-
You can now help support WorldwideDX when you shop on Amazon at no additional cost to you! Simply follow this Shop on Amazon link first and a portion of any purchase is sent to WorldwideDX to help with site costs.
HENRY RADIO experimental "transformers,
- Thread starter cbkidd1
- Start date
Afternoon,
I am starting to go crazy not knowing if I can wire this for 220v ac. I am a dummy when it comes to transformers, I took some pictures of the transformer, I don't know if that would be of any help? All I am trying to do is find out where I need to place the jumper on the power connector terminal board. This is just a guess. But am I looking for two 120v wires coming off of the transformer and just using the jumper to tie them into the two ac cord +wires in order to get 220vac? I am asking because I don't want to electrocute myself, 73, Here is where the wires coming off of screws go. Starting left to right. screw-1 Brown wire from cord to red wire going to breaker switch. Screw-2 White with black strip to front of amp small black wire to ground.Screw-3 Purple wire to transformer. Screw -4 White wire with purple strip going to transformer. Screw-5 White wire going to black wire on cord. Blue wire from screw going to breaker switch. Green wire from cord going to ground on amp. Brown wire from cord going to screw. I greatly appreciate all the help on this. 73,
I am starting to go crazy not knowing if I can wire this for 220v ac. I am a dummy when it comes to transformers, I took some pictures of the transformer, I don't know if that would be of any help? All I am trying to do is find out where I need to place the jumper on the power connector terminal board. This is just a guess. But am I looking for two 120v wires coming off of the transformer and just using the jumper to tie them into the two ac cord +wires in order to get 220vac? I am asking because I don't want to electrocute myself, 73, Here is where the wires coming off of screws go. Starting left to right. screw-1 Brown wire from cord to red wire going to breaker switch. Screw-2 White with black strip to front of amp small black wire to ground.Screw-3 Purple wire to transformer. Screw -4 White wire with purple strip going to transformer. Screw-5 White wire going to black wire on cord. Blue wire from screw going to breaker switch. Green wire from cord going to ground on amp. Brown wire from cord going to screw. I greatly appreciate all the help on this. 73,
Attachments
Evening All,
When trying to find out rather the transformer in the 2kd5 I bought. Is the original one or has been replaced, Looks like on the Peter W Dahi web site.The info on the replacement transformer tells all, Here is a photo of transformer, And a copy of the replacement transformer listing, Could this be the info I was looking for all this time,
HENRY 2KD-5 POWER XFMR
T1, P/N FDN-7497, DIRECT REPLACEMENT
CORE) EI-212 X 3 STYLE #) 04 E-I LAMINATED CORE
PR) 115/230 VAC 60 HZ 1PH
S1) 0-1780-2250 VAC @ 400 MA CCS
S2) 10.0 VCT @ 15A CCS
DM) HT = 6.375 WT = 5.313 DT = 5.678 MD = 4.250 MW = 4.250
PRICE) $375.00 Plus S&H FOB Buffalo, NY WEIGHT) 29 LBS
NON-STOCKED PART - HAMMOND Part Number: PWDP13121
When trying to find out rather the transformer in the 2kd5 I bought. Is the original one or has been replaced, Looks like on the Peter W Dahi web site.The info on the replacement transformer tells all, Here is a photo of transformer, And a copy of the replacement transformer listing, Could this be the info I was looking for all this time,
HENRY 2KD-5 POWER XFMR
T1, P/N FDN-7497, DIRECT REPLACEMENT
CORE) EI-212 X 3 STYLE #) 04 E-I LAMINATED CORE
PR) 115/230 VAC 60 HZ 1PH
S1) 0-1780-2250 VAC @ 400 MA CCS
S2) 10.0 VCT @ 15A CCS
DM) HT = 6.375 WT = 5.313 DT = 5.678 MD = 4.250 MW = 4.250
PRICE) $375.00 Plus S&H FOB Buffalo, NY WEIGHT) 29 LBS
NON-STOCKED PART - HAMMOND Part Number: PWDP13121
Attachments
Okay, as if this weren't already about as clear as mud. The pic here is for a four-wire 240-Volt outlet and power cord. It would have the black, white and green wires, plus a red wire. A 4-wire socket provides two hot wires, a neutral wire that is allowed to draw current AND a green 'safety' ground wire.
