I know that and mentioned that is the only thing I know what is being added other than the wire. I'm sure some of it is labor but damn......320 business days later my radio will ship?The price difference is one has a amp attached to it for more power output.
You can pay $50 for a video of him doing your radioI guess if you want to make sure everything is actually being done?
-
You can now help support WorldwideDX when you shop on Amazon at no additional cost to you! Simply follow this Shop on Amazon link first and a portion of any purchase is sent to WorldwideDX to help with site costs.
Help a confused "noob" understand a few things.
- Thread starter CrashRecovery
- Start date
320 business days = way too dang long
Get a Anytone AT-6666 and you’ll be good to go.
Get a Anytone AT-6666 and you’ll be good to go.
Been looking at them since you recommended them. Seems like a better alternative to the stryker.320 business days = way too dang long
Get a Anytone AT-6666 and you’ll be good to go.
Now here is my noob question, shouldn't a radio be gtg right out of the box? What benefit would I see having it peaked and tuned? I've seen a few videos where caps have been swapped out. Other electronic parts have been "upgraded". Does it really matter if that stuff isn't done?
Some radios need “conversion” to operate on 11-Meter (sold as 10-Meter). Tends to be simple.
Many CB Shop customers want maximum performance from a dual final radio (why they are popular); 45-50W sometimes. 25-30W, stock.
Outside of checking factory alignment and maybe 100% modulation, I’d prefer nothing done.
That said, conversion is usually bundled with a Tune! ($30, roughly), so I just check the box.
Want more power? Add an RM ITALY KL-203 (have dead-key turned down to 1-2W). No reason to pay for a hot-running “high power” internal amp, IMO.
My pickup truck radio rig will be a President Lincoln II+ with an RM ITALY KL-7505V to run 180W or so. (Can theoretically output far more than this).
As I’ll be running a range of antennas from 5-7’ mobile (9’ stationary) — and that it’ll be a MUCH better antenna system than I can run in the Peterbilt — my best radio and best amp for mobile will be paired up with a 30A (+ headroom) power draw. (A bigger alternator with higher at-idle output in the future).
“The future” also includes the ability to run Amateur gear (not qualified yet), so the install of Antenna + Power Systems is more important than the gear chosen.
Any radio I can use — $ to $$$ as one formulation — will be at its best, is the idea.
Ask me, it’s:
1). box stock radio,
2). plus a 50-150W amp,
3). DSP Speaker, and,
4). quality 2-system install (emphasis on noise control);
5). tallest antenna reasonable (11’ for me);
6). best aftermarket mic (from a half-dozen tested)
— AM/SSB is the minimum. Any radio thus capable is then a good choice.
A Uniden 980? Great!
A Stryker 955? Great!
An XYZ Model ABC? Great!
.
Last edited:
Factory usually sets things bit lower than optimum so that a radio performs in the "Eh, good enough" range. "Peak and tune" is usually for max power out, which may not be desirable either. Heat generated vs heat dissipated and the effects that will have on component life.
Swapping out caps I think is usually done to widen the audio a bit. Which seems counter intuitive to me since you're spreading the signal out further. But then I'm a hobbyist, not an expert.
Your best bet would be to get the radio set at 100% modulation and turn the output power down a bit to let the components run cooler. If you need more power get a separate amp, and keep the heat out of your radio.
Search for Goldfinger CB Audio Mods - you'll see a plethora, tons, loads, a landfill - full of links, tips tricks and tints, to the various flavored "Colorization" of the Audio Mods done to the radio like shown above.
All done, to "widen" the frequency band pass, open up the audio band width, open up the filtered audio path that this radio has, just for more spectral artifacts and more noise for others to listen to on the other channels next to the frequency this guy is on.
So you "widen" the audio signals bandwidth, what you DON'T gain, is everyone else's radio will hear him sound like - meaning that they aren't all set up to HEAR what that radio will produce.
For some, if you think about it, many will hear a radio that although is winder in bandwidth, sounds weaker because their radios' own Reception bandwidth is narrow, so they only hear the narrow spectrum of that same signal - not all the information contained within the signal is conveyed into the listeners ear.
Even if they could, widen their radios own receive, a lot more noise also arrives in, from that extra width of spectrum that is; not just signal - it's including the ambient noise the signal has with it in the listeners receive.
This is AM Sir, not FM - you have carrier - not capture ratio...
A good example of this would be to listen to an FM station in STEREO, then press the MONO switch - you lose a lot of ambiance and fidelity - it's lost because of the mono-phased, reception.
Another way is to use a LOUDNESS button on the same stereo - using it, you get some Bass and Treble enhancement - then turn it off - everything seems to sound more more "flat".
Unless you like to play music, the effort is not always worth the price in the performance hits, like heat and power.
Yes, I said power - and heat - both are a necessary result of the effort.
Takes a lot more energy input into the radio to push watts with a larger spectrum of information than a narrow filter band pass one does.
Put this into your perspective of being the listener of, for and on, those other CB's.- you only hear what YOUR radio will pass thru it's filters, so if your looking for high-performance sound quality - look elsewhere, Become a DJ, or even work at a radio station - you'll get a better respect for the equipment used.
So if I'm not worried about getting HD audio and splattering other channels with noise I should just consider asking for a peak and tune. I just want simple clean audio with the radio working properly. Like it's been said power = heat and I don't need that. Might just pick up the radio and try it out before I go and have somebody fiddle with it.
Damn Skippy you can. Out of all the radios I've ever owned only one has been tuned. Im not the type that goes out and buys a radio just because. If the radio worked I left it alone. The one that got tuned was part of a package deal. Traded some rims and tires for the radio work and a 2pil fatboy. Come to think of it, I might still have it. I dont think I got rid of it. Going to have to search the shed tomorrow.
Oh oh....Fatboy? The nitrous button has been hit on this thread!!
Last time I heard the word "Fatboy" the XYL was talking to me.
The only problem with using it is the antenna system I plan to use at the moment is only good for 150 watts. Using a tuned 6666 and the fatboy would probably be more than the antenna can handle. Now if I stick with my bone stock McKinley and turn the tx power down the Larsen Nmo27 would probably survive.
On the subject of "Tunes"
My SS 9900v4 works great right out of the box.
Same for my brothers at6666, no tune necessary.
Also his new 2950dxcf was right out of the box and also worked well , he plugged in the expansion dongle and it was good to go.
The way these new radios are being built they are much more stable across the band width of the radio than days of old.
73
Jeff
My SS 9900v4 works great right out of the box.
Same for my brothers at6666, no tune necessary.
Also his new 2950dxcf was right out of the box and also worked well , he plugged in the expansion dongle and it was good to go.
The way these new radios are being built they are much more stable across the band width of the radio than days of old.
73
Jeff
Local guy got a new AT-6666 yesterday. Hooked it up on his Max-2000 antenna and set the menu functions the way he wanted them.
He started getting good reports straightaway using the factory mic. Sounded great to me on both AM and SSB no “peak & tune” required.
He started getting good reports straightaway using the factory mic. Sounded great to me on both AM and SSB no “peak & tune” required.
- No one is chatting at the moment.