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Has anyone had any luck taking apart the base coil on a wilson antenna?

loosecannon

Sr. Member
Mar 9, 2006
4,505
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Hi all,

i have a wilson 5000 antenna just sitting in the garage because of a bad solder connection on the coil.

i would like to crack it open and fix it, but years back i tried to get an old wilson 1000 base coil open and damn near destroyed the thing in the process.

so does anyone have any secrets for getting these open without ruining them?

maybe heat?
a certain solvent?
repeated hammer banging at just the right interval in order to cause resonance to shake it open?

thanks for any and all tips and advice.
LC
 
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thanks for the replies guys.

I need to actually crack open the plastic shell.
the shell itself gets lowered over the actual base that contains the coil and the SO-239, and gets glued on.

I had seen that thread before, and was hoping that the pics still worked, but alas, they will not show up anymore.

the guy who opened up the one in the thread used a thin blade and just kept going over and over it getting the blade in a little deeper each time.

i was hoping someone had already tried a heat gun on one, and could tell me whether or not im going to melt the shell before the adhesive softens or not.

so far it looks like im going to be using an exacto knife and a lot of patience.

fingers crossed for that magic response from someone who figured out a cool guy way to do this!
LC
 
well just for funsies i had a look at the patent sheet for the wilson base loaded antennas
and thought i would post a link and some info that might be useful to anyone looking to build their own base loaded CB antenna.
not really what i was looking for, but cool nonetheless.

https://patents.google.com/patent/US4882591

and here are a few paragraphs with the specs of the coil itself:

Applicant has constructed and tested an antenna of the type illustrated in FIGS. 1-9. The coil 12 is formed of about 34 inches of No. 10 copper wire (about 0.10 inch diameter) having a coil diameter of about 1.86 inches (as measured across the centers of the wire), and has about 5 7/8ths turns. The spacing between turns (about 0.05 inch) is about half the wire thickness, and the ratio of length (height) to diameter of the coil is approximately 0.55. Each turn of the coil (and the space between adjacent turns) has a circumferential length of 5.84 inches, and only about one-third inch of that length of space between adjacent 360° turns is occupied by the dielectric material of the coil support. As described above, most of the space between turns of the coil is occupied by air rather than solid material, and most of the volume within the coil is occupied by air rather than solid material.

The Q factor, which denotes the overall efficiency of the antenna is given by the equation Q=X/r, where X=reactance and r = series resistance. Distributed capacitance lowers the reactance X; minimizing inter-turn capacitance results in an increased X and therefore an increased Q. The resistance r was lowered by coating the wire with heavy silver plating, which is especially useful because most current at high frequencies travel in the surface region of a conductor. Similarly, the conductors 82, 86, and 90 (FIG. 6) which connect to the coil were heavily silver plated. Solder connections were made by silver solder.

FIGS. 10 and 11 illustrate another antenna 150 somewhat similar to that of FIGS. 1-9, but wherein a coil support 152 is formed in the cover 154 of the frame. The coil support includes a plurality of fins 156-159 radiating inwardly from a tubular part 153 of the cover 154, and having grooves 160 that closely surround the coil windings. This arrangement also results in most of the space between adjacent turns of the coil being unoccupied by solid (or liquid) material. Also, as in the case of the embodiment shown in FIG. 8, more than 75% of the area within the coil is unoccupied by solid material.


just thought someone here might find that useful someday.
LC
 
thanks for finding that video Marconi.

at least now i know someone has tried with the heat gun already.

looks like those two round tabs get glued and there is really no way to access them from outside the coil.

maybe the 5000 is a little different on the inside.
LC
 
thanks for the replies guys.

I need to actually crack open the plastic shell.
the shell itself gets lowered over the actual base that contains the coil and the SO-239, and gets glued on.

I had seen that thread before, and was hoping that the pics still worked, but alas, they will not show up anymore.

the guy who opened up the one in the thread used a thin blade and just kept going over and over it getting the blade in a little deeper each time.

i was hoping someone had already tried a heat gun on one, and could tell me whether or not im going to melt the shell before the adhesive softens or not.

so far it looks like im going to be using an exacto knife and a lot of patience.

fingers crossed for that magic response from someone who figured out a cool guy way to do this!
LC
How about a hot exacto knife?
 
I tried this years ago and I got into it but it was an absolute train wreck when I was done, a true Frankenstein. However... I fixed it. It was still ugly as farting in church though but it worked.

So good luck to you my friend. This is why we should start a movement forcing all states to clear tree limbs from hanging over all roads, highways & streets. I lived on a street with a low limb, always beating up my antenna. So I asked the city to cut it back and long story short, they wouldn’t. So one morning bout 4am when I left for work, I picked up that 21ft Ox Body and did some tree trimming for the city for free. They weren’t impressed or appreciative, guess they didn’t like me leaving the limb laying in the road. Sithin’ aint easy...

Maybe put it in a lathe and cut it open from the bottom?
 
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thanks for the replies guys!

these are all good and viable ideas, but i think i am most excited to try autotuner's idea first.

you see, while getting the seal around the circumference loose will be one chore, there are those two interior round tabs that will also have glue on them and can't be accessed with a tool.

my conspiracy brain tells me that they did this on purpose to keep people from being able to repair the coils, thus increasing sales.
you know, planned obsolescence and all:


LC
 
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Wafer disks on an arbor, thin cutting blades for dia grinder. Or a similar Metabo grinder, more like 6" grinder. There are also thin grinding blades for a 4" grinder from Harbor Freight, Lowes, or HD. The blades are only 1/8" thk, also can get them at welding supply store. We use these all the time to cut pipe, structural steel, rebar, tubing, and fingers if not used properly. This is how I would attack it. Maybe too strong of a word, but going along you desired cut line all the way around will give you the grove to follow. This is what we do with pipe. Keeping the blade moving back and forth along the line and watching your depth while rotating. Don't just chop into it, the blades don't like that and can bind up, causing much pain when they come apart, but it's plastic and as long as you keep moving back and forth in straight line all the way around you should do just fine. Once you get through the shell then you can dig a little at the two epoxied studs in there.

That reciprocating tool HomerBB posted is also a good idea. There is a semicircular blade that would be great to use in the fashion described above. I have and use both tools. The latter one I have is a Ridged multi tool and that blade works just like a cast saw a the doctors office. If you have a 4" angle grinder buying some blades and the attachment nuts would be cheaper and easier. Just be gentile and let the blade cut.

If you accidently tear the thing up all is not lost. Possibly use a PVC end Cap and some PVC pipe for a cover, the base could be a PVC Bushing. No glue, drill for dowels/pegs, or small screws. Then you have a one of a kind. A Sewer Pipe Antenna. :LOL:
 
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I like where this thread is going lol.

'if it breaks, F it. just make another one!' you guys think like me.

I own all the tools you guys were talking about, but if im willing to lose the material that would surely get lost in the cuts, then i might as well just cut the thing around the outside and then glue it back together.
I still might end up doing just that.

the last time i tried this, it was a wilson 1000 and i got less than halfway through the careful surgery before i damaged it good, and i ended up cutting the shell into pieces and tossing the coil in the parts box.

i was able to screw a 3/8" female adapter on to the base, and using some epoxy and some cardboard tubing, i made a mount for my 102" whip that worked with my wilson roof mount.
no, i never tried to drive around with it on the roof LOL.

thanks for all the inspiration so far.
LC
 
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