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Grant XL very low AM tx

I would rather them tell me it doesn't work, and give the symptoms. When they pull that crap, they are doing it to get the hopes up of people that want whatever it is, and hope they will get it and it works, just so they can get the price up.
 
Funny that they know how collectibles' work. Grants and Cobras from that era - even with cosmetic damage- sell well.

It's the actual photos - that don't help their situation...

Good to see it was working again.

Word of caution for the rest of us too - that part is mounted with what looks like an extra "screw" to the exterior. An untrained eye can make a big costly mistake trying to do surgery on these older chassis.

So if someone that is new to this radio tries to open it - loosens all the bolts nuts and screw trying to open the cover - can do this kind of stuff to the radio and wind up ruining it before it ever leaves the seller- so we need to retighten all that hardware to make sure it doesn't "pop" the Final and Driver without too much effort due to loose hardware caused by the sellers' (note plural) that may have tried to open her up and take a look see...

:+> Andy <+:
 

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You just reminded me of one thing I noticed about that Snake Radio Customs guy. On the one video I watched, he mentioned replacing all the plastic screws with black plastic screws. It just hit me why he might do that, but it really isn't necessary inside a radio. Black plastic screws are usually UV rated, so they won't become brittle as easy in direct sunlight. Where the screws inside a radio don't get direct sunlight, I see no benefit.
 
All plastics will get brittle over time, but I got the impression that he was touting the black plastic screws as being better than regular plastic screws. I have no reason to believe that black plastic lasts longer than other plastic screws if they are not exposed regularly to UV.
 
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The head will shear off of a plastic screw when we need to replace a part held in with one.

Usually.

Even if the screw seems undamaged, we replace it anyway, just so it won't "pop" off the new part and let it come loose from the heat sink.

Cheap insurance.

Got them from FleaBay.

73
 
The head will shear off of a plastic screw when we need to replace a part held in with one.

Usually.

Even if the screw seems undamaged, we replace it anyway, just so it won't "pop" off the new part and let it come loose from the heat sink.

Cheap insurance.

Got them from FleaBay.

73
That may be your experience. I can't say otherwise. All I know is that I have not had any real trouble with plastic or nylon screws in my work. Occasionally they will break, but I've had maybe 5 of them break on me over the last 15 years, and I deal with them fairly regularly, albeit on things other than transceivers. My experience with transceivers is much more limited than with other electronics, but I can't see why transceivers would be more susceptible to the screws breaking than say in a television.

I'm all for preventative measures. I learned long ago that it is often cheaper to use quality parts, and replace working but questionable parts with quality parts, than it is to do warranty work. I also don't like to spend money I don't have to, and don't like to charge the customer for parts they don't need. Therefore, just like my satellite installers need an explanation as to what mechanism causes non-black coax to fail outside, but not inside, leading to my requirement to use black coax on the outside of buildings, I would like a mechanism which would cause plastic or nylon screws in radios to go bad in radios, but not televisions.
 
In the products I work with we have some devices that use a nylon nut/bolt.
They are easy to cross thread, break, bend, etc.
Along with the replacement device we ship a new nut, bolt, and washer.
It's just coded that way in the parts system.

Trying to determine if the field tech is going to break or damage it during removal (they are thread locked) it's just easier, faster, and improves the reliability of the repair if we send new hardware.

Now, the Grant AM regulator.
I have seen a lot of those smothered with SC12N/SC121 (also known as Sony Bond)

That stuff over time becomes conductive. It absorbs moisture and starts to break down.
That is the "glue" you see the repair guys on YouTube removing from Uniden Chassis radios. I don't know if it was Sony Bond back in the 1970s, it was probably an older compound but the stuff is horrible just the same.

And yes, I have seen modern radios, Like radios made in 2018, with Sony Bond in them.

Edit: And destroys parts with corrosion.
 
I got a minty low 1990's Cobra 25 WX off of the bay with no TX/RX audio. Found the plastic screw head popped off that held the YD1022 chip. Yup.... she cratered a hole. The search still ongoing for replacement IC...... sigh......
 
IF you have the original insulator spacer, just use some 70% alcohol wipes to clear off that spacer so you can refresh with new paste to prevent cross over contamination and replace the old paste with the CPU stuff -
 
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  • @ BJ radionut:
    EVAN/Crawdad :love: ...runna pile-up on 6m SSB(y) W4AXW in the air
    +1
  • @ Crawdad:
    One of the few times my tiny station gets heard on 6m!:D
  • @ Galanary:
    anyone out here familiar with the Icom IC-7300 mods
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    7300 very nice radio, what's to hack?