. You would think that with the supposed quality of service and product you are paying thru the nose for, they would have just replaced the entire board. The repairs don't bode well for long term customer satisfaction!

Just saying....

Well, I finally read this entire build, better late then never.

I am just guessing here, I would ASSume another board was offered, but costly since the mistake was Mole's???

I would also assume the option of a "cheap" repair was given as well?

But the solder job on the FET looks like something I would do, (read; I shake like a leaf when I solder the smt stuff )

I have been waiting for the KX3 to be released and again, I ASSume, true to Elecraft's style, they will offer it in a kit?

I am deciding if I just want to buy it factory built and review the performance here or or buy a kit, build it (hopefully error free) and do the review here.

Nice job Mole.

 

[Happy_Hamer]

Have you used this with the Ameritron amp?

 

[Moleculo]

Have you used this with the Ameritron amp?

I've used it with both an Ameritron AL-800H tube amp and an Ameritron ALS-1300 transistor amp. I've had no problems with the K3 with either of these setups.

 

[nomibucha]

this is very informative i really get very much information about it