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Gone nuts

Why not repair the trace at the break? It seems to me like we are skipping plan A and going straight to Zulu. What would be the plan if the soldering repair were to fail?
Yes. It takes a lot of skill to repair the break using the over lay with solder. The jumper is easier and not as hard to do/
 
Thanks guys, been looking at it a bit more Inc the opposite side even took xray kinda images with light going through it.

I dont see a need to do anything at the moment, it seems to work ok, but that is a weak and perhaps stupid reasoning if one ever existed. Long are the days when putting back stuff from a repair or teardown resulted in spare parts being left over with little to no effect. Tolerances are min i believe these days.

I'm no schematic pro, but it doesn't look like that trace leads to anything. Check out the pics.

I was examining it much further on both sides of PCB.

IMG_20170603_232708.jpg IMG_20170603_232708.jpg IMG_20170603_232908.jpg IMG_20170603_232939.jpg
 
limeybastard,

i agree that it looks like that trace goes nowhere. it could be something that only gets used in certain versions of this chassis. CB manufacturers like to make one board and then populate them differently depending on the options available for different versions.

the little tiny holes at each end of that trace are actually teeny tiny copper tubes that connect the bottom of the PC board to the top of the PC board.
so if you can clearly see that nothing is connected to those holes on the top or on the bottom of the PC board then you are all good.

just so you know, you didn't have to use a soldering iron to remove that part.
you could have just used a small pair of diagonal cutters and cut the actual body of the part. yes, this is a bit 'hacky', and i normally wouldn't recommend people do this, but in your particular situation seeing as how you were determined to do it yourself; i would have offered this up as a simple solution.

to those who hate me for even mentioning this method; do you know how the pros remove SMT electrolytic caps most of the time?
ill give you a hint...
they don't use a soldering iron.
LC
 
limeybastard,

i agree that it looks like that trace goes nowhere. it could be something that only gets used in certain versions of this chassis. CB manufacturers like to make one board and then populate them differently depending on the options available for different versions.

the little tiny holes at each end of that trace are actually teeny tiny copper tubes that connect the bottom of the PC board to the top of the PC board.
so if you can clearly see that nothing is connected to those holes on the top or on the bottom of the PC board then you are all good.

just so you know, you didn't have to use a soldering iron to remove that part.
you could have just used a small pair of diagonal cutters and cut the actual body of the part. yes, this is a bit 'hacky', and i normally wouldn't recommend people do this, but in your particular situation seeing as how you were determined to do it yourself; i would have offered this up as a simple solution.

to those who hate me for even mentioning this method; do you know how the pros remove SMT electrolytic caps most of the time?
ill give you a hint...
they don't use a soldering iron.
LC
You are correct we use things like this. Focused hot air works better. No trace damage.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tenma-Air-R...605276?hash=item2823d1361c:g:N6cAAOSw4GVYHjX8
 
Yep that trace doesnt do anything. Hopefully, i didnt damage anything using continuity on my hqnd held meter across two of those resistors. I doubt it.

Now need to get it hardwired to vehicle battery, anyone recommend a good hook up kit?

IMG_20170604_004308.jpg
 

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