Odds are that you have a 3-wire "air-conditioner" socket. The neutral blade on this socket looks like the third-prong ground on a 120-Volt plug. The two flat ones are both hot. No fourth wire on this one. But that's all, two hot wires and a ground, no actual 'neutral' wire.
Found this addendum in a different copy of the 2kd-5 manual, for a FOUR-wire 240-Volt cord.
We'll assume your 3-wire cord has a black, white and green wire.
To use it with a 3-wire cord, looks as if you hook black and white each to one far end screw, numbers 1 and 5. Shouldn't matter which, they're both "hot".
The neutral green wire should go to the chassis. It will serve as the safety ground, and won't be used to carry load current. The metal jumper clip you have will go between screw 3 and 4.
You'll need another jumper wire from screw number 2 to screw number 3. Your 3-wire power cord won't have the red wire shown in the diagram. If it did, the red wire would serve as a neutral wire to power the 120-Volt blower and the small transformer that runs the relay and lights from 120 Volts. You're not supposed to draw current from the safety-ground wire of the power cord, so doing it by jumping 2,3 and 4 together lets the two 120-Volt primary windings of the big transformer divide the 240 Volts in half to power the small transformer and blower from the 120 Volts that they need.
I have seen my share of 240-Volt "bowl" boxes that hook one side of any 120-Volt fan or small transformer directly to the chassis. They are using our safety ground also as a neutral wire to deliver power to 120-Volt devices. Not recommended.
This should be enough detail to try it and see what you get.
Best of luck and be safe.
73
Odds are that you have a 3-wire "air-conditioner" socket. The neutral blade on this socket looks like the third-prong ground on a 120-Volt plug. The two flat ones are both hot. No fourth wire on this one. But that's all, two hot wires and a ground, no actual 'neutral' wire.
Found this addendum in a different copy of the 2kd-5 manual, for a FOUR-wire 240-Volt cord.
We'll assume your 3-wire cord has a black, white and green wire.
To use it with a 3-wire cord, looks as if you hook black and white each to one far end screw, numbers 1 and 5. Shouldn't matter which, they're both "hot".
The neutral green wire should go to the chassis. It will serve as the safety ground, and won't be used to carry load current. The metal jumper clip you have will go between screw 3 and 4.
You'll need another jumper wire from screw number 2 to screw number 3. Your 3-wire power cord won't have the red wire shown in the diagram. If it did, the red wire would serve as a neutral wire to power the 120-Volt blower and the small transformer that runs the relay and lights from 120 Volts. You're not supposed to draw current from the safety-ground wire of the power cord, so doing it by jumping 2,3 and 4 together lets the two 120-Volt primary windings of the big transformer divide the 240 Volts in half to power the small transformer and blower from the 120 Volts that they need.
I have seen my share of 240-Volt "bowl" boxes that hook one side of any 120-Volt fan or small transformer directly to the chassis. They are using our safety ground also as a neutral wire to deliver power to 120-Volt devices. Not recommended.
This should be enough detail to try it and see what you get.
Best of luck and be safe.
73
Attachments
Last edited:
BJ radionut
Supporting Member and 6m addict
National Electric Code requires now if equipment has a specified Neutral connection...You are required to use a 4 wire connection...
I would suggest nothing smaller #10 SOW type cord. A Quality HUBBELL/Pass & Seymour or Leviton Hospital Grade cord connector plus a Hospital Grade 4 wire receptacle(20 amp rating)( I never use less than 30 amp rated connectors/Receptacles on any amplifier), feed with #10 or larger wire (depending on distance from panel) and a 20 or 30 amp breaker at panel...
