Help....Could this be RF or a Reflect problem??

[Toll_Free]

i cant think of the right term, but when you can up you might be getting rf back to the main source of power which would be the charging cables. then is being absorbed through your computer system. which i think is mounted on your firewall up towards the middle.. hopefully this make sense... i am sure some1 could explain it better with the terminology. but i know i had the same problem when i had my wires running by my comp, i re-routed them an problem disappeared.

The weird thing is I can drive around town with no problems as soon as I get on the highway and do high way speeds and RPMs up. The car starts to miss and the RPM needle jumps with my modulation. I am working on grounding my hood , doors and so on.

Thanks

That points to your ignition system.

Try making sure everything dealing with your ignition is clean and bright (the metallic connections).

Also, you can try grounding both ends of your tailpipe. Usually, the exhaust system is about a quarter wave antenna. I've seen 1 to 2 s unit increases in receive and tx, since it acts like a director, it can really suck some signal down.... This isn't what I'm concerned with in your case, though.

Right at the middle of the exhaust, on your "newer" car, it has an O2 sensor. That O2 sensor will be sending a signal to your computer... If the length of pipe is resonant, that's going to be a fairly large signal, isn't it, that the computer has to reject.

Your computer in that car is next to the passenger footwell, on the side of the car. You can try covering it up, but with everything located in the back that can be drawing any power, I'd doubt that is the problem.

Try bypassing all your DC leads as well... That fatboy is a harmonic generating amp, and it has little to no DC filtering in it. .1,.01,.001 and 1mF and 10mF and 100mF caps, all paralleled, on the input to the DC leads of the amp can go a long way to killing "crap" that comes out of the amp via the DC leads.

Hope this helps. Of course, I really don't know what I'm talking about. Just ask the people who think they get a thousand watts out of a 2 pill that pulls 20 amps.

--Toll_Free

 

[Toll_Free]

Re: UPDATE: PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!

Problem FIXED. The Tri magnet mount was the problem. I put a new Wilson 5000 on the roof to see if the engine missing and bucking would continue. Guess what. It worked. The Car ran smooth up to 80MPH. I guess my old magnet mout was loosing ground or had a intermittent contact somewhere. I have to buy a new tri magnet mount.
Thanks for the help guys.

Those tri-mag mounts typically have shit for grounding.

I'd still try grounding your exhaust pipe as well. Both ends.

--Toll_Free

 

[W1R3T4P]

Re: UPDATE: PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!

Problem FIXED. The Tri magnet mount was the problem. I put a new Wilson 5000 on the roof to see if the engine missing and bucking would continue. Guess what. It worked. The Car ran smooth up to 80MPH. I guess my old magnet mout was loosing ground or had a intermittent contact somewhere. I have to buy a new tri magnet mount.
Thanks for the help guys.

That was going to be my suggestion.
If I were you, I would get the roof mount for the wilson 5000.

 

[boomer111]

My TRI MAG MOUNT WORKS REAL WELL WITH THE 10K ON THE 4 RUNNER. Getting less than 1/8 watt reflect out of a class B 2 pill. I have actually seen R50 X0. with .00 reflect coefficient. Of course that standing still although on the freeway I still see less than a 1/3 watt reflect on 100 watt key.

I got a short stinger on the 10k top loaded antenna with a 20 in. bottom shaft. Works real well.

Thanks to my friend Kale for making me it up special.

 

[Drifter]

Oh I fixed my problem a long time ago..... The problem was in my old magnet mount. I have a new Tri magnet mont for my 27" shaft single coil Predator 10K. It's all balls :shock: . I feed it with my 8 Pill volted 15 volts when Mud Ducking around and 18Volts when I'm putting my boots up a Mud Duck's behind. :twisted: LOL Anyway here is a pick of my 10K mounted on my talking Honda.

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