Again SAFETY FIRST
All the Best
Gary
PS: Not doing NEC requirements and something was to happen causing a fire...
Insurance Companies may or can VOID the claim depending on how the Homeowners is set-up
I would suggest nothing smaller #10 SOW type cord. A Quality HUBBELL/Pass & Seymour or Leviton Hospital Grade cord connector plus a Hospital Grade 4 wire receptacle(20 amp rating)( I never use less than 30 amp rated connectors/Receptacles on any amplifier), feed with #10 or larger wire (depending on distance from panel) and a 20 or 30 amp breaker at panel...
Again SAFETY FIRST
All the Best
Gary
PS: Not doing NEC requirements and something was to happen causing a fire...
Insurance Companies may or can VOID the claim depending on how the Homeowners is set-up
Morning All,
I hope you had a good time at the hamfest Chris, I do have the three wire black white and green cord. Wiring the cords and plugs I have done many times. I also have the original manual with the voltage diagram. Where I was confused is with the power connector terminal board. As you can see in the photo the only thing that is visible is the striped wire wrapped around the three screws.That is what had me confused. That's all that was visible to me. The three cord wires were not there to change around. After I flipped it on it's side over the weekend. It was clear to me why they were missing, For whatever reason all three cord wires are soldered to the back side of the terminal board. Go figure, I will post pic's later on today. One other thing. I went to switch from cw to ssb mode with amp on and the hv meter went from 24000v all the way over to the right?
And it threw the 20 amp breaker in the house? I have the amp and radio on the same outlet. The Peter Dahi replacement transformer. The part number is the same as the one that is in the amp. If so then I should be able to switch the wires to get 240v I hope? Gary I Appreciate you telling use about the code and what cord I should get. I never would hear the end of it if my Homeowners Insurance would not cover the damage lol. My house was built in 1965. Thank again for all the help you guys have gave me 73,
I hope you had a good time at the hamfest Chris, I do have the three wire black white and green cord. Wiring the cords and plugs I have done many times. I also have the original manual with the voltage diagram. Where I was confused is with the power connector terminal board. As you can see in the photo the only thing that is visible is the striped wire wrapped around the three screws.That is what had me confused. That's all that was visible to me. The three cord wires were not there to change around. After I flipped it on it's side over the weekend. It was clear to me why they were missing, For whatever reason all three cord wires are soldered to the back side of the terminal board. Go figure, I will post pic's later on today. One other thing. I went to switch from cw to ssb mode with amp on and the hv meter went from 24000v all the way over to the right?
And it threw the 20 amp breaker in the house? I have the amp and radio on the same outlet. The Peter Dahi replacement transformer. The part number is the same as the one that is in the amp. If so then I should be able to switch the wires to get 240v I hope? Gary I Appreciate you telling use about the code and what cord I should get. I never would hear the end of it if my Homeowners Insurance would not cover the damage lol. My house was built in 1965. Thank again for all the help you guys have gave me 73,
Here is the mess on the back of the power connector terminal board, According to the Peter Dahi Site, There replacement transformer is P/N FDN-7497, That matches the numbers on the one inside my amp, So someone replaced it. But did not bother to wire it up correctly.
Attachments
Good Evening,
I wanted to let you guys know I wired the 2kd5 for 220vac. And I also crossed my fingers and said a prayer lol. I then turned on the power switch. The amp came to life it showing HV is 2400v left it run for 10 minutes. The tubes glow white I don't see any signs of gas build up they are clear and bright. That is all the testing I have done so far.
I wanted to let you guys know I wired the 2kd5 for 220vac. And I also crossed my fingers and said a prayer lol. I then turned on the power switch. The amp came to life it showing HV is 2400v left it run for 10 minutes. The tubes glow white I don't see any signs of gas build up they are clear and bright. That is all the testing I have done so far.